02 GMC Yukon Towing Question
10-10-2005, 12:31 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by aklim
Don't think we are going to get rid of the SUV and go to a truck anytime soon. Anyways. how much help would a set of weight distribution hitch with the sway controller
The difference between a weight carrying hitch and a weight distribution hitch is like night vs. day. I've towed a 3 horse trailer with 2 ~1,200lb horses in there and my vehicle didnt really care. (Granted i do have a autoride suspension) but in contrast i did hitch the trailer up to my OBS '00 Yukon which is just leaf springs and the rear end did not sag enough for it to be noticeable. Not to mention weight distribution hitches save some wear and tear on your rear suspension. Which is why you can tow a lot more than with just a weight carrying hitch.
EDIT: Oh to note the weight of the trailer with the cargo was approx ~8,000 lbs technically above the Denali XL's max towing of 7,200 lbs.
10-10-2005, 01:20 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by RoninsDenali
According to the makers of the TransGo shiftkits, they can be installed in your driveway with just jackstands. I have yet to attempt installing one myself but it seems quite practical.
Also a Heavy Duty transcooler will go a long way in keeping that tranny working under load.
Also a Heavy Duty transcooler will go a long way in keeping that tranny working under load.
10-10-2005, 01:55 AM
#14
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I think you are approaching dangerous territory with a trailer you expect to exceed capacity. Actual tow capacity is seldom what you the advertised number is; often, what you can tow falls well below that number.
I'll cut and paste what someone told me at another site:
I'll cut and paste what someone told me at another site:
The Max towing weight listed by the manufacturer is a "marketing number". It is the "best case scenario".
The real maximum weight you can tow is a factor of:
GCWR - Actual Curb Weight: Take the GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) of your tow vehicle (it should be printed on the sticker on the driver's door), and subtract the actual weight of your tow vehicle, as it would be during towing (include passengers, full tank of fuel, gear, etc. This will give you your actual maximum weight you can tow.
But that's not all you need. You also need to know the maximum tongue weight you can handle. For this, take the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) of your tow vehicle, and subtract the actual weight of the vehicle as outfitted above. This will give you your remaining Cargo Carrying Capacity, which is also how much you have for tongue weight. Now, the tongue weight of the trailer needs to be approximately 12-14% of the actual weight of your trailer. So, if your trailer weighs 7000lbs loaded, you need to have 840-980 pounds on the tongue.
Keep in mind, if you are carrying portable gear in your tow vehicle, you may be better off putting it in the trailer. Every 10 pounds of gear you move from the TV to the trailer will increase your max tongue weight by approximately 8.8 pounds.
IMO, if your tongue weight is over 500-600lbs, you need weight distribution. It will certainly make the TV handle much better.
Also keep in mind, the "sticker weight" of the trailer is probably inaccurate. The unloaded weight may be significantly more than what the label says.
The real maximum weight you can tow is a factor of:
GCWR - Actual Curb Weight: Take the GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) of your tow vehicle (it should be printed on the sticker on the driver's door), and subtract the actual weight of your tow vehicle, as it would be during towing (include passengers, full tank of fuel, gear, etc. This will give you your actual maximum weight you can tow.
But that's not all you need. You also need to know the maximum tongue weight you can handle. For this, take the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) of your tow vehicle, and subtract the actual weight of the vehicle as outfitted above. This will give you your remaining Cargo Carrying Capacity, which is also how much you have for tongue weight. Now, the tongue weight of the trailer needs to be approximately 12-14% of the actual weight of your trailer. So, if your trailer weighs 7000lbs loaded, you need to have 840-980 pounds on the tongue.
Keep in mind, if you are carrying portable gear in your tow vehicle, you may be better off putting it in the trailer. Every 10 pounds of gear you move from the TV to the trailer will increase your max tongue weight by approximately 8.8 pounds.
IMO, if your tongue weight is over 500-600lbs, you need weight distribution. It will certainly make the TV handle much better.
Also keep in mind, the "sticker weight" of the trailer is probably inaccurate. The unloaded weight may be significantly more than what the label says.
10-13-2005, 11:49 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by aklim
What is the most cost efffective way to tow that much? Cam? Supercharger? Gears?
You really need upgraded sway bars, trailing arms, springs, shocks, brakes....and power. It's more than just a few more ponies.
10-14-2005, 01:07 AM
#17
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Alright, I have a toy hauler weighing in at 4000 +- lbs. dry. You add 1500lbs in (4) atvs, about 1000lbs in liquid, and about 1000lbs misc! TOTAL = 7500lbs. I have the 1500 crew cab w/ 5.3 and 3.73's. Trailer has weight distribution hitch, and electric brakes.
Now, when towing to Glamis, which is relatively flat and a few long not so steep grades the truck pulled just fine I could cruise at about 60-65 with about 10mpg.
I went to pismo this summer and drove thourgh so cal heat up some pretty big hills. My truck was absolutely UNHAPPY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! some streches were down to 35mph and beginning to overheat. So to combat this, I added the radix.
So for your situation, your base point of 6000lbs is probably high. I think your setting yourself up for problems if you start adding alot of weight. I think youd be better off getting a bigger tow vechicle, smaller trailer, or be happy cruising at 45-50 mph.
Now, when towing to Glamis, which is relatively flat and a few long not so steep grades the truck pulled just fine I could cruise at about 60-65 with about 10mpg.
I went to pismo this summer and drove thourgh so cal heat up some pretty big hills. My truck was absolutely UNHAPPY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! some streches were down to 35mph and beginning to overheat. So to combat this, I added the radix.
So for your situation, your base point of 6000lbs is probably high. I think your setting yourself up for problems if you start adding alot of weight. I think youd be better off getting a bigger tow vechicle, smaller trailer, or be happy cruising at 45-50 mph.
10-15-2005, 12:43 AM
#19
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the gears would help alot. But I am affraid that you might be pushing the limit of safety with that much weight back there. The problems begin when the trailer is driving the truck not the truck pulling the trailer. I had a couple of instances where I passed a rig or motorhome and my trailer almost got sucked into the passing vehicle. SCARY!!! I would definitely recommend a sway bar and you MUST have a weight distribution hitch.
Also, the radix would help too.
Also, the radix would help too.
10-15-2005, 12:53 AM
#20
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I've heard guys who know much more about towing than I will ever know say that tow ratings for 1/2 ton trucks are on the aggressive side. Their rule of thumb is 80% of what the manufacturer says is tow capacity is the vehicle's real (read: safe) tow capacity.