adriver

iTrader: (1)

I tried to write as detailed a thread I could about what steps I took to make my seats as brand new as possible. Whether you want to replace the drivers side cushion, clean the seats, or repair any non-electrical problems, this should help. I have manual seats, but if anyone has any links, threads, videos, or anything to add for electrical seats, please feel free to add, thanks.

If you wanted to just replace the bottom cushion, it should take about 30 minutes. To clean the seats for me took about a day. If you clean the cushion expect it take more than a day. If you do just the covers, then you can finish in one full day. I would honestly plan on doing one seat per day, unless you want to spend a FULL day on just the covers. At least for me, there was a learning curve on the first one. The second seat (with cleaning the cushion) started in the morning and ended late. If you're brave enough to throw them in the washer, dryer, or use a dry cleaner, then this will go quicker. My timeline, (and the majority of it), is to allow for air-drying.

I wrote 99-02, because I know the 03-06/07 don't have the same seat belt mounted on the seat like these do. No clue if these steps will be exactly the same, but my guess is yes. The Avalanche and I think all the SUVs also have an armrest built in. If somebody has something they can add to clarify for the armrest, GREAT. I think it is a completely separate piece, and separate from the cover. If anyone would like to add, I am also curious how difficult it is, or what parts are needed to swap from a body mounted seatbelt to a seat mounted one.

If you are trying to replace the cushions: I searched and searched, and found hundreds of places that sell the driver's side seat bottom cushion only (could only find 1 of the 4, and ranging from $40-$150). The bottoms are shaped different because of the location of the seat belt and the cut of it. Unless you cut off parts of another cushion, (and by some miracle make it fit), it won't fill the cover. The tops are different because of the seat belt. I really believe your only option is to either find used seats, (and at that point you can "upgrade" to a newer seat if that's your preference,) or you need to go find used cushions to replace em with. I think there exposure to the elements and whether or not they have an odor along with the condition of the velcro would be my concerns when buying used ones.

IF ONLY REPLACING THE CUSHION
- First, keep in mind that you will now sit about 1-2" taller with a new cushion. If you don't have a noticeably damaged cushion, and already have trouble seeing some lights, or are over 6ft, you PROBABLY don't want a new cushion. Even if you are only replacing the cushion, you might be able to get away with leaving the seat in the vehicle, but I would still take it out. Its quick, and will keep you from getting awkward when you take the seat apart.


------------ TOOLS ----------------

15 MM DEEP SOCKET (Seat mount tracks front nut)
7/16" SOCKET -(DEEP OR WITH EXTENSION), (Seat mount tracks rear bolt)
13 MM SOCKET (Seat bottom cushion frame)
18 MM SOCKET (Seat belt, lap belt, bottom mount)
2 ZIP TIES (per seat)
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER (Plastic side trim)
FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER (For prying trim)
NEEDLENOSE PLIARS (2 preferred, might not be a necessity, but at least one to undo the C clip holding on the cover).
12MM DEEP SOCKET (not necessary, but used for removing the headrest mounts if removing/replacing back cover)
DEHUMIDIFIER, OR A HOT DRY DAY.
GLUE ((foam to metal & cardboard) If removing the back cushion)
7/64 Drill bit & 9/32 or slightly larger drill bit (POSSIBLY - If you are not using the exact same seat bottom frame).


------------ PARTS ----------------
2 ZIP TIES (per seat)
(DRIVERS SIDE) SEAT BOTTOM CUSHION (OR OTHER PIECES) (if replacing it)
FABRIC/UPHOLSTERY CLEANER / SOAP
SEAT BOTTOM FRAME (most likely) OR OTHER PARTS - IF FIXING



SEAT REMOVAL
- Undo the two front nuts (15mm) and the two rear bolts (7/16").
- Rock the seat to get it off the inside tracks. Lean it in to the cab to unplug the bottom. (Even with manual seats you still have the seat sensor that needs to unplugged and unclipped).
- Now you can pull the seats out.



SEAT DISASSEMBLY
- Once the seats are out and in a good place to work on em, tilt/lay the entire seat (on its) back, (not recline).
- Cut off the zip tie holding on the seat sensor cable. (My seats are manual. I do not know what electronics will have to be removed or moved around from here on out, including the motors). I know you can move the motors with a 12V source, and IIRC you can also advance the motors with a drill bit, but I don't recall which size).
- Undo the clips holding on the seat sensor cable.
- Screw the lumbar adjuster all the way in, and remove the cable from the adjuster, Pull the lumbar adjuster out (its keyed)
- Take off the two 13mm nuts holding on the bottom frame.
- Put the seat up right.
- Now you can lift the seat-bottom-frame bolts out of the bottom tracks, then slide/pull it forward to separate the rear mounts.
- Unscrew (+) the recliner handle (it is keyed, so just pull it off).
- Now you can get to the 4 screws (+) holding on the plastic trim (one is in the back, one was hidden by the cushion).
- Then undo the 3 screws (+) holding the lumbar adjuster trim in.
- Unscrew the seat belt lap belt mount (18mm) and pull it out of the seat bottom.
Once that is off, the lower seat cushion (section) is separate from the tracks and back.



BOTTOM CUSHION
You need to remove the cover. There are four small plastic clips, one longer clip on the front, and 3/4 of the cover is sitting on the lip of the metal frame.
- Undo the four small clips, the one clip across the front, then you can pull the front down a little to give you a little slack.
- Then the big back, and the cover and cushion will separate from the frame, by just pulling it up.

------- CAUTION ------

------- CAUTION ------ THE MOST DELICATE PART OF THIS PROJECT IS: IF YOU JUST RIP THE COVERS OFF THE CUSHIONS, YOU WILL RIP THE CUSHION'S VELCRO, ((or hook and loop #eyeroll,) that holds the cover to the cushion), RIGHT OFF THE CUSHION.

- Hold the velcro down with one hand following it down and separating the the cover with the other, so it doesn't just pull away from the cushion.
- Your cushion, cover, and bottom frame are now all separate. If you are just replacing the cushion, install is in reverse order, (I would suggest you finish reading though. Even if you are only doing the bottom cushion, you should look up into the back and see if your lumbar support is still intact, or you can skip ahead to: "MECHANICAL PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED"). On a 15-20 yr old vehicle I would suggest not skipping any farther ahead than "CLEANING THE COVERS."



SEAT BACK:
- The headrest has a plastic cover over each of the mounts. There is an "overhanging lip" to em. Use a flathead, go underneath and just pop it up from the front and back. The plastic covers will pop up loose.
- Then you can squeeze headrest mount in and pull out the head rest (leaving in the headrest mounts).
- The seatbelt trim at the top of the seat pops out. Slip a flathead in there, and just pry it forward.
- I found it easier to next stand it upside down.
- You start by removing the C channel clip holding on the back cover at the bottom. I used two small needle nose pliers and once started, it unclipped easily.
- You will see a (fragile) piece of cardboard. Its not the end of the world if you rip this thing, you just don't want to. It holds the cover on.
- Undo the two plastic (not sure what they are called) push pins/pop rivets holding in the cover's side straps.
- AGAIN BEING CAUTIOUS - Reach between the cushion and the cover to disconnect the velcro. There are two strips on each side, then a piece between at the bottom/top. Separate these from the cushion, and keep an eye on them until the cover is off.
- Squeeze the cushion bolsters together and in (to avoid pulling the bolsters out and ripping the velcro), and work the cover down, going back and forth alternating each side. After doing this to both seats, and with what is coming up, I found these covers and cushions to be incredibly durable. No where in this process did I damage any part of the seats. (This is about the only part that would have been nice to have a second set of hands for a few minutes so one could squeeze and one could pull).



IF YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE CUSHIONS:
- Use a 12mm DEEP socket and up to 2feet of extensions. Stick the 12mm down and in the seat back, so that it squeezes around the headrest mount clip. You might have to really wedge em on to squeeze the clips, and you might need to pull from the outside, (but I found 12MM was the only size that really worked). I found a few videos that said you can work the cover around the mounts, but if you don't want to stretch the holes, because you are reusing the covers, or don't want to stretch out the holes if putting new covers on, this is quick.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

IF YOU ARE REMOVING THE SEAT BACK FOAM:
- Once the cover is pulled up near the top it is only held on by the headrest mounts. I found it better to go in this order (as long as you plan on cleaning/replacing the cushions): Use a blade, (I first tried a heat gun, and that immediately caused the foam to crumble), then cut to separate the glue that is holding the cushion on to the cardboard backing and the frame in single direction cuts. There are two more of those push pins (one each side) on the side of the frame holding the cardboard backing to the frame, (that are under the foam cushion). The foam cushion will not just come off, because it is formed around the holes for the headrest. You should get it to where the foam is no longer glued on, and the cardboard is loose(, as long as you plan on cleaning or replacing the cushions. This way will give you a little more room to reach in, and have less chance or ripping the cardboard backing). With all that loose you should be able to reach in and just squeeze the clips in by hand to remove them. At this point you pull the seat belt through and the: seat, back cushion, and back cover should all be separate.



CLEANING WARNING & DISCLAIMER - NOW COMES THE FUN PART!!!! (I'm definitely being sarcastic).
I honestly think that after doing all this on both seats, I think the cushions themselves are probably 90% of the work, and MIGHT be 5% of the problem. If you're truly that bored go ahead and have fun, but in hindsight, I definitely would not have done them, and I wouldn't do them again. At least not until I did the covers only first, put it all back together, tried it out for a little while, cleaned the carpet, then replaced the headliner. Only after all that will I clean the cushions again. If by some reason I do this again, I would add something to the water on my final rinse. A week after I finished, my truck was outside at someone else's house. We walked outside, and they said "does it smell like laundry soap out here?". I told em what I did, we laughed, and they said okay, yeah fresh laundry. I think to the final rinse I would find some type of scented oil: orange, pine, eucalyptus, etc.. Or more likely, after its all clean, just leave it hanging next to a smoker for a day. For now, going from funky to clean is good enough for me. (Now I wonder, WHY have I never seen car fresheners in: steak, bbq chicken, and ribs????)


CLEANING CUSHIONS - (THE ONLY WARNING is to be cautious of the velcro).
- The way I did it was in the bathtub. I started with a half-cup of detergent that was probably too much, mix it in with water, submerge your cushion and enjoy walking on your cushion for the next 20 minutes, BEING CAUTIOUS OF THE VELCRO. I did walked on it when it was velcro side up, and stepped on the bolsters from outside in. I picked up an extra cushion to practice this on, and I was surprsed how durable the seat foam is. - After the cushion is nice and soap filled, now you need to rinse it. This is the ridiculous part that took me several hours to do. Clean water, walk on for ten minutes, drain, spray out tub, refill with fresh water, and repeat (5-10 times or more). You can stand the cushion up, soak it, and try to hand wring out. I repeated that process probably a dozen times to rinse the soapy water out of the cushions. It took me about 3 hours for each cushion. Once you feel this is rinsed enough, you can wring out the sides and thick parts by hand to just remove some of the water and make drying them quicker, then its ready to dry.
- I set the cushion on top of a plastic laundry basket, then put it outside on top of the basket, with the velcro side up. When I put it outside, it was 45% humidity on a 75 degree today, it was about 2/3 - 3/4 of the way dry after a few mid day hours of sun. If you can, every hour or two, you will want to go out and wring out the edges and squeeze it, especially the thicker parts, to help it dry much quicker. Even after it setting outside for a few hours its still decently wet. If you can start it early enough to get most of they days sun, especially if its low humidity, that might be enough to dry it out. Mine wasn't and I have a dehumidifier I planned on using. I basically transferred it into a small room with the dehumidifier and kept wringing every few hours as I went on to do the covers. I also tried just using a few hot towels out of the dryer, and squeezing the cushions in them. A few warm towels, then back in the dryer or outside, and that will help dry it quicker too. It still took nearly a full day for each cushion to completely dry.


CLEANING THE COVERS
- I first tried to get them drycleaned, but the first place wanted me to sign a waiver, then when he asked the boss, she said they wouldn't even try. The second place told me they wouldn't do it, and so that was enough NOs for me. I tried to use a couple fabric and uphostery cleaners, and really wasn't happy with the methods. I ended up more or less using the same method with the covers.
- I started with soapy water, (completely submerging) the covers, and didn't think the hand brush was cutting it. I was using one of those cleaning brushes that go in your drill on about a 2 or 3 out of 5 power, I promise you I wasn't being delicate with it. I used the brush going all over it with the soapy water for about 10 minutes, drain, clean the tub, fill, and agitate with the drill for another 10 minutes to rinse. I did 4 or 5 rinses on each cover. After that the water was pretty clear. I blotted them dry with a hot towel, and then hung them up in that same small room. I would blot it dry, and then throw the towel in the dryer and once hot keep blotting it to make it dry quicker. The covers themselves took me about 1 1/2 - 2 hrs each to clean and rinse. It makes more sense to start with the back cover first, because it is bigger, two-sided, and it will take longer to dry.


COVER ONLY


OTHER COVER ONLY



-----------PAUSING WORK POINT IS SOMEWHERE BETWEEN HERE (READ THROUGH)--------


I found that while I had all that out, there was quite a bit of dust and other gunk on the tracks. You have plenty of time to clean that if you'd like while everything is drying.


SEAT BELTS (written in hindsight)
- If there is a problem where you need to replace the seat belt, you will need to get to the point of taking off the back cushion. The seat belt is held on by IIRC three bolts (I think they were 18mm). It will come off, and its an easy replacement.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

MECHANICAL PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED - There are several problems I had with the seats being damaged from just normal wear.

THE SEAT FRAME
- (thin metal seat pan the cushion wraps around) seems to have a problem with splitting at the corners. (Both corners were split on everyone they were split on).



When I went to pull one at my Pick&Pull, the first four I pulled the covers off to check, all had the same problem. I took a (sexist?) guess that maybe smaller bodies/lighter women were driving the SUVs. The fifth one I found was half surface-rusted from being exposed, it was electric, and out of a Tahoe but in good shape. I just went with that one, and ended up cleaning off the rust. No part number, but I see em on ebay for about $40 +S/H. On the new one of the wires came off the side. The end wires, sit outside of the end clips that hold it on, so they can slip off. This was another thing I just put in the vise and bent a 1/2" or so at each end, at an angle back, to prevent that. The clips that hold the 'wire cross bars' on also needed a little adjustment. I'll add, that my seat is a 2002 Silverado mechanical seat. The replacement was out of a (not sure of the year) Tahoe with electric seats. I had to drill in three new holes for the lumbar adjuster **** trim cover. Two of the screw holes that were for the screws themselves used a 7/64 drill bit. The third hole was for a unthreaded hole 9/32 or slightly larger will work.

THE BACK, SHAPED-LUMBAR-BRACKET WIRE
- (that hooks onto and into the back frame, that holds on the lumbar support), was broken off on mine where it hooks into the lower part of the frame. I have no idea how long its been broken, but it had cut through the foam. After I pulled a replacement, I look and see cut marks on the new one, in the exact same place my original one was broken. HHMMMMMM





To replace this one, you just pull it off the top, and down 90 degrees, then pull each side out. You just pull it out of the plastic "cups" it mounts in. The one I pulled from a Tahoe was a slightly different shape than my original Silverado one, but it WOULD HAVE worked fine. When I was reinstalling the lumbar piece, that lower tip broke off right at the cut. I was going to put this off a little more and go back to get another one, but instead I just put the S curve on the side into a vice and straightened it out a bit to make it longer to fit. I straightened out then put a few bends in the bottom, so that the lumbar backing won't ride, and a curve at the bottom so I can put the bottom back in the holes at an angle and up so it won't come out. Seems to be working fine. My plan was to use to some JB Weld on those cuts, but I didn't have any, and didn't even get a chance to put the seat lightly together long enough to get to the store.

adriver

iTrader: (1)

--------------- REINSTALLING ------------- (really is just about in reverse order, but I'll type it out)

THE BACK (If you took off the top top cushion)
- As long as the lumbar is fixed and in place, you have the springs for the lumbar and cable reattached, you zip tie the cable at the bottom bar on the back going away from which side the lumbar adjuster is on.
- Put the cardboard backing on over the top, and reinsert the plastic push rivet on each side.
- No clue if the back cushion NEEDS to be glued on, I went and did it. I went along the cushion where the bar sits, and the side bars, (It will be easy to see where the previous glue was touching the cushion). (My gorilla glue has a 24 hrs set time), so I put it back on over the top holes, and used a couple ratchet straps and "other stuff" to lightly secure it, and pull it back on to the frame so it could seat right and set over night. Let the glue dry and set to your time.

-----------AND PAUSING WORK POINT THROUGH HERE --------


(IF JUST REPLACING THE COVERS START HERE
- Put the back cover on, pull the seat belt (including the plastic trim) through the cover. Squeeze the cushion side bolsters in (together and in to not pull on the cushion velcro), and work the cover down side to side. (You can pull the cover clips at the end through once you get the cover all on).
- When the cover is fully on, pull any slack to the front, and adjust it into the right position. Push down on where the velcro attaches, getting some (the rest will attach when you sit in it). (Turn it over), snap in the two side push rivets into the cardboard, then do the main clip holding on the cover. The cover is now attached. (Turn right side up).
- Install the headrest mounts, and seat belt plastic trim. (I hold off on the head rests until the seat is installed in the pickup to give me more room).



SEAT BOTTOM
- Install the lumbar adjuster mount if not already in the frame.
- Put the cushion in the cover and in the general place it needs to be and line it up.
- Start with the big 3/4 side of the cushion, pull it over the lip all the way around, and push in place until it snaps in.
- Then there are four small clips and the middle sized 5th one. One clip gets pulled through the seat belt hole in the cushion.
- The rest of the cushion gets stuffed into the cover, attach the remaining 4 small clips and the 5th one that is the front side.
- Attach the lumbar adjuster trim, then insert the adjuster ****.
- The bottom is ready to be attached. When I installed a new cushion, the velcro didn't want to attach, because the cushion is now pushing up and creating a gap



CONNECTING THE SEAT AND FINISHING
- Pull the seat belt bottom mount through the seat bottom. Install the bottom of the seat belt. It sits between two notches. Flat against the seat bent out, (18mm nut to 39lb ft (Outboard Seat Belt Anchor Nut)).
- Install the plastic side trim with its four screws, and the reclining handle.
- Install the seat bottom. Lay the seat on its back, and put in the back of the seat frame into its notches. Push em down until they kind of snap in. Screw on the two (13MM) nuts, holding the front of the seat bottom frame (to 15 FT LBS).

THE SEAT IS NOW FINISHED AND READY TO BE REINSTALLED IN TO YOUR PICKUP


SEAT INSTALLATION
- Attach the wiring underneath and bolt it down (41 lb ft (nut and bolt)).
- Install the head rest (will only lock down one way). Make sure the mount covers are installed on the posts, then push down the headrest. Try pulling out the head rest to make sure its locked in (if not its backwards). Then push down the headrest post mount covers.


ALL DONE... YOUR SEATS SHOULD FEEL, WORK, SUPPORT LIKE THEY ARE BRAND NEW, AND SMELL EVEN BETTER. Other than wear and tear, they should look brand new too.

HINDSIGHT
- I really can't state how much I detest cleaning the cushions. Unless you have replaced every other bit of interior fabric chasing down a mold or smoke problem, I don't think there's any real benefit. A steam cleaner (, probably professional,) might be an option. You risk damaging them, and I THINK its only because the covers are no longer there original 'tight' velcro attachment, but the cushions might be a hair smaller (leaving a hair of bagginess on the seats until I use them for a little while). Not to mention I probably used several hundred gallons of water and spent 3-5 hrs just cleaning each cushion. Even if I pulled a set of seats out of the junk yard just to have on hand as spares, I would disassemble, clean the covers, fix what needed and put em back together. I will say the foam itself seems to be incredibly durable for being 20 years old. Just avoid high heat, and don't rip off the velcro.

- I would also try to piece together seats to not have down time. P&P seats are $23 (manual). Maybe spend an extra $10 on a spare cover and getting it dry cleaned to test it, or piecing together some of the two toned fabric out of an avalanche, maybe leather. New leather seems to be quite expensive, and you can buy NNBS leather seats for that price. I see good NBS seats selling for anywhere from $200-$700, (which might be an option with either set if you clean both). If your lumbar bracket is out, and this is your only vehicle you either live with it, or half-*** fix it until you can go get a replacement part. If you have cleaned or new covers ready to replace with, (and weren't doing the cushions); you could probably do this in an hour or two, plus glue time.

- I didn't clean or even take out the center jump seat. I doubt mine has been used much (only a couple times by me, and especially not with my manual). That might have been simple. I did fix and clean the lock, and replace the lid (Here's the youtube video for that:
( ).

- I've never thought I had a real problem with the seats. I know I can swap in NNBS seats for "an upgrade," but my seats now feel, smell, work, and almost look brand new, and it cost me about $60 ($40 something was the cushion, $10 was the new pan and lumbar bracket). The seat has a different seating position. I noticed how fixing that tear in the seat frame has made the seating position more reclined by elevating my thighs. I know also have to stuff my *** back in the fold of the seat or I feel the top bar of the back's frame more. HOWEVER, when I do, and was able to adjust the lumbar, I DEFINITELY sit more supported. I think this is the first time, my gut is relaxed when I try to sit up. If you lounge lazy in the seat, this might make things worse. If you sit up-right in your seat, then making sure its fixed will definitely help. Considering mine was broke, and I had to pull four or five more seat bottom frames before I found one that wasn't broken, my guess is most of them are.

- I'm very happy with the results. I always prefer to drive with the windows down, and now I don't have funky order that I have gotten accustomed to in my vehicle, that have been overpowering most every other smell. I noticed quickly I am smelling more things along the drive (good and bad. Examples: I am smelling flowers and greenery along my drive that I have never smelled before, but then theres a drive-thru that I have been going to for years, and now I can smell their dumpster while in line that I have never noticed before).

- When I look at the two side seats compared to the jump seat (that I did not clean), I do not see any material difference (as in, I don't think I discolored or faded my clean seats in any way by doing this).


DIRTY COVER


FINISHED SEATS





SPECS FROM 2002 SERVICE MANUAL

silentbravo

iTrader: (1)

Very nice guide. I cleaned my bottom front cushions last year and replaced driver side foam. Was pretty easy all around.

I didn't remove my covers though, just soap and warm water while in place and then shop vac'd them as dry as possible + blotting with towel, and finally left a window fan on inside during the hot day. They were dry by end of day. Probably not super clean, but actually noticeably cleaner doing it the lazy way. Surprising how much dirt gets in there.

dantheman1540

Nice write up!