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A/C problems, need suggestions...

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Old 06-26-2012, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 2doorfury
check schreader valves, if you do a vacum leak test with the machine, it wont pick up leaking schreader valves since thats where the a/c machine lines connect to.
Will do, thanks
Old 06-28-2012, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TX Tahoe Z71
Will do, thanks
All you have to do is put some liquid in there and look for tinny bubbles.

The compressors are notorious for leaking as well.

Obviously there not using the UV Light correctly if they cant find the leak... That Dye gets everywhere even if its leaking in the dash...
Old 06-28-2012, 11:02 PM
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Agree with brick. Or it is leaking at the evap core. Need to check vents and blend door area with a gas leak detector. just make sure its checked when cool in the morning and the heat of the day. Crap man with the cash you have spent you could have been on your way to buying the tools you need to do it yourself. Got to love these Texas summers man.
Old 06-28-2012, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RacinRust
Agree with brick. Or it is leaking at the evap core. Need to check vents and blend door area with a gas leak detector. just make sure its checked when cool in the morning and the heat of the day. Crap man with the cash you have spent you could have been on your way to buying the tools you need to do it yourself. Got to love these Texas summers man.
Gas leak detectors often give off false readings. Visual conformation from the Dye has never let me down. It's best to look around the case through the vents, and Especially near the drain tube were the condensation runs off. Its usually a connection that leaks and is rarely the core... The condenser or the High and low fittings are usually more likely especially considering the condenser is exposed to road debris. I have even seen the condensers leak and had to look 3 times before I found it... I personally spent upwards of an hour looking for leak. I have even seen the switches the self's be the source of the leak. Was verified by pulling the connector out and it was full of oily Dye.
Old 06-28-2012, 11:57 PM
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Agree with you completely Brick, this is the reason for checking at different temps. But I have seen many evap failures that were very hard to detect with dye. Don't get me wrong when I top off a system it will get dyed.
Old 06-29-2012, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by RacinRust
Agree with you completely Brick, this is the reason for checking at different temps. But I have seen many evap failures that were very hard to detect with dye. Don't get me wrong when I top off a system it will get dyed.
I under stand and as I have admitted I have personal spent upwards of an hour or more looking for leaks. But even at different temperatures I have seen to many false positives with the gas style leak detectors. Especially on cars that vent the Evap near the engine.
Old 06-29-2012, 08:51 AM
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It is beyond frustrating. The two things I don't work on are transmission internals and the A/C system, but it sounds like I need to learn the latter as the shops haven't been any help and I'm $700+ in the hole with nothing to show for it.

Thanks for the help guys, I am going to print this out and take it with me as a checklist next time I take it in.
Old 07-06-2012, 11:13 PM
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Tahoe, did you get your AC going yet ? We haven't had any break from the extreme heat for a few weeks now. Just curious.
Old 07-06-2012, 11:39 PM
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Well aware of the heat dropping it off on Monday at the 2nd shop, haven't had a chance with work yet. I'll update next Thursday when I get back in town.
Old 07-07-2012, 10:25 AM
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FYI... I just put some refrigerant in mine due to a slow leek on the low side schrader valve. I was able to tighten it ~3/4 of a turn but still had a very slow leak. The interesting thing is the gauge showed the pressure was within normal operating range but I was able to put an entire can of refrigerant in with the gauge barely moving. Vent temp went from 72 to 49 at idle in 92 degree ambient temp.


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