ROLL CAGE ???s
#32
Yawn... My cage is done... complete with an NHRA chassis tag to 7.50 without bars out the back window.... Sorry for my above post and yes the 2nd cage is cool.. but WHY would u install a cage with isnt Legal for anything???... Cages suck... You stand to hurt youself more hitting the bars ... More weight... More money and yes it does look "cool" why have all that and a truck that will not haul ***?
ill find some pics......
#35
first is another shot of the full interior truck
next is jesse james' prerunner
still looking...
im not tryin to make this a offroad thread, just showing pics ive collected of silvy cages
here is another example
http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/.../photo_20.html
http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/.../photo_12.html
google gave me this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...ink-build.html
next is jesse james' prerunner
still looking...
im not tryin to make this a offroad thread, just showing pics ive collected of silvy cages
here is another example
http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/.../photo_20.html
http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/.../photo_12.html
google gave me this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...ink-build.html
Last edited by KleenHall; 03-30-2011 at 05:58 PM.
#36
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any idea on what those cages weigh in at?
most of the drag racers want a safe car/truck but also dont want to add a **** ton of weight . those cages are strong as hell i know and a roll over in an offroad truck is usually alot worse than in a drag strip in a straight line , however ive seen some bad ones but usually in 7> sec cars.
i have to get one done soon and the hidden one would be awesome but to comply with nhra rules for a 10.0-11.49 cage a 6 point cage/roll bar is needed and you have to have the welds visible/inspectable and have the sidebars between your shoulder and elbow , along with the rearover head hoop no more than 6" from the top of your head and the two rear bars need to tie into the frame for additional support but can have bends to an extent. im trying to get the two rear bars to go over and behind the rear seat and into the frame to keep full functionality of my truck . i plan to use c/m to help with weight and bulk . then to wrap it in suede minus the welds and have removable side bars.
most of the drag racers want a safe car/truck but also dont want to add a **** ton of weight . those cages are strong as hell i know and a roll over in an offroad truck is usually alot worse than in a drag strip in a straight line , however ive seen some bad ones but usually in 7> sec cars.
i have to get one done soon and the hidden one would be awesome but to comply with nhra rules for a 10.0-11.49 cage a 6 point cage/roll bar is needed and you have to have the welds visible/inspectable and have the sidebars between your shoulder and elbow , along with the rearover head hoop no more than 6" from the top of your head and the two rear bars need to tie into the frame for additional support but can have bends to an extent. im trying to get the two rear bars to go over and behind the rear seat and into the frame to keep full functionality of my truck . i plan to use c/m to help with weight and bulk . then to wrap it in suede minus the welds and have removable side bars.
#37
idk the weight, if you can figure out how much tube you need then you can find the lbs per foot online, maybe use the masking tape mock up trick to figure out tube placement and estimate total length
maybe you can build your cage/chassis and have it tech'd before finishing it and hiding the tube work, this is allowed in offroad cause usually roofs are cut off to weld 360*, or even just a cutout in the body panel to finish the weld and have it inspected
use these for the door bars
maybe you can build your cage/chassis and have it tech'd before finishing it and hiding the tube work, this is allowed in offroad cause usually roofs are cut off to weld 360*, or even just a cutout in the body panel to finish the weld and have it inspected
use these for the door bars