nickleahy23

iTrader: (1)

This is on a 2000 NBS Tahoe...

Ive had the same stereo set up in my truck for 3-4 years and never had a problem. The last few months Ive been getting a dead battery here and there..I was pulling 1.5A from the SEO1 and RADIO fuses, pulled them and I was down to .07A. Without these fuses i get limited use on the cluster and the radio obviously doesnt work. Where do you think I should begin? Possibly pull the screen out and try hooking up a stock one to see if thats causing the draw? Ive heard its a fairly common problem to have those 2 fuses/circuits causing a drain..any ideas where to go would be great.

Gadgetized

iTrader: (9)

I would start out by pulling off a battery terminal. Connect a circuit tester between the battery, and the post you just pulled off. If your battery is draining, it will show a draw. Start pulling fuses 1 by 1 until you see the draw change. When you see the draw change, you have located the area that is running your battery dead. In order for this to work, the vehicle must be off with the doors closed. If you have a hood light, you need to remove the bulb so it does not cause your draw.

Suburbazine

Judging from his post it looks like he's already done that...

I know mine will bleed power from the subwoofer amplifier that is under the glovebox, it occasionally fails to turn off with the truck.

nickleahy23

iTrader: (1)

ya i did the fuse pulling with the multimeter and thats how i came across the radio and seo1 fuses...

I thought I cliped the wire for that amp when i installed the stereo because i wasnt getting sound to the rear. im going to start by unhooking my screen and see if thats drawing..it is 4 years old

nickleahy23

iTrader: (1)

suburbazine..i think thats my problem

copied from another site-

2000 NBS Tahoe.. Ive been getting a draw on my battery and i traced it to these wires..SEO1 and RADIO both have something to do with these..what are these wires for? do they go to the speakers? when i unplug this plug, my draw goes away.

The truck came stock with a sub in the rear and some amp somewhere. I have to have an ORANGE wire hooked to my remote wire to make things work, which im guessing is to power the built in amp, and for some reason its staying on (im guessing).

Any ideas?

Suburbazine

Those wires are used for OnStar's interrupt trigger to override radio functions to the front speakers. The only way to truly bypass the OnStar audio system is to splice each one of the corresponding in and out speaker wires together at the passthrough subwoofer amplifier (and remove the amp completely). You'll have a few wires left over that go to the sub and to the system disable triggers. You'll notice that if you leave that connector unplugged you don't get any sound from your radio.

I *think* those wires may loop through the rear seat audio controller as well, but I've generally not had any issues from that unit.

nickleahy23

iTrader: (1)

ya when i unplug it, i get no sound through anything but i have power to the deck.

Where is the amp exactly? id rather just wire the speakers straight and take that thing out of the equation.

nothing in the rear works anymore, so im not too worried if something goes through there.

Thanks for the help man, getting sick of having to pull fuses each night

Suburbazine

The amp is located behind the glovebox, in front of the blower, about 15" from the floorboard. It's mounted in a bracket which makes it a PITA to get to, but it's the only box about the size of a CD-ROM drive with 2 connections under there. The the connector with a few wires is your power in and sub out, the connector with all the small wires is the speaker in/out. I recommend looking at a wiring/pinout diagram so you know what wire goes where, because there are multiple wires that are actually the same color and the pin position determines their function.

Your OnStar module should also be unplugged, but getting to it is a real tedious task as it's located under the dash, behind the passenger side airbag. You can also yank the analog cell controller which is located behind the gauge cluster and has the antenna wire connected to it along with the communications bus from the OnStar controller.

nickleahy23

iTrader: (1)

Burbanize, i may have to try unhooking that onstar up in the dash as i still am getting a drain from me SEO1 fuse

well i spent about 3 hours messing with the ******* thing tonight..

Im still at .8-1 amps draw after a few minutes of it sitting. I started by disconnecting the amp behind the glove box, no change. Disconnected and rewired the deck, no change. Disconnected the sub amp, no change.

Swapped the BCM with my one from the other truck, no change, got 0.05 amp draw on my tahoe bcm in the other truck, so its not that i dont think.

I then pulled the RADIO and SEO1 fuse and my draw went down to .05-.1. Dropped 0.0 when i pulled the TBC fuse. This I could live with. I dont know what else I can try messing with? Even with the BCM disconnected im still getting a .8 draw. Im really stumped.

Battery is good, its from this winter. Had it tested again the other day. Alt is fine as it charges the battery back up after a jump start, no draw coming from the alt either.

Suburbazine

The Onstar Cellular adapter is probably worth a shot then. It's behind the gauge cluster near the top of the dash, mounted in a bracket and looks like an aluminum cigar box. You should disconnect the multipin connector from it and see if it solves your issue. Otherwise go for the main Onstar controller (which has a GPS module built in and can pull some power).