well shes down question is: for how long
11-01-2010, 12:02 PM
#14
you dont have to pull timing,( well not alot ) if you run colder plugs and higher octane fuels..
on a side note, this wasnt your normal engine lol it held its own against any average turbo/procharged truck, the air it took in was phenominal way above the average build, for being a stock short block she actually lasted longer than i or most expected.
Last edited by skeet; 11-01-2010 at 12:10 PM.
new post coming shortly.. with pics
11-03-2010, 08:07 PM
#19
correct, not that its small, we just compromised it with other additives, if you run race fuel, and correct plugs, in my case, i short changed myself, i ran 150 with only 2 degress of timing pulled, but didnt follow through with what i was suppose to do, like change to TR7 plugs, and run 100% race fuel, my biggest mistake was running back to back nitrous passes now im paying for it...
you dont have to pull timing,( well not alot ) if you run colder plugs and higher octane fuels..
you dont have to pull timing,( well not alot ) if you run colder plugs and higher octane fuels..
As for plugs, "TR7"s do not exist however I believe you are suggesting a heat range of "7". For the NGK plugs for our heads, the first digit will be a "B" for the 14mm thread diameter, the second (which is critical for spraying nitrous) should be an "R" which is a non projected insulator (P = projected here), the third is your heat range "7" and the next set of letters is your seat configuration. You may or may not have a digit after that which describes the electrode. If you want to run a heat range of "7" your plug of choice will be BR7EF. As you get colder, most of the plug choices are non-projected so there will be no "R" as the second digit.
Having a projected plug and too much timing while spraying nitrous will cause the ground electrode to become a glowing ember and melt off rather quickly.
If you have a high compression motor you actually may be in the B8EFS range with a 150 shot. Regardless, a colder NON-projected plug is necessary along with enough timing pulled to keep the timing mark on the ground strap away from the apex.
I hope you are up and running as quick as possible. You had one hell of a good running 6.0L. I fully expect even faster times with the next build!
11-03-2010, 10:34 PM
#20
This is somewhat a myth. Reading your plugs will dictate if you need timing pulled or go to a colder plug even more so than looking at a log. FWIW, I pulled 4 degrees for a 75 shot (from my NA tune) based completely on the look of the plug's strap. I did not lose any time in the 1/4 mile by pulling the 4 degrees over leaving it in. I ran a 150 shot and had 10 degrees pulled, running C-16 in the dedicated fuel cell. There are guys (LS1s) running single digits for overall timing when spraying a 175 shot.
As for plugs, "TR7"s do not exist however I believe you are suggesting a heat range of "7". For the NGK plugs for our heads, the first digit will be a "B" for the 14mm thread diameter, the second (which is critical for spraying nitrous) should be an "R" which is a non projected insulator (P = projected here), the third is your heat range "7" and the next set of letters is your seat configuration. You may or may not have a digit after that which describes the electrode. If you want to run a heat range of "7" your plug of choice will be BR7EF. As you get colder, most of the plug choices are non-projected so there will be no "R" as the second digit.
Having a projected plug and too much timing while spraying nitrous will cause the ground electrode to become a glowing ember and melt off rather quickly.
If you have a high compression motor you actually may be in the B8EFS range with a 150 shot. Regardless, a colder NON-projected plug is necessary along with enough timing pulled to keep the timing mark on the ground strap away from the apex.
I hope you are up and running as quick as possible. You had one hell of a good running 6.0L. I fully expect even faster times with the next build!
As for plugs, "TR7"s do not exist however I believe you are suggesting a heat range of "7". For the NGK plugs for our heads, the first digit will be a "B" for the 14mm thread diameter, the second (which is critical for spraying nitrous) should be an "R" which is a non projected insulator (P = projected here), the third is your heat range "7" and the next set of letters is your seat configuration. You may or may not have a digit after that which describes the electrode. If you want to run a heat range of "7" your plug of choice will be BR7EF. As you get colder, most of the plug choices are non-projected so there will be no "R" as the second digit.
Having a projected plug and too much timing while spraying nitrous will cause the ground electrode to become a glowing ember and melt off rather quickly.
If you have a high compression motor you actually may be in the B8EFS range with a 150 shot. Regardless, a colder NON-projected plug is necessary along with enough timing pulled to keep the timing mark on the ground strap away from the apex.
I hope you are up and running as quick as possible. You had one hell of a good running 6.0L. I fully expect even faster times with the next build!
Krambo thanks for taking the time for explaining when you didnt have to, thats true help..Krambo, is c16 a common race fuel that most use? reason i ask i was running 110. as for compression i do push 11:1 i wouldnt think thats high, some may think different, seriously what would you sugguest? also quik mentioned if i ran anything above 150 i would need to go to B8EFS plugs. maybe i should run these on a 150 ahot also? any help would be appreciated.
i'll get the 6.0 running again, i brought the head to work today just to find out its junk, i was gonna do the welding in house since we have a welding specialist that specializing in aluminum welding.. but after cleaning the head and just before we were gonna UV it we noticed a crack just between the exhaust & intake valve.. soooo it looks like i will be looking for another set of heads or maybe one single, i'll probably get both, its just how i am..
but yeah im pretty much gonna run NA on the stock short block for a few more months
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