Well, I still want the 2" rake that is stock so I'm going with a 3/3 drop.

Is it alright to just use the 3" lowering spring for the front? It's the cheapest way. Will it cause any problems just using the spring?

In the back I'm going to use a rear hanger and shackle kit.

I'm going to go ahead and get the Hal shocks for the back and just get some standard lowered shocks for the front.

I'll probably order the stuff early next week. I also found a set of those Chevy wheels I like for $300, beats the ~$1200 the dealer wants for a set <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Thanks

John

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XLR8NSS:
<strong>Well, I still want the 2" rake that is stock so I'm going with a 3/3 drop.

Is it alright to just use the 3" lowering spring for the front? It's the cheapest way. Will it cause any problems just using the spring?

In the back I'm going to use a rear hanger and shackle kit.

I'm going to go ahead and get the Hal shocks for the back and just get some standard lowered shocks for the front.

I'll probably order the stuff early next week. I also found a set of those Chevy wheels I like for $300, beats the ~$1200 the dealer wants for a set <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Thanks

John</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">3" drop springs are what I have and are the cheapest way to do it. I would recomend spindles if you are planning a lot of road time. With springs, be very cautious of the ball joint boots. The B/J are $70 each and the upper only comes with the arm to the tune of $125+. You don't really need drop shocks IMO just remove the bump stops. Yes drop shocks would be better, but I have stock size on mine and it rides just fine. With springs, I would also recommend cushions on the upper(already there stock) and the lower to prevent rattle. BTW, I have a 3/4 drop and it has a nice rake to it. Look at my pics in the sig.

 

So just doing the springs should be OK. If somebody made a 3" spindle I would do that but, the spindles are only good for 2" drops. I really don't want to buy spindles and springs. Why the recommendation of spindles for alot of road time? What type of ride do you get with just the springs? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I was thinking about a 4" drop in the back but, I want to leave a little extra room for the rear to squat. I'll have to look and see what type of clearance there is with a 4" drop.

Nice truck! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

John

 

I would like to eventually upgrade my 0-2 to a 2-4 with spindles, shackles and hangers, but I am worried about the back bottoming out. Every now and then I have to haul a heavy load, which bottoms out with my 0-2. Has anyone here put a bolt-on 2 or 3 inch frame notch over the axle?

 

A 4" drop on the rear w/o a C notch won't give much room at all when you have a load. Another combo would be 3" lower control arms. The spindles would be my choice, because it dones not affect the geometry of the suspension. With the 3" springs (in my case) I am maxed out on alignment w/o getting longer tie rod ends and drop springs do ride a little stiff. Cheapest route- springs. Best IMO spindles. I thought I have seen a 3" spindle somewhere, but don't remember where.

Greg

 

who makes a 2in spindle drop? djm?
i was thinkin hotchkis 2/4
but i want a decent ride

what does djm use for its 4/6 drop in the front?

so the spindle is the best, the LCA hurts the geometry?

 

DJM uses a lower control arm up front and C-notch flip kit out rear. The lower control arm route is good as it maintains more geometry than just a coil spring. The best, but expensive, is to go with a drop spindle and spring. With this 4inch drop setup, you are only changing the geometry by two inches from the coil as spindles don't change geometry (only suspension preload on the coil) If you are doing a flip kit in the rear go with Belltech for sure. The DJM C-notch is weak. For bottoming out concerns use an airbag or cheaper - air shocks.

 

XLR8NSS What year model is your truck? Mine is a 2000 and I found when installing the coil springs that you don't have to undo the ball joints, just remove the two bolts that connect the lower control arm to the frame. The spring will come right out. There is no problem getting the new one in place either. Jus a little info to help you from messin up the ball joint boots. <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> Don't forget realignment!!

<small>[ July 30, 2002, 05:51 PM: Message edited by: MR.MIX ]</small>

 

so what would be the better 4/6 kit?
is the djm with belltech rear decent?

 

Fast 4.8 - I was thinking about it and a 3" spindle would probably require bigger wheels than the stock 16's wouldn't it.

MIX - my truck is a 2000 also. I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and do springs and spindles up front for a 3" drop. In the back I'm going to do a 4" drop with a notch for extra suspension travel. Thanks for the info.

Ryan - I think I'm going to go with all Belltech stuff. I've used it in the past and it is top quality. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I'm not really worried about the rear bottoming out, I just want some room for the rear to squat down and keep the tires loaded when the 422 is trying to tear them apart. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Thanks fellas

John