o2?
07-27-2009, 08:48 PM
#11
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Well I told my dad not to but he bought 4 new o2 sensors and the truck still has a missfire.I cleared the codes and parked the truck. I haven't tightened the exhaust leak yet. What do you guys think I should do next. I put new plugs in while the engine was out and dont recall breaking any porcelin?
11-25-2009, 01:08 AM
#14
Do what I did, I just recently got my 02 lights to shut off on my 97 work truck since the cat was plugged. What I did is got 2 spark plug non foulers HELP part #: 42002 18mm pieces
Then since 2 of them come in a pack - drill one of them out with a 9/16" bit all the way through.
They come like this:
Drill one out so it looks like this:
You'll end up with this:
Now insert your 02 sensor into the one you drilled out (remember to use antiseize on the threads)
Here should be the end product before you screw it into the bung.
Hook everything up and enjoy. I did this 2 weeks ago on my truck after yanking the cat and with 500 miles on the setup I haven't set a light yet. Good luck!
Then since 2 of them come in a pack - drill one of them out with a 9/16" bit all the way through.
They come like this:
Drill one out so it looks like this:
You'll end up with this:
Now insert your 02 sensor into the one you drilled out (remember to use antiseize on the threads)
Here should be the end product before you screw it into the bung.
Hook everything up and enjoy. I did this 2 weeks ago on my truck after yanking the cat and with 500 miles on the setup I haven't set a light yet. Good luck!
So I'm gonna try this and I'm wondering how long til the light comes back on. I read one thread where the light comes on after 900 or so miles.
Thanks Joe,
Roger
11-25-2009, 08:45 AM
#15
Roger, I have a 97 C1500 with a 4.3L Vortec just like you. The light has not come on since I've done this. I easily have 8K miles on this setup and not even once has the light tripped. 
Make sure you don't go too big with the drill bit though, you'll take out the threads. I forgot what size I used. Just keep stepping up with your drill press until the sensor fits in.
Make sure you don't go too big with the drill bit though, you'll take out the threads. I forgot what size I used. Just keep stepping up with your drill press until the sensor fits in.
11-25-2009, 11:55 AM
#16
Off topic, but W-code huh? I replaced a bunch of W-engines back in the late 80's early 90's...I believe that they were 3.? liters though...front wheel drive Grand Prix and/or Grand Am maybe? It's been a long time, but I remember that the block would crack in the rear corner by the head, making many techs think that it was a head gasket problem...
11-25-2009, 01:12 PM
#17
Off topic, but W-code huh? I replaced a bunch of W-engines back in the late 80's early 90's...I believe that they were 3.? liters though...front wheel drive Grand Prix and/or Grand Am maybe? It's been a long time, but I remember that the block would crack in the rear corner by the head, making many techs think that it was a head gasket problem...
11-25-2009, 01:26 PM
#18
For the 4.3 liter V6 used in S & T series pickups and Blazers, there were 2 different engines. Z or W. The Z-code 4.3 was throttle body fuel injected. The W-code 4.3 was CPI injected and was labeled 'Vortec'. I don't remember the hp/tq numbers, but the W engine was more powerful.
X-code came later, and was SFI injection.
I think most 4.3 liters that made it into C/K trucks were Z-code, but I'm not positive.
Joe, thanks for your response.
X-code came later, and was SFI injection.
I think most 4.3 liters that made it into C/K trucks were Z-code, but I'm not positive.
Joe, thanks for your response.
