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P0332 - Do I have to let this kill my track plans?

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Old 04-16-2010, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by pewterliftedz
^^^ what he said... you can turn down the knock retard from hp tuners...
but ya just switch em' out.. its not a that big of a job.... just make sure you change out that knock sensor harness at the same time... or you might have to pull the intake twice like me
IDK if this applies to the 5.3 too, but why would ya change out the knock sensor harness at same time?
I thought the magic is in the sensor, not the harness? What are the sensors being switched to?

Is this needed on cam swap as well?
Old 04-16-2010, 03:49 PM
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i think he simply meant to change out the harness while your there so you dont have to pull the intake twice for separate problems..
and imo there is no need to mess with them unless your already there(intake off) and they looked severely corroded, or if they are showing problems..

Last edited by skolman91; 04-16-2010 at 06:27 PM.
Old 04-16-2010, 04:03 PM
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I've had that code multiple times, even at the track, and it didn't effect anything.
Old 04-16-2010, 04:47 PM
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Just do the damn thing!
Old 04-16-2010, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
IDK if this applies to the 5.3 too, but why would ya change out the knock sensor harness at same time?
I thought the magic is in the sensor, not the harness? What are the sensors being switched to?

Is this needed on cam swap as well?
The harness is also prone to corrosion which will lead to excessive resistance that will give the PCM false readings, plus it's relatively inexpensive, so it would behoove you to replace it while you're in there. Plus as mentioned, why end up having to do it twice?
Old 04-18-2010, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
IDK if this applies to the 5.3 too, but why would ya change out the knock sensor harness at same time?
I thought the magic is in the sensor, not the harness? What are the sensors being switched to?

Is this needed on cam swap as well?
Originally Posted by budhayes3
The harness is also prone to corrosion which will lead to excessive resistance that will give the PCM false readings, plus it's relatively inexpensive, so it would behoove you to replace it while you're in there. Plus as mentioned, why end up having to do it twice?
^^^what he said.
Old 04-18-2010, 10:19 AM
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any knock sensor codes will throw you into the low octane timing table as far as i know. We just battled this problem on my buddies truck. He replaced the knock sensors last year and just got the code back. Make sure you seal up the boots too, otherwise its only a short time until it happens again, especially if you wash your motor down once in awhile. BTW, his truck was only running 11* timing WOT because of the code, and it pulling timing from false kr from it.
Old 04-18-2010, 09:45 PM
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I just read a comment from another member in the diagnostics forum that said that this code causes the computer to pull a constant 4* of timing. Ive got this exact code and I see 0 knock in my logs and the truck still runs great. Ill change it later in the summer when i get bored.
Old 04-18-2010, 09:51 PM
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Thanks for all the input guys. I did end up running, and nothing broke, but it definitely doesn't feel like it's running 100%.

I'm going to try to change the sensors tomorrow after class.
Old 04-19-2010, 11:30 AM
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My rear knock sensor went out last year with the same code. Mine definatly pulled timing and I definatly felt a difference. What happeds with these knock sensors on our LS engines is MAJOR corrosion issues. People who wash and detail their engines on a regular basis will have this problem. Because the knock sensors are located below a cheezy plastic cap under the intake water will seep in and pool up in the knock sensor cavity. It mainly affects the rear sensor but if your changing them you might as well do both. The harnes can become corroded as well. If its messed up change it. Mine was alright so its still installed without any problems. What I did to hopefully prevent this from happening again is use RTV and built a dam to block water from going into the cavity. Its about 1/2"-3/4" tall and wide and wraps about half way around the sensor. Its worked out great and have had no problems since.


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