GMT800: 1/2T vs 3/4T for towing
#1
GMT800: 1/2T vs 3/4T for towing
Hello all, first time poster here, long time reader. Figured I'd post up here since this forum by far seems to have a membership that really uses their trucks and understand their capabilities. I am considering buying a GMT800 ('00-'06) for use as a daily driver in the cold months here in WNY and to tow trailers during the nice seasons.
With two little kids I plan on purchasing a travel trailer next year, which will probably weigh in the vicinity of 5-6K lbs itself, not including all our gear, family, etc. I also pull a race car on an open trailer about 3-4 times a year, probably close to 7K lbs in total. Our geography in NYS is not very mountainous, mostly flat, and I don't really plan on any real off-roading unless at a campsite on state land.
Given what I plan to tow, and for peace of mind, I'm looking more at the longer wheelbase Suburban and Yukon XL rather than the shorty Tahoes and Yukons. I also plan on sleeping in the back of the truck on occasion during race weekends, so the extra space is nice.
Will a typical 1500 series Suburban 5.3 be adequate for this kind of duty, or should I expand my options to the 2500 with a 6.0/4L80E? The 2500 seems to command quite the premium over the half ton. I have about a decade of swapping LS motors into cars they didn't come in, so I have no problem dropping in a freshened up 6.0 with a cam and rebuilt 80E. The question is really the rest of the 2500 architecture. If I'm staying reasonably within the tow capacity of a 1500 (8Kish lbs), will I really need the 2500's massive axles, frame, etc that add overall weight to the vehicle? The 8.1 doesn't interest me due to fuel economy and my lack of familiarity with the big block engine.
The hot rodder in me is dreaming up buying a lower mileage (sub 100K) 1500 Suburban with no rust and clean body, installing a freshened up 4L80E with an HD2 kit, and putting together a small, responsive turbo kit (10 lbs boost or so) while retaining the stock cam. I put together a fun little 2002 RCSB 4.8 Stepside with a turbo and 80E a few years back and although I never towed with it, it was a riot on the street while still comfortable.
Rear air helper springs to combat squat and maybe a weight distribution hitch would be inexpensive way to add stability.
So what say you - stockish 2500 6.0 or hopped up 1500 5.3?
With two little kids I plan on purchasing a travel trailer next year, which will probably weigh in the vicinity of 5-6K lbs itself, not including all our gear, family, etc. I also pull a race car on an open trailer about 3-4 times a year, probably close to 7K lbs in total. Our geography in NYS is not very mountainous, mostly flat, and I don't really plan on any real off-roading unless at a campsite on state land.
Given what I plan to tow, and for peace of mind, I'm looking more at the longer wheelbase Suburban and Yukon XL rather than the shorty Tahoes and Yukons. I also plan on sleeping in the back of the truck on occasion during race weekends, so the extra space is nice.
Will a typical 1500 series Suburban 5.3 be adequate for this kind of duty, or should I expand my options to the 2500 with a 6.0/4L80E? The 2500 seems to command quite the premium over the half ton. I have about a decade of swapping LS motors into cars they didn't come in, so I have no problem dropping in a freshened up 6.0 with a cam and rebuilt 80E. The question is really the rest of the 2500 architecture. If I'm staying reasonably within the tow capacity of a 1500 (8Kish lbs), will I really need the 2500's massive axles, frame, etc that add overall weight to the vehicle? The 8.1 doesn't interest me due to fuel economy and my lack of familiarity with the big block engine.
The hot rodder in me is dreaming up buying a lower mileage (sub 100K) 1500 Suburban with no rust and clean body, installing a freshened up 4L80E with an HD2 kit, and putting together a small, responsive turbo kit (10 lbs boost or so) while retaining the stock cam. I put together a fun little 2002 RCSB 4.8 Stepside with a turbo and 80E a few years back and although I never towed with it, it was a riot on the street while still comfortable.
Rear air helper springs to combat squat and maybe a weight distribution hitch would be inexpensive way to add stability.
So what say you - stockish 2500 6.0 or hopped up 1500 5.3?
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strutaeng (10-17-2023)
#3
TECH Resident
Yup, another vote for a 2500. They were meant as workhorses and hauling/towing. 1500s are more tailored for a smoother ride, comparatively.
Are you looking for a truck or SUV?
On the SUVs, the 1500s had rear coil springs and the 2500s had leaf springs. There's a big difference in payload/pin weight. Similar on the truck 1500s vs 2500s, although all trucks obviously have leaf springs and can beefed up on the lighter springs.
On the rear axle, the 1500s had the 10 bolt while the 2500s had a variation of the 14 bolt (9.5, 10.5 or 11.5 on the truck TDs.) Again, big difference in strength. Frame strength and brakes is another thing, but for that load you'd still be on the safe side of a 1500 I think.
I suppose you could start with a 1500 and swap to a 6.0/4L80e, and somehow beef up the rear end if you really needed. But starting with a 2500 gets you already there.
Have you looked for southern trucks? Around here the 1500s sell for as much or even higher than 2500s. It's kinda shocking, but it's because everyone wants a 1500 to hot rod. No rust issues.
I hope this helps.
Are you looking for a truck or SUV?
On the SUVs, the 1500s had rear coil springs and the 2500s had leaf springs. There's a big difference in payload/pin weight. Similar on the truck 1500s vs 2500s, although all trucks obviously have leaf springs and can beefed up on the lighter springs.
On the rear axle, the 1500s had the 10 bolt while the 2500s had a variation of the 14 bolt (9.5, 10.5 or 11.5 on the truck TDs.) Again, big difference in strength. Frame strength and brakes is another thing, but for that load you'd still be on the safe side of a 1500 I think.
I suppose you could start with a 1500 and swap to a 6.0/4L80e, and somehow beef up the rear end if you really needed. But starting with a 2500 gets you already there.
Have you looked for southern trucks? Around here the 1500s sell for as much or even higher than 2500s. It's kinda shocking, but it's because everyone wants a 1500 to hot rod. No rust issues.
I hope this helps.
#4
Yup, another vote for a 2500. They were meant as workhorses and hauling/towing. 1500s are more tailored for a smoother ride, comparatively.
Are you looking for a truck or SUV?
On the SUVs, the 1500s had rear coil springs and the 2500s had leaf springs. There's a big difference in payload/pin weight. Similar on the truck 1500s vs 2500s, although all trucks obviously have leaf springs and can beefed up on the lighter springs.
On the rear axle, the 1500s had the 10 bolt while the 2500s had a variation of the 14 bolt (9.5, 10.5 or 11.5 on the truck TDs.) Again, big difference in strength. Frame strength and brakes is another thing, but for that load you'd still be on the safe side of a 1500 I think.
I suppose you could start with a 1500 and swap to a 6.0/4L80e, and somehow beef up the rear end if you really needed. But starting with a 2500 gets you already there.
Have you looked for southern trucks? Around here the 1500s sell for as much or even higher than 2500s. It's kinda shocking, but it's because everyone wants a 1500 to hot rod. No rust issues.
I hope this helps.
Are you looking for a truck or SUV?
On the SUVs, the 1500s had rear coil springs and the 2500s had leaf springs. There's a big difference in payload/pin weight. Similar on the truck 1500s vs 2500s, although all trucks obviously have leaf springs and can beefed up on the lighter springs.
On the rear axle, the 1500s had the 10 bolt while the 2500s had a variation of the 14 bolt (9.5, 10.5 or 11.5 on the truck TDs.) Again, big difference in strength. Frame strength and brakes is another thing, but for that load you'd still be on the safe side of a 1500 I think.
I suppose you could start with a 1500 and swap to a 6.0/4L80e, and somehow beef up the rear end if you really needed. But starting with a 2500 gets you already there.
Have you looked for southern trucks? Around here the 1500s sell for as much or even higher than 2500s. It's kinda shocking, but it's because everyone wants a 1500 to hot rod. No rust issues.
I hope this helps.
Ride quality is very important to me. I plan on long trips with the family, so the 1500 coil spring rear has the edge vs the 2500 leafs.
I'm wondering if the 10 bolt is strong enough for towing duties - no shock loads, very light off roading, so besides a an optional gear change it might be fine for pulling a trailer around on flat ground?
There's no chance I'll find what I'm looking for locally. Every single Suburban/Tahoe here is an absolute rust pile with 200K+ for $3K. I am planning on buying a Southern or West coast truck and will have to travel to get it.
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
Speaking from experience of towing 7K with an 02 Tahoe for years, the 1500 Suburban is capable of the task. However, I would recommend a few upgrades to make your towing duties more enjoyable and safer. You already mentioned the power and drivetrain upgrades. Others are braking improvements, aftermarket or boxed rear lower control arms and panhard (they tend to flex and induce sway when towing heavy) and load control (AirLift coil bags worked great). The extra weight and wheel base of the Suburban will track better than the shorter Tahoe as well. The coil sprung rear will likely ride better unloaded for daily duty but the torsion bar front end (assuming 4wd due to mention of cold months in NY) is less than desirable for ride quality. Since you seem to be into modifying things, a coil-over swap would remedy that issue.
So, the decision really comes down to which configuration you can find for a reasonable price and if you want a project or a tow capable vehicle from the start. I had a similar choice to make after the Tahoe was totaled. I wanted to get back into a truck with a bed so had to choose between a 1500 gasser or a 2500 diesel. Considering its daily duties, I chose a 1500 and do not regret it. The 6.2L/6L80 tows great thru the hills of TN/KY where the 5.3L/4L60 in the Tahoe would absolutely struggle.
As for question of turbo for towing, there are few threads here discussing that topic. From what I recall the responses were positive with the right turbo and cooling.
So, the decision really comes down to which configuration you can find for a reasonable price and if you want a project or a tow capable vehicle from the start. I had a similar choice to make after the Tahoe was totaled. I wanted to get back into a truck with a bed so had to choose between a 1500 gasser or a 2500 diesel. Considering its daily duties, I chose a 1500 and do not regret it. The 6.2L/6L80 tows great thru the hills of TN/KY where the 5.3L/4L60 in the Tahoe would absolutely struggle.
As for question of turbo for towing, there are few threads here discussing that topic. From what I recall the responses were positive with the right turbo and cooling.
#6
Lots of love for the 2500, seems like the right tool for the job.
Any advice on where to look for a rust free 2001-2006 4WD model (Suburban or Yukon XL) with a 6.0? I am finding a few with the 8100, and all seem priced insanely high for a 20 year old Chevy. I get the "niche" market, but this seems excessive. Was hoping to spend under 10K for one, and don't mind doing some mechanical work to get it in shape. Not too worried about miles, it's the condition of the body and frame that I care most about.
Any advice on where to look for a rust free 2001-2006 4WD model (Suburban or Yukon XL) with a 6.0? I am finding a few with the 8100, and all seem priced insanely high for a 20 year old Chevy. I get the "niche" market, but this seems excessive. Was hoping to spend under 10K for one, and don't mind doing some mechanical work to get it in shape. Not too worr
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#8
TECH Veteran
Dude funny you asked
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#9
TECH Fanatic
2500 suburbans are bad ***. That is all I have to add.
#10
I have 3 stock Suburbans. A 1500 with a 5.3, a 2500 with a 6.0, and a 2500 with an 8.1.
My favorite to tow with is the 8.1, and they all get the same mileage when towing my cargo trailer in the mountains,
I figure that is due to having to rev the smaller engines more.
The 1500 doesn't compare to a 2500 when towing anything.
When not towing I get 16mpg with the 5.3, 13mpg with the 6.0 and 11 mpg with the 8.1
My favorite to tow with is the 8.1, and they all get the same mileage when towing my cargo trailer in the mountains,
I figure that is due to having to rev the smaller engines more.
The 1500 doesn't compare to a 2500 when towing anything.
When not towing I get 16mpg with the 5.3, 13mpg with the 6.0 and 11 mpg with the 8.1