Brake Pads
#11
I just installed EBC Green 7000's in front and 6000's in rear and am totally impressed with them. I previously had Praise Dyno cryogenically treated performance pads and was very happy with them, but the EBC Greens are even better.
Haven't heard much about the Hawk ceramics...since they are ceramic they should last a long time and have very little dust, but there's usually some sacrifice in stopping performance. I know that I've read of a lot of guys complaining about the Hawk HPS pads making noise and dusting like hell, but most have reported good stopping performance from them.
Here's my thread with my EBC Green Stuff review:https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=480687
Haven't heard much about the Hawk ceramics...since they are ceramic they should last a long time and have very little dust, but there's usually some sacrifice in stopping performance. I know that I've read of a lot of guys complaining about the Hawk HPS pads making noise and dusting like hell, but most have reported good stopping performance from them.
Here's my thread with my EBC Green Stuff review:https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=480687
When I called either Hawk or a reseller of Hawk, they advised against me gettin their ceramic's on a truck. I was shocked. Advised me to go w/. the LTS pads or is it HPS. All these doggone acronyms.
Do you feel the pulsation in the steering wheel or the seat or both? Often times, the pulsation will transmit to these areas and you will know whether the pulsation is coming from the front or rear (steering wheel = front, seat = rear). But often time you only feel it in the pedal, and have to use a dial indication to determine which rotor(s) are out of round.
Honestly, you can get some cheap white box factory replacement rotors and the brakes will act and feel the same as if you dropped the dough on expensive slotted rotors. I've had good luck with the rotors that NAPA offers. Actually, slotted/drilled/dimpled rotors don't do much in a daily driven or 1/4 mile application, as the slots/holes/dimples don't do much but remove surface area from the rotor for the pads to grab on to.
I'm extremely happy with my PraiseDyno cryo slotted rotors...they have resisted oxidation great, and are totally true with no pulsations. I went through two sets of factory rotors that rusted to **** very quickly here in the northeast.
Honestly, you can get some cheap white box factory replacement rotors and the brakes will act and feel the same as if you dropped the dough on expensive slotted rotors. I've had good luck with the rotors that NAPA offers. Actually, slotted/drilled/dimpled rotors don't do much in a daily driven or 1/4 mile application, as the slots/holes/dimples don't do much but remove surface area from the rotor for the pads to grab on to.
I'm extremely happy with my PraiseDyno cryo slotted rotors...they have resisted oxidation great, and are totally true with no pulsations. I went through two sets of factory rotors that rusted to **** very quickly here in the northeast.
Last edited by fastnblu; 04-24-2011 at 09:35 PM. Reason: (sp.)
#12
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That is weird, because I have always thought Ceramic is best for trucks. On my old F150 I used a normal pad and had bad squealing after a few hundred miles, Changed to a ceramic and it solved all the issues.
#14
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I put them on way back in 05, so they may not even make a ceramic pad for trucks anymore. I dont have any complaints about them, they stop good but in all honesty its been so damn long since Ive driven the truck with brakes that are 100% I dont really remember. After the truck went down in 07 after the stroker motor debacle, it sat for 3 years and had a leak in one of the banjo fittings. I believe some air made its way up to the ABS pump and Ive yet to bleed it all out since the brakes still feel a bit spongy.
Ive got a hydroboost and a pressure bleeder sitting in the garage that should take care of that at some point when I get time to mess with it.
Ive got a hydroboost and a pressure bleeder sitting in the garage that should take care of that at some point when I get time to mess with it.
#15
I wanted ceramic, cause I figured they'd be the closest I could get til I can afford some big brakes. As a side note, how's dust on yours? I'm most city driving, & it throws a little more than stock, but not much. I can't stand brake dust (any actually, but go nuts if it's excessive) so that's important to me. They stop well & price is OK. Another great point - no squeal!
#16
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i just put some hawk ceramics with ssbc slotted rotors. they do still sell them (summit racing) they stop pretty darn good for stock size brakes and stock calipers.
they advise against ceramics if you are going to be doing any towing, so they just usually dont say to get ceramics for a truck
they advise against ceramics if you are going to be doing any towing, so they just usually dont say to get ceramics for a truck
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Yeah Just pads, Tried 2 pairs of normals then went to ceramic on recommendation and it solved the issues.
I'm looking at the EBC yellow, but they say they dust more, but I want to know how bad.
I have also now started looking at the baer +1 system for the front, so another option. I would like to go with the Carbontech 1521 pads, because Z06 owners say they do real well and don't dust at all (and Z06 brakes are real bad about dust) but I can't find a retailer that sells the Truck model pads.
I'm looking at the EBC yellow, but they say they dust more, but I want to know how bad.
I have also now started looking at the baer +1 system for the front, so another option. I would like to go with the Carbontech 1521 pads, because Z06 owners say they do real well and don't dust at all (and Z06 brakes are real bad about dust) but I can't find a retailer that sells the Truck model pads.
Last edited by stone150; 04-25-2011 at 04:57 PM.
#18
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Ceramic pads will produce less dust and last longer, and are usually quieter, but won't have as good of stopping performance as say a semi-metallic or ferro-carbon style pad. It's a trade off...generally as the pads get more performance oriented, the dust, noise, and pad life get affected negatively also.
I'm curious about the EBC Yellow's also...I was considering them when I was pad shopping, but my *assumption* is that the dust level will increase enough that my front wheels would be black a few hours after pulling out of the car wash, which I'm not a fan of at this point. I don't know for sure though, and I'm not familiar with anyone running the Yellow's, so I'm just guessing
I'm curious about the EBC Yellow's also...I was considering them when I was pad shopping, but my *assumption* is that the dust level will increase enough that my front wheels would be black a few hours after pulling out of the car wash, which I'm not a fan of at this point. I don't know for sure though, and I'm not familiar with anyone running the Yellow's, so I'm just guessing
#19
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
Actually, slotted/drilled/dimpled rotors don't do much in a daily driven or 1/4 mile application, as the slots/holes/dimples don't do much but remove surface area from the rotor for the pads to grab on to.
Just to clarify, so's not to confuse anyone, I was referring to a stock replacement application. Of course if you go with an upsized rotor you'll be gaining more friction surface with the bigger rotor and can then reap the benefits of slot/dimples. I personally don't like drilled rotors, as I've seen way to many of them crack at the holes...not saying that there aren't quality drilled rotors available that aren't prone to that though. Drilled rotors are OEM equipment on many performance/luxury performance vehicles these days. Slots/Dimples are just my personal preference
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I went from ebc yellow stuff and ebc rotors to hawk pads and summit racing rotors i love the hawk pads no noise low dust the ebc were driving me crazy i replace thim after 2 months they fade out under extreme braking and the squeaking was unbearable.