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Do headers just plain need to be tighted

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Old 02-26-2012, 12:59 AM
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V6 studs with Stock gaskets and light film of copper rtv should do the trick.
Old 02-26-2012, 01:49 PM
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Ive had my headers on since mid 2009 and they have been off twice since then.I even put anitseize on the bolts and have never had a problem with them backing out..
Old 02-26-2012, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 40series
maybe they were torqued wrong when they were installed and are you saying all header bolts that break off were improperly torqued
your bolts are most likely breaking because they have seized in the head. Very common. they also look pretty rusty. When working with exhaust manifold bolts, studs, nuts, I always use a good supply of penetrating fluid. Because, if you don't, breakage is almost guaranteed.

Originally Posted by 40series
what kind of bolts were you running?
Factory bolts, same as you (according to your pics in the other thread)

Originally Posted by 40series
...TODAY I TRIED TO TIGHTENED ONE OF THE BOLTS AND DISCOVERED YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE SPARK PLUGS OUT TO GET TO THE HEADER BOLTS I THINK THEY ARE 9MM
I don't understand why the plug is in the way. They sit well below where the bolts are located and should not interfere.
Old 02-27-2012, 03:20 PM
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Default Pb blasted header bolts today

PB BLASTED HEADER BOLTS TODAY, LETTING IT SIT OVER NIGHT, IM JUST HOPING WHEN I TAKE THE HEADER OFF THERE WILL BE ENOUGH OF THE BOLT TO GRAB HOLD WITH A VICE GRIP
IM CROSSING MY FINGERS ON THIS ONE
I WAS TOLD TO GET SOME GOOD GRADE 8 BOLTS OR ARP OBVIOUSLY
IM ALSO WONDERING HOW I WILL TORQUE THESE HEADER BOLT BACK {NO ROOM IN THE REAR} I FIGURE GOOD-N- TIGHT SHOULD WORK LOND AS I GET THE CORRECT PATTERN .


ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS
Old 02-27-2012, 03:56 PM
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Is this the tool kit you're using?

Old 02-27-2012, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Is this the tool kit you're using?

LMAO i think thats the one!!! We got a winner!!
Old 02-27-2012, 05:43 PM
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First set proper torque on the bolts in the middle that you can get the torque wrench on, then for the two pesky B 'stards in the back, take a box end wrench (if you have one great, if not go buy one, at least a regular closed end wrench - NO crescent wrenches for crying out loud, you'd have a helluva time getting it to fit back there anyway) and get a feel for the torque set with the torque wrench. Try to duplicate that torque setting with the wrench on the back bolts. Again, like has been said before, Anti-sieze is yo Friend. A little bit of lubricant on the face of the flange will help torque be truer as well.
Old 02-27-2012, 07:00 PM
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I replaced the factory bolts with some studs. I have a set or ratcheting wrenches that work great getting to back bolt out.
Old 02-27-2012, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ForcedTQ
First set proper torque on the bolts in the middle that you can get the torque wrench on, then for the two pesky B 'stards in the back, take a box end wrench (if you have one great, if not go buy one, at least a regular closed end wrench - NO crescent wrenches for crying out loud, you'd have a helluva time getting it to fit back there anyway) and get a feel for the torque set with the torque wrench. Try to duplicate that torque setting with the wrench on the back bolts. Again, like has been said before, Anti-sieze is yo Friend. A little bit of lubricant on the face of the flange will help torque be truer as well.
That's how I do it! You definitely want that box wrench.
Old 02-27-2012, 08:59 PM
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you would be surprised how little torque the header bolts require. use the elbow clicker and dont use a long breaker bar lol. just a wratchet wrench does me good.


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