subwoofer setup question
#1
subwoofer setup question
now i don't want anything too over the top, just something i can feel and at a reasonable price. maybe a few 10's. i truly don't know what to look for when shopping for stuff. it's a regular cab with a new jvc head unit. what kind of box, speakers, amp...should i be looking at?
#3
Originally Posted by TXsilverado
all your guna get is alot of opinions on this one. just dont forget that you get what you pay for.
Sooo true!
Probox makes an enclosure for your truck. I have one on order and will let everyone know how it fits here in the next few weeks.
If you're not looking to spend a grip of cash then a single "shallow" 12" sub, good multichannel amp, component set for the doors and a decent cd player would work well and keep you between $1300-$1800 installed. Obviously you can go even cheaper but IMO you'll usually end up with crap. I'm biased though since I been selling mid-high end stuff for 11yrs. LOL
#4
i have a custom made box for my truck and my seats sit well with it. i also have in it 2 jl w0's with a rf451s power series amp that's bridged to 500. speakers and box were like $300. sounds great with all kinds of music
#5
Originally Posted by renegade4e
now i don't want anything too over the top, just something i can feel and at a reasonable price. maybe a few 10's. i truly don't know what to look for when shopping for stuff. it's a regular cab with a new jvc head unit. what kind of box, speakers, amp...should i be looking at?
#6
Originally Posted by loud5.3
If you could squeeze about 2 cu ft out of the box, I would go with a single 12 ported tuned to about 32-34hz. There are so many sub options out there that i could ramble on all day. Look for sub with less than 6 inches of mounting depth and power handling in the 400-500 watts range and a good 500 watt amp, and you will be set. If you were closer, I would offer to build the box for you for cheap. If you have anymore questions, PM me.
Remember though that not all subs can be ported that low without having trouble. Some of the subs I sell have a high Fs and 32hz ported frequency could be trouble, especially without a subsonic filter. You also have to specify RMS wattage and voltage. If the guy knows nothing about car audio he may just look for a "500watt" amp. You and I both know that there is a WOLRD of difference bewteen a Jensen "500watt" amp and a JL Audio 500watt amp. LOL
The JL 12w3 would probably work nicely. It is a 300w rms sub. Is kind of deep but doesn't have a vented bump plate like most subs so you can actually build the box very thin and have part of the back of the speaker sitting outside of the box and simply fiberglass or silicone it to seal the gap air tight. That saves you about an 1" of mounting depth. Plus they have a low Fs so it can be ported with great results and they hit fairly low compared to an equivilent Rockford or Kicker.
#7
Originally Posted by F8L Z71
Remember though that not all subs can be ported that low without having trouble. Some of the subs I sell have a high Fs and 32hz ported frequency could be trouble, especially without a subsonic filter. You also have to specify RMS wattage and voltage. If the guy knows nothing about car audio he may just look for a "500watt" amp. You and I both know that there is a WOLRD of difference bewteen a Jensen "500watt" amp and a JL Audio 500watt amp. LOL
The JL 12w3 would probably work nicely. It is a 300w rms sub. Is kind of deep but doesn't have a vented bump plate like most subs so you can actually build the box very thin and have part of the back of the speaker sitting outside of the box and simply fiberglass or silicone it to seal the gap air tight. That saves you about an 1" of mounting depth. Plus they have a low Fs so it can be ported with great results and they hit fairly low compared to an equivilent Rockford or Kicker.
The JL 12w3 would probably work nicely. It is a 300w rms sub. Is kind of deep but doesn't have a vented bump plate like most subs so you can actually build the box very thin and have part of the back of the speaker sitting outside of the box and simply fiberglass or silicone it to seal the gap air tight. That saves you about an 1" of mounting depth. Plus they have a low Fs so it can be ported with great results and they hit fairly low compared to an equivilent Rockford or Kicker.
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#9
$500 at most. like i said...nothing to shake my doors loose, just enough to give my music some emphasis. oh and i'm about 6'4" so the seat would need to be all the way back.
p.s.- thanks for the discussion too, you guys are helping out a lot!
p.s.- thanks for the discussion too, you guys are helping out a lot!
#10
Originally Posted by renegade4e
$500 at most. like i said...nothing to shake my doors loose, just enough to give my music some emphasis. oh and i'm about 6'4" so the seat would need to be all the way back.
p.s.- thanks for the discussion too, you guys are helping out a lot!
p.s.- thanks for the discussion too, you guys are helping out a lot!