Mechanic in a bottle
11-21-2010, 09:58 PM
#21
Did you guys read past the Bold area? Read again.
Just make sure you check the filter regularly as it gets dirty faster.
Also from Seafoams website....
Cleaning Lifters and Oil RingsTo clean oil rings and lifters, add 1½ oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil.
Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the old oil varnish residue that builds up on lifters, rings and PCV valve systems that prevent them from functioning normally. This process can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam to the oil at least 30 miles before the next oil change interval. OR it can be done as a preventative maintenance process without changing the oil. You can leave Sea Foam in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as built up oil residue and contamination are cleaned. Check the oil and filter at regular intervals and change when dirty. Results of this procedure may include increased vacuum, RPM's and compression.
Cleaning Lifters and Oil RingsTo clean oil rings and lifters, add 1½ oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil.
Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the old oil varnish residue that builds up on lifters, rings and PCV valve systems that prevent them from functioning normally. This process can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam to the oil at least 30 miles before the next oil change interval. OR it can be done as a preventative maintenance process without changing the oil. You can leave Sea Foam in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as built up oil residue and contamination are cleaned. Check the oil and filter at regular intervals and change when dirty. Results of this procedure may include increased vacuum, RPM's and compression.
11-21-2010, 10:02 PM
#26
Teching In
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I think the oil maybe a regional brand. Not sure. I do live on a dirt road and run a open style intake. Wondering if that has something to do with it. Nobody has any experience with the actual engine flush product?
I've actually watched them change the oil and they drain, fill and filter. Just wondering if it's a crap filter too. If I should maybe supply my own?
I've actually watched them change the oil and they drain, fill and filter. Just wondering if it's a crap filter too. If I should maybe supply my own?
11-21-2010, 10:05 PM
#28
BTW, don't let one of those oil change places sell you their own crank case flush. I used to work at a place where we did that service and I can tell you first hand that it really didn't do **** for removing any major sludge. They run some heated mineral spirits through the crankcase (or probably something weaker now due to EPA standards), then install new oil and filter. I've visually inspected many engines after the service was done, and they're still full of sludge.
If an engine is extremely sludged, be careful running any solution through the crankcase as it could knock the sludge loose and it may end up clogging the oil pump pickup screen...I've seen this happen on engines that have overheated, which loosened sludge up which clogged the screen and hardened...just something to consider.
If an engine is extremely sludged, be careful running any solution through the crankcase as it could knock the sludge loose and it may end up clogging the oil pump pickup screen...I've seen this happen on engines that have overheated, which loosened sludge up which clogged the screen and hardened...just something to consider.
