Sticking Door Locks!
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Sticking Door Locks!
I currently have a problem with sticky door locks. When I unlock the truck, my driver's door will open, but when i hit the button a second time, there isn't enough there to unlock the other five doors (rear cargo doors). If I hit lock and then unlock quickly, they used to unlock, but that trick doesn't cut it anymore. I don't think it's a battery related problem because I have two yellowtop batteries that have waaay more than enough juice to power a couple measly locks lol.
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I have a hard time believing all five actuators are bad at one time because I've seen this two other times on Suburbans and I've never even seen an actuator failure on a 2 door setup. Both times the customers wanted a new key fob programmed. On the first suburban none of the locks worked at all. The drivers side might try to move a hair but that was it so there was no point in programming the key fob. Customer didn't want to fix the inoperative door locks either. The second time the customer had just bought this suburban from us. It was a 99 OBS, fairly low miles in good shape. Door locks had been working flawlessly. I jumpered the two pins on the ALDL, the locks cycled once and died. Same deal, the drivers side would try to work a little but wouldn't and the rest were all dead. 5 door lock actuators don't just die at once. It has to be a voltage issue and the locks are controlled by one big relay up under the dash on the drivers side. The remote control door lock receiver just grounds the control side of the relay as needed to lock or unlock the doors so its no the receiver. The relay had a strong steady 12 volts but I don't recall the condition of the ground circuit. Assuming it was ok since it grounds under the dash on the left or right side of the defrost vents. I was fairly confident the relay had died but I didn't have a spare to try and I had an irrate customer on my hands for me having killed his door locks. He was scheduled to come back the following monday to get it fixed free of charge (sales dept would pay for it) but he never came back. I don't know if it started working again or he just gave up on us or what.
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I replace door lock actuators all the time. In all actuallity, I would say at least one case a week, ranging from 1998 models up to the 2009 models. Some you can get the actuators seperate like the 98's but most now from 2001 up, you have to replace the door latch (lock) assembly.
You can check the ALDL and see if it's failing but, that's an expensive diagnosis at a GM shop. But probably no more expensive than replacing 4 actuators.
I'd swithc door actuators around and power them to see if they are infact actuating, then you can narrow it down from there.
You can check the ALDL and see if it's failing but, that's an expensive diagnosis at a GM shop. But probably no more expensive than replacing 4 actuators.
I'd swithc door actuators around and power them to see if they are infact actuating, then you can narrow it down from there.
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As a matter of fact, yesterday in the shope here, I just had to do a Warranty Claim on a 2007 Escalade. It had the drivers front, drivers rear and passenger front door lock actuators defective. 3 out of 4 lock actuators.....and I did the passenger rear door 3 weeks ago. So basically thats every door lock actuator on the vehicle , has failed.
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The driver works everytime perfect. The rear hatch door lock works perfect too. The other three take four or five times to come up, and sometimes never do...still sound like actutators?
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I have an old aftermarket alarm with power locks installed, the drivers side recently has lacked enough power to lock itself with the fob. I have to manually lock that side. I was thinking of getting a new alarm, but maybe I can replace the actuator?