GMT 800 & Older GM General Discussion 2006 & Older Trucks | General Discussion

well shes down question is: for how long

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-31-2010 | 10:13 PM
  #11  
KDavis04ss's Avatar
TECH Resident
iTrader: (16)
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 790
Likes: 0
From: Brunswick, GA
Default

ready to see what numbers you put up with the new setup. good luck man
Old 10-31-2010 | 10:27 PM
  #12  
skeet's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,157
Likes: 2
From: P.A. TX
Default

Originally Posted by KDavis04ss
ready to see what numbers you put up with the new setup. good luck man
a month ago we were deciding on pistons on what i wanna accomplish, this is still the set back, but im positive we'll come up with something to my liking. the goal is set for 575-600 to the wheels..
Old 11-01-2010 | 12:25 PM
  #13  
TXsilverado's Avatar
Moderator
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 18,324
Likes: 235
From: Humble Texas
Default

didnt i read on one of these forums that you dont pull any timing from your N/A tune for the 100 shot because 100 is small?
Old 11-01-2010 | 01:02 PM
  #14  
skeet's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,157
Likes: 2
From: P.A. TX
Default

Originally Posted by TXsilverado
didnt i read on one of these forums that you dont pull any timing from your N/A tune for the 100 shot because 100 is small?
correct, not that its small, we just compromised it with other additives, if you run race fuel, and correct plugs, in my case, i short changed myself, i ran 150 with only 2 degress of timing pulled, but didnt follow through with what i was suppose to do, like change to TR7 plugs, and run 100% race fuel, my biggest mistake was running back to back nitrous passes now im paying for it...

you dont have to pull timing,( well not alot ) if you run colder plugs and higher octane fuels..



on a side note, this wasnt your normal engine lol it held its own against any average turbo/procharged truck, the air it took in was phenominal way above the average build, for being a stock short block she actually lasted longer than i or most expected.

Last edited by skeet; 11-01-2010 at 01:10 PM.
Old 11-01-2010 | 01:21 PM
  #15  
JFOLM's Avatar
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
Default

Damn that sucks David. It's time to build a bigger and badder engine.
Old 11-01-2010 | 08:06 PM
  #16  
andrew383's Avatar
traveling mod
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,262
Likes: 1
From: so. indiana/texas
Default

That sucks but your next buld is gonna be sweet

Dont know your work schedule but give me a holler if you want a hand
Old 11-01-2010 | 08:57 PM
  #17  
JFOLM's Avatar
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
Default

Originally Posted by andrew383
That sucks but your next buld is gonna be sweet

Dont know your work schedule but give me a holler if you want a hand
Indiana??
Old 11-01-2010 | 09:15 PM
  #18  
skeet's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,157
Likes: 2
From: P.A. TX
Default

well i pulled the heads today new post coming shortly.. with pics
Old 11-03-2010 | 09:07 PM
  #19  
krambo's Avatar
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,609
Likes: 2
From: Bangor, PA
Default

Originally Posted by skeet
correct, not that its small, we just compromised it with other additives, if you run race fuel, and correct plugs, in my case, i short changed myself, i ran 150 with only 2 degress of timing pulled, but didnt follow through with what i was suppose to do, like change to TR7 plugs, and run 100% race fuel, my biggest mistake was running back to back nitrous passes now im paying for it...

you dont have to pull timing,( well not alot ) if you run colder plugs and higher octane fuels..
This is somewhat a myth. Reading your plugs will dictate if you need timing pulled or go to a colder plug even more so than looking at a log. FWIW, I pulled 4 degrees for a 75 shot (from my NA tune) based completely on the look of the plug's strap. I did not lose any time in the 1/4 mile by pulling the 4 degrees over leaving it in. I ran a 150 shot and had 10 degrees pulled, running C-16 in the dedicated fuel cell. There are guys (LS1s) running single digits for overall timing when spraying a 175 shot.

As for plugs, "TR7"s do not exist however I believe you are suggesting a heat range of "7". For the NGK plugs for our heads, the first digit will be a "B" for the 14mm thread diameter, the second (which is critical for spraying nitrous) should be an "R" which is a non projected insulator (P = projected here), the third is your heat range "7" and the next set of letters is your seat configuration. You may or may not have a digit after that which describes the electrode. If you want to run a heat range of "7" your plug of choice will be BR7EF. As you get colder, most of the plug choices are non-projected so there will be no "R" as the second digit.

Having a projected plug and too much timing while spraying nitrous will cause the ground electrode to become a glowing ember and melt off rather quickly.

If you have a high compression motor you actually may be in the B8EFS range with a 150 shot. Regardless, a colder NON-projected plug is necessary along with enough timing pulled to keep the timing mark on the ground strap away from the apex.

I hope you are up and running as quick as possible. You had one hell of a good running 6.0L. I fully expect even faster times with the next build!
Old 11-03-2010 | 11:34 PM
  #20  
skeet's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,157
Likes: 2
From: P.A. TX
Default

Originally Posted by krambo
This is somewhat a myth. Reading your plugs will dictate if you need timing pulled or go to a colder plug even more so than looking at a log. FWIW, I pulled 4 degrees for a 75 shot (from my NA tune) based completely on the look of the plug's strap. I did not lose any time in the 1/4 mile by pulling the 4 degrees over leaving it in. I ran a 150 shot and had 10 degrees pulled, running C-16 in the dedicated fuel cell. There are guys (LS1s) running single digits for overall timing when spraying a 175 shot.

As for plugs, "TR7"s do not exist however I believe you are suggesting a heat range of "7". For the NGK plugs for our heads, the first digit will be a "B" for the 14mm thread diameter, the second (which is critical for spraying nitrous) should be an "R" which is a non projected insulator (P = projected here), the third is your heat range "7" and the next set of letters is your seat configuration. You may or may not have a digit after that which describes the electrode. If you want to run a heat range of "7" your plug of choice will be BR7EF. As you get colder, most of the plug choices are non-projected so there will be no "R" as the second digit.

Having a projected plug and too much timing while spraying nitrous will cause the ground electrode to become a glowing ember and melt off rather quickly.

If you have a high compression motor you actually may be in the B8EFS range with a 150 shot. Regardless, a colder NON-projected plug is necessary along with enough timing pulled to keep the timing mark on the ground strap away from the apex.

I hope you are up and running as quick as possible. You had one hell of a good running 6.0L. I fully expect even faster times with the next build!


Krambo thanks for taking the time for explaining when you didnt have to, thats true help..Krambo, is c16 a common race fuel that most use? reason i ask i was running 110. as for compression i do push 11:1 i wouldnt think thats high, some may think different, seriously what would you sugguest? also quik mentioned if i ran anything above 150 i would need to go to B8EFS plugs. maybe i should run these on a 150 ahot also? any help would be appreciated.


i'll get the 6.0 running again, i brought the head to work today just to find out its junk, i was gonna do the welding in house since we have a welding specialist that specializing in aluminum welding.. but after cleaning the head and just before we were gonna UV it we noticed a crack just between the exhaust & intake valve.. soooo it looks like i will be looking for another set of heads or maybe one single, i'll probably get both, its just how i am..

but yeah im pretty much gonna run NA on the stock short block for a few more months
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ARC
GMT 800 & Older GM General Discussion
57
02-21-2022 11:54 AM
Jblake
GM Engine & Exhaust Performance
2
08-17-2015 01:59 PM
hartinclay
GM Parts Classifieds
4
08-02-2015 07:44 PM
USMCvet0311
INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS
12
08-01-2015 08:45 AM
dantheman1540
Foreign Performance Discussion
1
07-29-2015 05:45 PM



Quick Reply: well shes down question is: for how long



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:01 PM.