SpoolinChevy

I have the cobalts also, the wideband too. The visibility is fine, just bad when i'm turning left, then i just put my hand over the lights I have the 3 gauge pillar because it is easiest to view during a run. The WB is the most important for me, so i put it on bottom. I have to monitor my boost gauge frequently, because my tune is lean, but i usually just pay attention to the wideband. Here's a pic of my setup.

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

Oooh! Purdy. How'd ya get that purple look on the ring, or is it reflection? Was install hard? I'm worried about pulling headliner, less so on the pillar. I don't care if I have to paint match, I'm cool w/painting. Man, do I wanna install some chit. I could do gauges w/o spending $. Unless I buy pillar mount, &/ or O/H SoCal unit. An upgraded cluster is down the road( after GM gives me a new one). Gremlins. That looks so good!!!

Do u have another pic(s) of rest of dash setup?

SpoolinChevy

Thats just a reflection from the needle. Install wasn't too bad. The boost gauge fitting on the back gives you barely any room on the back of the pillar, so i used a 45 degree fitting to get it out a little bit. I just put one screw in and some padding on the bottom because i didn't re-use my stock pillar. I still have the stock cluster, just Blue LED's. Here's a picture of the pod, it was with my phone so it isn't the best. I don't have the little push lock things in yet, so thats what the little black holes are.

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

I like your thought process. Gauge use the most in best sightline. It's an illusion probably, but top gauge looks bigger. IIRC, no Cobalts in 2 5/8" only small size.

Yours are all electric gauges or is boost mech.? So u used Autometers' pillar?

Pic no worky. Just red X.

SpoolinChevy

Ya, its a big enough rush for me down the track, i don't need to be looking up at the o/h console. I guess it's just the angle, because the fp gauge looks bigger in both the day and night shots.

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

There it is. I see it like this. Mount 3 in pillar( the ones I'll use the most & regard as critical). FP, Boost, & W/B. The overhead will house a DPIC to play w/. Only 1 other gauge will go there. If I upgrade to SS Cluster or similiar, it has tranny temp. in dash. If I stay w/ my cluster, Trans.temp goes in O/H. There's only 1 fault w/ the 5 gauge plan(3 on pillar, 2 o/h.) If I don't hit my ET goal, now I gotta get a 6th ga. I want a NOS to be hidden from view if it escalates to this.

SpoolinChevy

Hmm, i would go ahead and put the tranny temp up top. If you do end up needing nitrous you can always remove it and get the cluster. You want the gauge to be hidden, or the nitrous setup?

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

Well, GM sent me of them recall cards for my cluster. I'm not puttin an SS cluster in til after they give me a good stock replacement. I bought the darn truck new w/ a cluster in working order. I don't care if I shelve it, I'm gettin 1. I don't wanna upgrade to SS cluster( w/builtin TT gauge) til; after they square me away. Funny huh? Stock til 72K miles(warranty over); I'm @48K now.

Both. No clues.

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

My Goals: Hit an ET, not a dyno #. Bump up the FUN FACTOR. It'll still be a truck, just an all around better performer. Better Accelerating, Braking, & Handling.

-Suspension:Almost done. Keep Hotchkis TVS, put my QA1s @ rear. Keep stock shocks on front, for now. Edelbrocks going in when I find $150. The QA1s will go on soon, now that the weather broke. I wasn't going thru winter w/QA1s on. The dbl adj.ones too. I don't see getting QA1s on front, who knows.
By winter, I'll get IAS for rear & swap out QA1s. Ya, extra work, I know. I'm not running QA1's due to winter corrosion. If I get my other truck going, I won't need to do this dreaded swap season-season.

***Caltracs. For traction. Jury still out on this. Don't know if I wanna tweak Hotchkis to make the 2 compatiable. Or if they co-exist. I've read a few of ya'll tried this w/ mixed results (some yes/ some no).

-Brakes. Baer 4piston, more than likely 6. Start @ 13" rotors minimum. If I have my way, 14"-6 piston. Use 18" wheels to clear. If I go for broke on brakes, 15" rotors- 6 piston. At that point, I'm forced to go to heavy 20"s. I want drag race 1st, handling 2nd. Stay light w/ 18". American Racing, Budniks, Centerline, a few others, something nice. I'll sacrifice $ for something a bit lighter. Only go to a 20" for BIG BIG Brakes. Same brands. Truth be to told, I like Black RT-S's & Factory satin SSS 20", but both are heavy.

Brakes are very integral to the build. I want it to stop as good as it goes, or better stopping. I love confident, over the top whoa power.

-Tires. decent All Season w/eye on traction.

-Interior. Gauges. Other custom touches, no hints.

-Exterior. Some touches, to Cowl Hood or that real wide lookin hood. Roll pan, ********/Snugtop/or maybe...Undercover Tonneau. Billet Grille & new bumper cover. This may get $$$, since I may add a twist.
Paint. I have 3 schemes in mind. Tasteful yet not busy. I wish I could incorporate all 3 ideas, but will need to pick 1 so it is again...not too much.
I'll correct what was done, what should've, & then fog on. Only paint I'll send out is if I feel a graphic is beyond me. I love this part.

A tall $$$ order, but if done this way, w/quality parts/work = my dream fulfilled.
**POST UP**

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

I should mention this. I'm not made of $. This will be a ongoing build, years in the making. Right now, I have the time, but light on funds. When my job improves, I have no time, but more $. Mon-Fri @ peak work, only leaves weekend to tinker. Work days when busy, leave @ 8am, home @ 8:30PM.

Don't all projects work that way? 2 things that affect are time & money.