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Summer project: Go faster or handle/hook better

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Old 06-03-2012 | 01:46 AM
  #11  
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horsepower is useless if you cant plant it, with that said theres no other options!!

ladder bar!! esier to set and dont have to change from track to track.
Old 06-03-2012 | 07:58 AM
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OP # 1 with some Drag Radials

What do you want more Corey?, heck yeah its a tough decision.

You'll also need a winter project.
Old 06-03-2012 | 01:40 PM
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Well i am still deciding it is kinda a tough choice. If i do ladder bars or a 4-link it will be mounted on the outside of the frame rails which i have seen done a few times. I am not sure how that would affect the articulation. Then again if i decide to mount them on the inside of the frame rails i will have to swap to a fuel cell, which i will do eventually. So i want to do things in order so i dont waste money redoing the same thing multiple times.
Old 06-03-2012 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackGMC
Well when the wife goes out of town for 3 weeks during the summer I usually do some kinda project... I am having a hard time deciding on what todo this year... My choices are a cam swap and 1 7/8 headers or Ladder bar/4-link, watts link and coil overs.

OPTION 1

Comps LXL lobes
226/230 .605/.609 LSA and ICL to be determined after some math
or
230/234 .609/.612 LSA and ICL to be determined after some math

and TPS Fbody 1 7/8 headers
Texas Speed 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers


OPTION 2

36" BATTLE CRUISER LADDER BARS - ADJUSTABLE LOWER TUBE by Chris Alston's Chassis Works

or
a custom 4-link

and
a off the shelf or custom Watts link

and
QA1 adjustable coil overs...
The 4 Link Is the best option because its the most universal set up you could do. It will work no matter How many changes you make. The down side is that you might have to make adjustments to dial it in. Usually once you set it up on scales the adjustments are usually minor at the track. Once its set up and dialed in it usually doesn't need to be Adjusted.

The ladder bar is simpler but again you may still have to make small adjustments.

I am not saying you can't run fast with a ladder bar, but there is a point when you can no longer transfer the power effectively with them. You Can't pin point the exact HP range because weight, chassis configuration, ride height an so on all have an effect on it. I believe it has been said that around the 900 hp range in a door car is around the limit. I can't find my chassis books right now to confirm. Keep in mind those around the 3000 pound range.

Originally Posted by silver-mod-o
Ladder bar build

Don't be stuck on QA1 coilovers man, there's tons more options out there. I was looking into a set of Strange's or Afco's myself, honestly QA1's are bottom of the barrel when it comes to coilovers....
Couldn't have said it better. Just make sure you get an adjustable set up thats rebuildable. The affco's are usually popular choice. I went with Koni's double adjustable's on My race car.

Originally Posted by SLCviaAK
Option 2! Make that bitch hook. I say adjustable four link, watts link, top shelf coilovers. Make it ride great and hook. Maybe a truck arm setup like Spoolin. Once it hooks great, boost or spray as next summers project!
Its actually a cross between a ladderbar and a truck arm. More of a high bird ladderbar set up if anything.
Old 06-03-2012 | 06:58 PM
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Hmmm. I thi k i am gonna hold off on the rear suspension stuff until winter. Seems like i have alot of research/educating myself todo on rear suspensions before i dive into it.
Old 06-03-2012 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackGMC
Hmmm. I thi k i am gonna hold off on the rear suspension stuff until winter. Seems like i have alot of research/educating myself todo on rear suspensions before i dive into it.
Good idea. There are a few good books. Some are tougher then others to read and understand.

Jerry Bickel has a book called "Jerry Bickel's Complete Guide to Chassis Performance" and then there is another book called "Door Slammers: The Chassis Book" by Dave morgan

Old 06-03-2012 | 07:13 PM
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BTW Are you still on a 10b ???
Old 06-03-2012 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Good idea. There are a few good books. Some are tougher then others to read and understand.

Jerry Bickel has a book called "Jerry Bickel's Complete Guide to Chassis Performance" and then there is another book called "Door Slammers: The Chassis Book" by Dave morgan

Lol i ordered the Door Slammers book last week . I will check out the other one.
Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
BTW Are you still on a 10b ???
Yep still on a 10bolt. I am not really planning huge power in the future. I just really enjoy learning new things and building stuff. Eventually after i buy a new car for the wife i am going to start building a race car. But that is about a year out
Old 06-03-2012 | 07:41 PM
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If you plan to DD this thing for now, keep it simple for reliability.

Race car suspension is hard on the street.
Old 06-04-2012 | 03:17 PM
  #20  
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I started looking at some 4-link software today, i think i am going to order this:

4 (four) Link Software Program for Drag Racing Suspension

Seems todo everything i will need.


also i have access to a set of scales but just for ***** I looked up some pricing on them... $700-$1000 depending on the features... Kinda spendy....
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