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new truck/ new setup= good gas mileage (goal)

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Old 04-08-2011, 12:30 PM
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I say put a good tune in it and leave it as stock as possible for the best mpg. Mine has 3.42s also, and 110lb 33" tires, and I get 14mpg 100% city, and it moves out just fine. On the highway I'm sure it would get 17-18, but at 70 I'm at 1700rpms, so it does unlock or downshift on inclines. It just depends where you do most of your driving.
Old 04-08-2011, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cttandy
Something to really think about.

Do you want a toy or do you want good gas mileage?

Not saying you can't do both, but there is something big many people overlook. If you have spent or are spending money to get better mileage, how long will it take you to get your investment back. I sat down and did a cost analysis on my fuel mileage build. With very careful planning and doing a lot of horse trading, I will see a return on my investment by the end of summer. As of now, I have $450 invested in my search for fuel mileage, with my current gains and typical driving, I should save around $800 a year at the pump.

Buying a new vehicle to save fuel, then spending more every month on a payment for the vehicle then what you saved in fuel doesn't add up. Even if you paid cash, how long will it take you to see a return in fuel mileage? 6-10 years maybe, will you still have the truck then? If that is the case, spend the $2,000 on a old honda and park the new truck for the weekends with the family.

If you are building a toy, or wanted a nicer more family friendly truck, then the real concern is, I want to add power but still maintain decent mileage. With that said, less would be more.
Small cam that doesn't need a convertor.
I am a fan of a good built transmission with 3.42 or 3.08 gears. (my pickups was built for pulling, but the lack of gear hunting since the build improved the mileage from 17 to 20MPG, when it was on stock tires)
A good intake and exhaust to compliment the tune. I saw nearly a 5MPG gain in dumping my flowmaster in favor of a better muffler. We saw the mileage go south when we put the flowmaster on, so I don't think it was a gain over stock, just a gain over flowmaster. I think I would leave the cats on or replace them with some good aftermarket cats. My experience with mileage has been better with cats then without cats.
LS motors don't seem to like being lugged, for some reason optimal mileage seems to be had around 2200RPM. If you gearing or tires isn't getting you near that, it might be something for you to consider. My old TBI motors on the other hand, like to darn near idle on the interstate and sip on fuel.
If you can get non-ethanol gas, you will see a gain over the ethanol mix. My Dad's little van jumped 4 MPG just filling up with non-ethanol. I don't know what my old truck gained as the speedo hasn't been accurate in a few years, but my fill ups took me about a week further then before (36 gallon fill-ups though). Everything else I have, has only had non-ethanol since I got it including my mower.

I am half asleep so if any of this doesn't make since, I am very sorry.
thanks for the post andy. im looking for a family friendly truck that i can take on a trip and get decent gas mileage. yet i still want quick truck. im looking for something tame that will make the best out of what im working with. im not to concerned with getting a return on my investment with gas savings. more of just not having to add another $100 to a vacation because my truck gets crappy MPG and i have to fill up an extra time. my main area i want to maintain my MPG is on the highway/interstate. thats why i think something that has got the power to keep the truck cruising at 70-80mph would be beneficial.

im really leaning towards a cammed 6L with 243 heads. something that has has power from idle to 6000 rpms.


Originally Posted by dlt76028
I say put a good tune in it and leave it as stock as possible for the best mpg. Mine has 3.42s also, and 110lb 33" tires, and I get 14mpg 100% city, and it moves out just fine. On the highway I'm sure it would get 17-18, but at 70 I'm at 1700rpms, so it does unlock or downshift on inclines. It just depends where you do most of your driving.
so were running the same setup almost. except you got a 6" lift and my tires are a tad smaller

what are your trucks mods?
Old 04-08-2011, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by nonnieselman
I have the ISKY 215/215 .566''/.566'' 114*+2 in my stock LQ4 and with the 4L80e 3.42s and 265/65/17s it has no problem pulling a hill in OD with the converter locked even with 1200# of welding stuff in the bed. im at 2050rpms doin 70.
I havent gone on a long trip in quite some time but ive been averaging 15mpg most of that is goin 45mph on the backroads and the converter doesnt lock till 55.


The vacuum gauge is a really good idea, or if your use to tuning Speed Density and watching the VE talbe, you know the slow transitions help mileage.
Thats pretty good mileage for a 4l80e 3.42s and big tires. I like those cam specs. Smaller than a tr220 but still single pattern, I like, single pattern cams tend to make more torque. Decent lift and a moderate LSA. 114 - 117lsa should get better mileage than 110-112lsa from my understanding.
Old 04-08-2011, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SimpleManLance
thanks for the post andy. im looking for a family friendly truck that i can take on a trip and get decent gas mileage. yet i still want quick truck. im looking for something tame that will make the best out of what im working with. im not to concerned with getting a return on my investment with gas savings. more of just not having to add another $100 to a vacation because my truck gets crappy MPG and i have to fill up an extra time. my main area i want to maintain my MPG is on the highway/interstate. thats why i think something that has got the power to keep the truck cruising at 70-80mph would be beneficial.

im really leaning towards a cammed 6L with 243 heads. something that has has power from idle to 6000 rpms.
With a cam and tune, I am wondering it will still have the sweet spot right around 2200RPM. I am thinking probably not, but will be interesting to see real world numbers.

The more you can keep the truck in OD the better your mileage will be, might be something you want to ask your transmission builder. Mine modified something (I'm somewhat clueless about transmissions) by drilling out a solenoid or something to increase the pressure and hold it in gear. Mine was a 700r4 and yours is a 4l60E so different animals but I would imagine something similar is in effect. My detent is adjusted to stock specs, which would be similiar to the tuning in your computer. You will be able to do way more with yours, then I can with mine.

I would get a cam spec'd. I would want to get the engines TQ lower. This will help with the gears and tires.

As mentioned by so many others, the more information available to you while you drive the better. A vacuum gauge will definitely help. I prefer a louder exhaust for the same reason. I listen to the load on the engine while drive. In time, I adjust to the vehicle and drive it by sound and rarely look at the speedo. I more often look down to check the other gauges then the speedo.
Old 04-09-2011, 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SimpleManLance

im really leaning towards a cammed 6L with 243 heads. something that has has power from idle to 6000 rpms.
honestly lance, if you don't want to change gears or downsize tires, I see no other option than a baby cammed 6L. A 5.3 just won't make the torque down low enough, especially with opening up the exhaust with headers.
Old 04-15-2011, 05:14 PM
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When I had a 5.3 in my crew cab z71, with a 206 212 112 comp cam, stock everything else besides tune, I could get 20-21 mpg on the hwy, 16 avg in the city. That was the best combo I had on that truck for mileage. I now have a stock lq9 with stock everything else besides tune, it gets about 17-18 hwy and 14-15 city. The stock converter is the only way you will get decent mileage, i put a 2600 in there, lost 2-3mpg
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