shakenfake

It is an option now. That’s what I had planned on getting. I’ve heard a ton of stellar reviews on it.

BuckNasty92

Manual bleeding gets me further than the other ways. I feel like I actually go backwards a bit. Looks like I’ll be bleeding brakes for a while.

question on yours though: when you had to keep bleeding them over and over, were you getting air bubbles the whole time or was it just a sudden air pocket finally came out and the pedal was right again?

wretched73

iTrader: (1)

I'd get a few air bubbles at the start, then I'd drive around for a few more days, bleed again and get a couple small bubbles.... Rinse and repeat.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html

I bought this after the fact and I have used it for bleeding hyd clutches. It has worked well for that. I haven't had a need to bleed brakes since my truck but I'd try this style. I like that I can keep pulling suction while I close the bleeder again.

BuckNasty92

I borrowed a snap on version of this from a coworker but didn’t seem to help as much as manual bleeding. That’s a pretty good price point so I may try it anyway and have one for myself.

Since it’s drivable I may do as you did. Drive it, bleed some more, repeat until pedal feels good.

Just out of curiosity is yours a power or manual set up?

wretched73

iTrader: (1)

Mine was a stock power setup. I replaced all my brake lines with new stainless lines.

Do you still have the stock abs module under the truck? I always assumed that was holding some air.

BuckNasty92

I removed it and made new brake lines to get rid of all the excess going from MC to the ABS module and back to the front calipers

BuckNasty92

Fixed my truck and feel like a complete idiot. I stumbled across the GM factory brake bleeding procedure. It goes over replacement of the brake master cylinder which involves bench bleeding AND THEN bleeding the lines that connect to the master.

After I did this with the stock master, suddenly I had a hard brake pedal. From there I tried a 1.125 then decided on a 1.032 Strange MC with a 7:1 pedal ratio to get the right pedal feel and travel.

After the brakes warm up from a few stops they feel pretty good using a little more leg effort than with the power brakes. I’ll be getting new rotors and some EBC yellow stuff brake pads for a better cold bite as well as adjusting the proportioning valve.

BuckNasty92

Posting this here for future reference

Factory brake bleeding procedure

-If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:

- Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations (USA and Canada).

- With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.

- Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.

- Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.

- Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.

- Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

- With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3–3.8.

-Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.

-Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.



--Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.

Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.

Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.

-Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.

-Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

-Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8–10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.

With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.

Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.

With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.

Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.

With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.

-Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.

-Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

-Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.

BuckNasty92

Well after swapping several masters around I narrowed down that for my truck to have a manual brake set up that stops like I want, I’d need something around a 1.25” master cylinder. I pulled some measurements of an NNBS master (which uses a 1.25”) to see if it’d work with my manual brakes.com adapter but it didn’t match up. Even if it did though, it’s such a fine balance so who’s to say that would even work.

So long story short, I pulled it all out and put hydroboost on. Drove it around today and man this **** will put you through a windshield now. It’s the best brakes I’ve ever used and that’s on 7 year old rotors and pads.

I really wanted to see the manual system work but in the long run this is the better option for a boosted application that is street driven. Gonna flush P/S system and brakes, put new pads and rotors on and go drive this thing.

Thank you guys for all your input, help and guidance. I learned a lot in all of this even if it didn’t work out they way I hoped in the beginning.