Windage tray question
#1
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Windage tray question
I'm gonna run the LS1 windage tray with the truck oil pan. Is this okay or do I need to swap to the truck windage tray? The LS1 tray covers 6 of the cylinders. Or is this necessary for strokers and clearance?
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Why not just use the truck windage tray? That's what I did when I had an LS1 in my old truck.
For some reason, I want to say that the LS1 tray wouldn't work but I can't remember exactly why. I had both but used the truck tray in the end.
For some reason, I want to say that the LS1 tray wouldn't work but I can't remember exactly why. I had both but used the truck tray in the end.
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The tray will need clearanced if you're buildinga stroker. If you use the ARP main studs, the fat washers that it comes with are suffecient though.
You will install the studs with the long ones to the outside. Once torqued, put the 2nd set of washers on the long studs on top of the nuts. Drop the windage tray down, I had to drill out the slotted holes to make them more round, and then put the lcoking nuts (silver) on to hold the windage tray in stock.
If you don't use the thick nuts in that spot , the rod bolts will put some notches in the windage tray.
You will install the studs with the long ones to the outside. Once torqued, put the 2nd set of washers on the long studs on top of the nuts. Drop the windage tray down, I had to drill out the slotted holes to make them more round, and then put the lcoking nuts (silver) on to hold the windage tray in stock.
If you don't use the thick nuts in that spot , the rod bolts will put some notches in the windage tray.
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Thanks for the info Flyer! The motor is already assembled with the LS1 windage tray. But, I need to get some the locks undone to put in the oil pick-up tube. How do I do this without screwing up anything? Also, how much do the caps need to torqued once the pick-up tube is in place? Thanks!
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The caps should already be torqueed before you ever think about the windage tray. You should only be putting nuts ON TOP of the windage tray sitting on the washers sitting on the 12pt nuts sitting on another set of washers for the main studs.
Confusing huh ....
You shouldn't be taking the main studs (12pt nuts) off to put on the windage tray or the pick up tube. The pickup tube is attatched with the windage tray nuts.
Confusing huh ....
You shouldn't be taking the main studs (12pt nuts) off to put on the windage tray or the pick up tube. The pickup tube is attatched with the windage tray nuts.
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Originally Posted by Flyer
The caps should already be torqueed before you ever think about the windage tray. You should only be putting nuts ON TOP of the windage tray sitting on the washers sitting on the 12pt nuts sitting on another set of washers for the main studs.
Confusing huh ....
You shouldn't be taking the main studs (12pt nuts) off to put on the windage tray or the pick up tube. The pickup tube is attatched with the windage tray nuts.
Confusing huh ....
You shouldn't be taking the main studs (12pt nuts) off to put on the windage tray or the pick up tube. The pickup tube is attatched with the windage tray nuts.
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#9
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Nope the "lock" you are talking about is just an allen hole used to twist the stud down into the block. Just get the proper size socket to pop off the nuts you need and then re-tq them, I dont remember the tq spec off the top of my head, I would just use some loc-tite and snug em down good since they arent a structural part.
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Nope the "lock" you are talking about is just an allen hole used to twist the stud down into the block. Just get the proper size socket to pop off the nuts you need and then re-tq them, I dont remember the tq spec off the top of my head, I would just use some loc-tite and snug em down good since they arent a structural part.