oil pressure dropping, should I be worried?
03-16-2013, 08:56 PM
#41
I realize this is going to sound harsh so I apologize in advance.
Ok, first you mentioned the engine was upside down and that you cleaned the oil pump and had to "scrub" it to get the material off... If that's the case it possible you got contamination in there.
You also mentioned this was your new 370.
If that is the case, Why would you reuse the oil pump on a brand new build??? A new one is less then $100
I forgot why you had to have this engine rebuilt, regardless you should have at least taken the pump completely apart for inspection before attempting to reuse it.
Prior to assembly did you personally clean the crank oil galley's??? Did you do the same on the block???
NEVER EVER Assume that stuff is clean when you get it back. Always clean all of the oil galleys with engine cleaning brushes and plenty of solvent. Personally, I always use Hot Soapy water first then use Solvent and Immediately clean it off and oil it down so it doesn't rust.
You can wash your hands, clean the outer surfaces, blow air through the passages assemble it in a NASA clean room and still do that kind of damage if you don't use a brush in the oil Galleys of the block and the crank. The grit and coolant from machining processes get's trapped in there and if you don't remove it prior to assembly, The oil pressure will knock it lose especially as it warms up and becomes hot.
Ok, first you mentioned the engine was upside down and that you cleaned the oil pump and had to "scrub" it to get the material off... If that's the case it possible you got contamination in there.
You also mentioned this was your new 370.
If that is the case, Why would you reuse the oil pump on a brand new build??? A new one is less then $100
I forgot why you had to have this engine rebuilt, regardless you should have at least taken the pump completely apart for inspection before attempting to reuse it.
Prior to assembly did you personally clean the crank oil galley's??? Did you do the same on the block???
NEVER EVER Assume that stuff is clean when you get it back. Always clean all of the oil galleys with engine cleaning brushes and plenty of solvent. Personally, I always use Hot Soapy water first then use Solvent and Immediately clean it off and oil it down so it doesn't rust.
You can wash your hands, clean the outer surfaces, blow air through the passages assemble it in a NASA clean room and still do that kind of damage if you don't use a brush in the oil Galleys of the block and the crank. The grit and coolant from machining processes get's trapped in there and if you don't remove it prior to assembly, The oil pressure will knock it lose especially as it warms up and becomes hot.
03-16-2013, 09:11 PM
#42
No, that doesn't sound harsh at all. You have always been very helpful to me on here. When I cleaned the oil pump, it was off the engine, and completely disassembled. After the machine work the pump was completely disassembled and cleaned with brake cleaner. I didn't think it would be a problem to use a pump over if it was cleaned. I cleaned all the gallies out with an engine cleaning brush. Sort of like a gun cleaning rod. I washed the block off with soapy water 3 times after pressure washing it off. I cleaned all nooks and crannies that I could find on the block. Every plug in the block was removed, and anything I could think of was cleaned and then some. I ended up using 4 cases of brake cleaner during my cleaning process. I was upset with my machine shop after getting the parts. My block was rusty. As my luck has it, the day my engine was ready, they had a small fire. Well my block got wet, and it sat for a month. It wasn't horrible, but wasn't great. That is why I went so overboard with cleaning it.
The next time I assemble anything it will be in my garage at my house.
The next time I assemble anything it will be in my garage at my house.
03-16-2013, 09:41 PM
#44
Well that's a Shame!!! As far as the oil pump goes, when it was disassembled did that include the oil bypass spring??? Were there any scratches in the aluminum housing were the gear rotor rides??? Was there wear on the gear side???
If your certain it was as clean as it could possibly get then I guess the rest could be machine shop related. Were the little oil galleys on the crank deburred???
FWIW I also use carbon steel metal bristled brushes to clean the small galley's then the nylon ones...
I got mine from here. BRM Flex-Hone, Industrial Brushes, Wire Brushes
They have a nice engine 29 piece engine cleaning nylon brush package that was more comprehensive then any other package I saw on the market.
If your certain it was as clean as it could possibly get then I guess the rest could be machine shop related. Were the little oil galleys on the crank deburred???
FWIW I also use carbon steel metal bristled brushes to clean the small galley's then the nylon ones...
I got mine from here. BRM Flex-Hone, Industrial Brushes, Wire Brushes
They have a nice engine 29 piece engine cleaning nylon brush package that was more comprehensive then any other package I saw on the market.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; 03-16-2013 at 10:40 PM. Reason: added some info
03-17-2013, 06:26 AM
#45
When I disassembled the oil pump I did remove the bypass spring and piston. Everything looked clean in there, and the piston fit fine. The oil pump appeared to have normal wear on the pump where the gear rides. Nothing excessive. I will just buy a new one when I put this back together. I will try and take pics after work of the pump gear surface.
When I rebuilt this engine, it was a LQ4 6.0. I wanted to make sure the cylinders were perfect, so I had it bored. I got Wiseco pistons, and Compstar rods. The rotating assembly was balanced. When the fire happened, the shop went to a standstill. I wanted my parts, and didn't even care if they were finished. I saw my block covered with insulation from where the ceiling was pulled down, and knew it was holding moisture. I stopped by, and eventually he said OK, we just cleaned it. It was wrapped in a black plastic bag, and I never opened it until I got home. When I opened it, I saw the mess that was inthe pics above. I went straight to another machine shop. I have lost all confidence in that shop, and will never use them again. They have a very good name in the area, and everyone is very surprised when I tell them of the problems I have had.
If I have time today after work I want to disassemble the engine. I want to see if the crank is bent. The first journal has more scratches on one side than it does the other. I am not sure the best way to check for straightness, but I was just going to place the crank in the block while it is upside down on the engine stand. I would support it with the thrust bearing and another bearing checking non supported journals with a dial indicator as I turn it over by hand. This is one of those deals where it is nice to find a problem just so you can pinpoint something, but I am not sure I will find it.
When I rebuilt this engine, it was a LQ4 6.0. I wanted to make sure the cylinders were perfect, so I had it bored. I got Wiseco pistons, and Compstar rods. The rotating assembly was balanced. When the fire happened, the shop went to a standstill. I wanted my parts, and didn't even care if they were finished. I saw my block covered with insulation from where the ceiling was pulled down, and knew it was holding moisture. I stopped by, and eventually he said OK, we just cleaned it. It was wrapped in a black plastic bag, and I never opened it until I got home. When I opened it, I saw the mess that was inthe pics above. I went straight to another machine shop. I have lost all confidence in that shop, and will never use them again. They have a very good name in the area, and everyone is very surprised when I tell them of the problems I have had.
If I have time today after work I want to disassemble the engine. I want to see if the crank is bent. The first journal has more scratches on one side than it does the other. I am not sure the best way to check for straightness, but I was just going to place the crank in the block while it is upside down on the engine stand. I would support it with the thrust bearing and another bearing checking non supported journals with a dial indicator as I turn it over by hand. This is one of those deals where it is nice to find a problem just so you can pinpoint something, but I am not sure I will find it.
03-17-2013, 11:59 AM
#47
Since you don't have the proper equipment, Support it from the ends 1 and 5 and check the thrust for out of round. Be careful when you spin it over not to hit the block.
This is how it's checked in a machine shop on a crank fixture with a set of V blocks. If you support it in the center by the main and another it might not show you how bent it truly is.
This is how it's checked in a machine shop on a crank fixture with a set of V blocks. If you support it in the center by the main and another it might not show you how bent it truly is.
03-17-2013, 05:53 PM
#48
The question now is, how bent is too bent? I put in the bearings for 1 and 5, and turned the crank slowly with a drill so it stayed consistent. And to answer your question from earlier, the oil gallies were deburred.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMTd...e_gdata_player
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMTd...e_gdata_player
