The install went pretty well with no major trouble. I did some quick testing off road after the job was finished. It works awesome! I drove right through a bunch of ditches with fast drop offs that had a foot of snow in them without any trouble. In 4wd with the diff unlocked it was hard to get through. Stop, hit the button, and away you go. It works great. I also put some 285/75 16 BFG Mud Terrains on the truck this week. I am going to try and post some pics, I've been busy at work and messing around with the e locker.

It locks and unlocks right away when you flip the switch on and off. It doesn't make a sound when it engages, no clunk or anything. The first couple of times I was wondering if it was working or not, I guess I was expecting to hear it lock. You can only engage it when going very slow, kind of like shifting in and out of 4low, or you could damage the locking pins.

Here's a quick rundown of the major things for the install if you're interested.

Remove skid plate, and unbolt right and left drive axles.
Drain front axle.
The housing has 4 bolts that hold it on. Remove.
Unhook the wire connector that engages the front axle.
I couldn't get the housing down because it was too big to drop down between the frame and the steering. I had to unbolt the steering box (3 bolts) and shove the steering piece foreward a bit to get enough clearance, then it came right down.
I stood the axle up on its left side took out the bolts that hold the carrier together, and then took the right side of the carrier and axle tube out in one piece.
I supported the left side of the housing, and then reached through the stock carrier with a screwdriver and knocked the left shaft out. The left shaft has a little retaining ring on it that makes it stick in there a bit. One hit will remove it easily.
Then you can remove the stock carrier from the left side housing.
Swap ring gear onto e locker.
Drill 1/2 inch hole in upper passenger side of right housing for e locker wires.
I stood the right side of the housing up and set the e locker in and pulled the wires through.
Put the left side of the carrier on top and bolted them back together.
Fill it up and put it back in the truck the way you found it.
I drilled a 3/8 hole in the firewall for the wires where the snow plow wires would be if I had a plow.
I installed the locking switch way under the dash in a stealthy location. I hate the look of a bunch of aftermarket wiring crap in my interior, so I hid it nicely.

Later,
Jordan

Edit: I bought new carrier bearings and went to my buddies house and used his press to install them on the E locker before I even started the swap. That way I didn't have to mess with removing the bearings off the old one and putting them on the E locker. Cost me an estra 65 bucks, but saved time and effort.

 

awesome, good to hear that it went well, and it worked right. sounds like that might be a good mod for racing....hit the switch and have AWD launches, and then hit it again and drive home in 2WD

 

Can this be disengauged (sp?) on the fly?

Any tips for me on replacing the outer seals?

 

That is all I needed to hear..........take any pics while it was out? Have a part number? I have to get one of these!!

 

Mike Copeland, the blue 427 powered ZR2 that was apart of the Ultimate Adventure, has a front diff out of a full size Chevy in his truck outfitted with the e-locker. He has nothing but praise about the locker and so far it has even held up to his 550hp 427.

 

The front e locker assembly number is 19622-010. I didn't take any pics of the install, we did the job at my buddies place and I didn't have the camera with me.

 

The instructions say that it is ok to disengage the E Locker while the vehicle is in motion. They don't recommend keeping it locked while moving at 20 mph or faster as vehicle handling is altered with a front locked differential is what the book says. I can say this...when it's locked, I know it cause the truck doesn't want to turn.

I don't know what front axle your working on, but the 9.25 has been pretty much the same for a long time, I think anyway. On changing out the seals...I didn't take the right side all the way apart, as it wasn't necessary. I left the right axle tube on the right housing side, and didn't remove the right axle shaft. I don't see why it would be that hard to take apart. You just have to remove the axle tube from the right housing side. And remember the left axle shaft is kind of stuck in the carrier, just stick a long screwdriver through and knock it loose.

Jordan