blowngmc

I have an 06 Sierra Z71 1500. Factory brakes have always
sucked from the day i bought it new. Any good conversion
from drum to disc for it thats worth switching to? Or do i
get about the same stopping power with the factory drums?
Anyone use these? Thanks

GM 02-18 Silverado/Sierra 1500 Rear Disc Brakes

$687.00FREE SHIPPING ON ORDERS OVER $200

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Choose One::I'll Source My Own Rotors (Part Numbers In Description) (-50) Smooth Rotors Drilled/Slotted Rotors (+39)
Choose One:Non-Parking Brake Calipers Black Parking Brake Calipers (+149) Red Parking Brake Calipers (+149) Black Wilwood Calipers (+365) Red Wilwood Calipers (+365)
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adriver

iTrader: (1)

The NBS SUV brakes are better, and you can probably get em for half that. A 13.5 for that, but 13" in the SUV, but with a bigger 2 piston caliper and a bigger pad. This is pretty common, and you should be able to find this, but I'm pretty sure you can just use factory stuff and the only difference is its clocked slightly different.

wardlws

I second the GMT800 dual piston caliper setup! I had that on my '04 RCSB and now on my '12 Escalade. Thicker rotors (no warping, and no fading); even on mountains with a trailer.

Find a salvage yard with them: https://www.car-part.com/ and look for an '03 to '06 Tahoe, Yukon, or Escalade with dual piston rear calipers. Typically, yards won't list (and some illegal to sell) brake parts, but if you find one, you can get most of what you need:

backing plates, parking brake bracket (with caliper mounting holes), parking brakes (shoes, springs, lever, cables), bracket and plate bolts, caliper mounting brackets, calipers, brake lines

I recommend factory rotors and pads, but to there are several good choices here.

Don't forget, new axle seals (if you need them) and differential fluid.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

& a $6 diff gasket. Yeah, that's probably the difference and benefit of using that kit. With factory parts you need to pull the axles out to replace the backing plates. Not sure if you've done that, but that's pretty simple. I think you can rent the tool (free) for the axle seals if you need to at autozone.

RB04Av

Also Suburban & Avalanche.

My 04 Av has the big thick ones. Those, plus 07 stuff up front (1" bigger than the 04 stuff, but fits in the stock 17" wheels) work VERY well.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

FROM WHAT I CAN FEEL, The rears don't seem to kick in until you push harder than your average stop. The majority of braking is done with the fronts, and I think the bias is set to a hair off 2/3rd up front.

I personally don't care for drilled rotors. They aren't designed for your average street driving. The holes are to remove EXCESS gasses away from the brakes. If you aren't driving it on a track, or out earning a reckless driving ticket, then you don't need em for the street. You are removing contact material, that would otherwise cause friction with blank rotors. Blank rotors will stop shorter.

If you want stopping power, especially if you are towing, I hope you know about the hydroboost swap, (will do more than upgrading the rears). I would do the rears and this with fresh fluid and see how you are from there.
Hydroboost Conversion, how to with pics - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums
Hydroboost Conversion Install - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums