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Educate me--General engine knowledge

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Old 09-11-2005, 12:58 AM
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Default Educate me--General engine knowledge

I'm not a mechanic by trade but I have done most of the work on my Tahoe myself, with help from people who know what they are doing. I have some questions that I feel like a dumb *** asking, but I don't know the answers so here goes.

1. Whats the difference beteween a short block/long block?

2. LQ4, LQ9, LQ? what's the difference?

3. Where is a good place to get a forged 408/427 built?

4. Will a Radix work on a 408/427 or is it a waste at that point?

I think my Tahoe wants to be in the 12's, possible?
Old 09-11-2005, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
I'm not a mechanic by trade but I have done most of the work on my Tahoe myself, with help from people who know what they are doing. I have some questions that I feel like a dumb *** asking, but I don't know the answers so here goes.

1. Whats the difference beteween a short block/long block?

2. LQ4, LQ9, LQ? what's the difference?

3. Where is a good place to get a forged 408/427 built?

4. Will a Radix work on a 408/427 or is it a waste at that point?

I think my Tahoe wants to be in the 12's, possible?
I recommend talking to whitt1, he can steer you in the right direction
Old 09-11-2005, 02:43 AM
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I can kind of answer #2. The Lq4 is the lower compression 6.0 found in the 3/4 tons and denali. The Lq9 is the high output 6.0 that you can find in the escalade, SS, and VHO. As far as the LQ4-9 code its just and RPO code like the LM7=5.3, LR4=4.8. Most everything has a code. Your factory locking diff has a code of G80. The gears have a code, etc. etc. etc.

I hope this helps cause I think I confused myself! LOL
Old 09-11-2005, 07:20 AM
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A Short Block Is Just Block ,crank,rods,pistons. Everything Below The Heads. A Long Block Is Normal Everything Below The Intake.their Is A Lot Of Builders Out Their As For Motors, Cmotorsports,futrals Motor Sports,thunder Racing, More Performance,i Don't Know Them All But Just To Give You An Idea
Jmo- With The 402 The Radix Would Be Work I Don't Know If It Would Work Good For 427 But Never Know.
Old 09-11-2005, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by OUT2WIN
I can kind of answer #2. The Lq4 is the lower compression 6.0 found in the 3/4 tons and denali. The Lq9 is the high output 6.0 that you can find in the escalade, SS, and VHO. As far as the LQ4-9 code its just and RPO code like the LM7=5.3, LR4=4.8. Most everything has a code. Your factory locking diff has a code of G80. The gears have a code, etc. etc. etc.

I hope this helps cause I think I confused myself! LOL
So if I was gonna build a stroker I would want the LQ9 or would it matter since I would be replacing the pistons anyway?
Old 09-11-2005, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by litreddevil
Jmo- With The 402 The Radix Would Be Work I Don't Know If It Would Work Good For 427 But Never Know.
I was wondering because if I was told right, the Radix maxes out at about 12 #'s. If I do a forged 408 I'm gonna want to be pushing twice that much boost I would probably have to go to a cetrifugal S/C
Old 09-11-2005, 01:05 PM
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A radix with a 6.0 or 408 would work, but would probably not be your best bet if you want to run more than 8 lbs of boost. The radix yields awesome torque numbers, and that is what you need in a heavy SUV. Just not sure if it can feed a 6.0 or 408 enough air to put you in the 12's. Also, putting a 2.75 pulley on the radix would void the warranty and spin the **** out of the blower. Whitt1 has a tahoe and here is a quick search I did:

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...searchid=29189

The radix is a awesome, just need to make sure you have the right combo to make everything work. A stock dispacement 6.0 with heads, cam, and radix would be a nice combination. You could probably get close to 500 rwhp with that combo. Add a stall. 3000 rpm or so, lose some weight and shoot for the 12's. Yes, that means taking off them 24's in favor for some slicks. lol

I would try to utilize the radix since its a great unit, consider buying a 6.0, slapping the radix on there, and see where you stand. You can always add heads and cam after the fact. I think a 6.0 with a pullied radix, converter, and slicks should be good for 13's.

Hope this helps. I would PM whitt1 since he has first hand experience.

By the way, what is your ET in 1/4 now with the 5.3? Any dyno numbers?
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