Not driving the truck a lot lately. Decided to fix a leak in my meth tank today so took care of that then started it up afterward. Weird clatter, sounded something like a playing card in a bicycle spoke. Turned out to be the A/C compressor. Turn A/C off no noise, on, the noise and no A/C. Only 80K miles and a bum A/C compressor..... thanks GM.

Guess I'll try and pick up a low mile used one. Looks like they run 300-600 new. How hard is it to change out? Looks a bit tight down there. Guessing the procedure would be take it to an A/C guy. Evacuate it, swap out the compressor, back to the A/C guy and charge it.

 

Check the tensioner first. Common problem.

 

I saw one in the classified off an 04 for $75

 

Relatively new tensioner. It's okay, belt is on and with the A/C on I have no cold air.

Been doing some reading on swapping out the compressor. A lot of talk about flushing the system after a compressor failure and some components, primarily the condenser that can't be flushed and "should" be replaced. Yuk.

 

It may be only the clutch. Does it have much slippage, if so easy to change out. Unit does not even need to be off vehicle. If you do have compressor failure yes the 134a does have to be reclaimed. Lines, evaporator and condenser flushed. New orifice tube and dryer. Install compressor and pull vacuum for a good hour, turn off vacuum and see if system holds and put back in measured charge. If you were close I would help you out. Have all the stuff to do it at home plus I'm licensed.

 

Thanks, I'm looking there and e-bay. Looks like you can pick up a used one fairly reasonable. Shipping can suck though.

Thanks for the input. I really don't know how to diagnose a bad clutch. Thought about that first. Turned it on and watched it. Didn't appear to slip and seems to be spinning the compressor same RPM as the engine. Even revved it up a bit and the noise kept pace with the RPM's. So dunno.

I'm seeing the kits being sold with a new dryer and orifice tube so you are on the button with the parts. Read a bit of the service manual and some crap about oil balancing. Measuring how much oil comes out of the old compressor and adding the same amount of oil back to the system. Service manual doesn't even mention changing out the dryer and such. I think I'll tear it down before I decide on the flushes and new parts. See if I can see any evidence of crud at the ports of the compressor. It's literally maybe run 3 minutes making the noises, course that could be enough.

 

The best way to check the compressor is to pull the orifice valve. If you flush the system yes you will replace the oil with pag oil in ounces, listed in the service manual. Sorry I forgot that part. It was late for me last night.
After evacuating the system the orifice tube is in the small line right beside the coolant jug. You will see some indentations in the line that hold the orifice in place with a brass nut in front. Take the joint loose and take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull out the orifice tube. If its full of junk your screwed. System has to be flushed to remove all the metal and other crap. Check on ebay they have new take offs from time to time or you can buy a new one from NAPA or the general himself. Any questions don't hesitate.

By the way the dryer does exactly that, removes moisture from the system. Anytime a compressor is replaced a new dryer should be installed because of the crap in the line issues. You cant flush a desiccant. If the noise stays in tune with engine rpm, check the orfice for confirmation and look for some new parts. 8 ounces pag oil in 150 weight, compressor, dryer and orifice tube. Gaskets come with the new parts. Also 1 quart of ac flush and the pressure canister to use the flush with. A garage will pull the vacuum and fill.