get a clue dude......

 

First of all........ You can buy that 2" "water pipe" from lowes or home depo... some things they make sewer line with .... What you use in a real racecar is seamless tubing that cost about 3-4 times as much is over 1/2 the weight and nothing to "bend" or flold if you do have a problem Also that isnt a "sketch" i took a pic of the NHRA rules for 7.50 and it doesnt need an " X " when it has that in both doors and drivers and passangers ... And yes my truck does have a 5 point harness just like it should with race seats ... But man your EXTRA SAFE since you kept the stock belts and that 5 point harness to keep you in that beast at 70mph on your way to work !!! It takes a pretty bad *** truck to need such a nice cage and a really safe driver to leave that 5 point and the stock belt setup so he can be safe from other drivers !! But it takes a total to have all that in a truck with 260hp

 

man you are so concentrated on using the gay rainbow you missed what was said, those trucks are NOT MINE dumbass!!! since you want to keep going... the factory seatbelt IS DOT approved while the 5 points ARE NOT, again like i already said its a daily driver/ weekend toy, did you go to school?

never said anything about what you posted being a "sketch", i know what it is and how to use programs like it, while you just sit around copying pictures saying they are yours, when in fact they are NOT!!!
you apparently like to make things up!!!
real race cars, like nascar, use thin walled DOM!!!!

when a truck of the caliber i posted is used to its potential it only makes sense to put a cage in it, the factory cab will not withstand a rollover accident, not on the street and not in the dirt, you havent even seen the truck just the inside so you look like an *** making assumptions about things who have NO idea about

you can stay in your close minded box with your thoughts, you are trying to pick a fight with me over nothing, if your gay i dont care, dont throw youre *** flag at me
and omg my LQ4 outs down less HP through big tires...what a effin concept, but it takes"HIGH" skill to drive straight on smooth pavment for 7.5 seconds right? what are you high on while you talk **** in this thread? put the pipe down and just say no, its not working for you

when you order X,XXXft of tubing you pay a lot less than you $8ft, its also cheaper if you buy by the pound, but you wouldnt know that

where the hell did 2"waterpipe come from? DOM IS seamless mild, and not much lower in tensile strength than cromo, but id doubt you knew that, also did you heat treat the whole chassis? it is all tigged right? pre-heat weld-post heat?, again cage design is the most important variable, material is next, but when its not used correctly then you only hurting yourself, physically and finacially

 

Kids, play nice. I think Casey missed part of your post and I think you have no idea who you're talking to. That solidworks rendering is pretty much exactly the cage he has in his truck. Play nice and take it to pms so I don't have to close this poor guys thread.

 

buzzkill...

 

LAWL!

this...

 

those hidden cages are badass , they are overkill for most of us a rules in nhra and class 1 is alot different . much more can happen going those speeds off road.

 

Aside from all the pillow talk that's in this thread...there's actually some good info. I'd like to see more of that hidden cage in the second truck. I probably won't ever cage my truck but if I do it's gonna be hidden like that second truck is.

 

Casey, very interested in the approach your taking, ie no rear back window bars. Please pm or keep posting info.

 

Yawn... My cage is done... complete with an NHRA chassis tag to 7.50 without bars out the back window.... Sorry for my above post and yes the 2nd cage is cool.. but WHY would u install a cage with isnt Legal for anything???... Cages suck... You stand to hurt youself more hitting the bars ... More weight... More money and yes it does look "cool" why have all that and a truck that will not haul ***?