What is the cam lift limit on our stock rockers ?
#11
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
Just like I started with, people run well over .600” lift all the time without immediate issues. The issues are just accelerated wear and while there are some long term engines running around, a good deal of them are not, so it’s hard to get an accurate read on all of them. So many people run the stock rockers and appear to get away with it that a whole bunch more will never even consider that there may not be anything going on there and might as well do it too. I will say that if your hell bent on sticking with the stock rockers, that the trunnion upgrade may not be a bad idea, as the stock pieces can spit bearings in an otherwise totally stock engine. It happens fairly regular, where someone finds needle bearings in their oil pan. When it comes to overlooked items, valvetrain pieces show up all the time. Very few people here in past polls and what not have ever admitted to ever even measuring spring pressure and installed heights, and instead just drop in the springs. There again, I’m not going to say it won’t run and hold together, it’s just that by doing so you are starting out with a bunch of unknowns. Your valve-train may experience early valve float due to light spring pressure, all the way up to broken springs, and at the very least you don’t have a base record of installed spring pressures to measure against down the road. Spring pressures drop ever time, especially when tortured within a fraction of their life and while you could just replace them on a regular schedule, if you measured everything for a baseline, as long as the measurements add up, you very well could re-shim them back into spec. Also by performing annual spring pressure measurements, you can also somewhat determine a rate of tension loss to help you in your decision of when replacement will become necessary. Not trying to slap anyone in the face, but how many threads have you seen that either involve pushrod length or lifter preload, it almost would seem like a black art, where it is definitely not. I can’t for the life of me can’t figure out why someone wouldn’t mind putting in the time to install a bunch of parts, but then short cut it by not putting in the little bit extra by measuring everything and making some pretty basic calculations.
Of course I guess this where Pro builders come in and what sets them apart.
Of course I guess this where Pro builders come in and what sets them apart.
good info jarrod, i like the part about spring pressures and necessary measurements as per spring height blah blah blah, yes a pro builder built my motor, i run or did run a 926 comp spring, comp garrantied this spring for the spring pressures we were using and needing, james never used these springs and was skeptical about them, well comp gave us there word its what we needed, noone else had the spring rating we needed , all clearances were mapped out, for every little horsepower generated, it was printed and done. just to have the 926 springs fail yes the 410 nitrous fed motor is done, the spring broke in 2 places, i was using rev valves which are designed to bend, but they didnt the wierdest thing is the valve was pulled from the stem ( broke off) took out the piston and distroyed the head oh yeah as for rockers, jesel was the only company that could garranty me that there rockers would be fine over 7k rpms buty at a healthy price of 1500.00 yella terra adviced me not to use them..
pics will soon follow!
427 in the making!
#12
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Just like I started with, people run well over .600” lift all the time without immediate issues. The issues are just accelerated wear and while there are some long term engines running around, a good deal of them are not, so it’s hard to get an accurate read on all of them. So many people run the stock rockers and appear to get away with it that a whole bunch more will never even consider that there may not be anything going on there and might as well do it too. I will say that if your hell bent on sticking with the stock rockers, that the trunnion upgrade may not be a bad idea, as the stock pieces can spit bearings in an otherwise totally stock engine. It happens fairly regular, where someone finds needle bearings in their oil pan. When it comes to overlooked items, valvetrain pieces show up all the time. Very few people here in past polls and what not have ever admitted to ever even measuring spring pressure and installed heights, and instead just drop in the springs. There again, I’m not going to say it won’t run and hold together, it’s just that by doing so you are starting out with a bunch of unknowns. Your valve-train may experience early valve float due to light spring pressure, all the way up to broken springs, and at the very least you don’t have a base record of installed spring pressures to measure against down the road. Spring pressures drop ever time, especially when tortured within a fraction of their life and while you could just replace them on a regular schedule, if you measured everything for a baseline, as long as the measurements add up, you very well could re-shim them back into spec. Also by performing annual spring pressure measurements, you can also somewhat determine a rate of tension loss to help you in your decision of when replacement will become necessary. Not trying to slap anyone in the face, but how many threads have you seen that either involve pushrod length or lifter preload, it almost would seem like a black art, where it is definitely not. I can’t for the life of me can’t figure out why someone wouldn’t mind putting in the time to install a bunch of parts, but then short cut it by not putting in the little bit extra by measuring everything and making some pretty basic calculations.
Of course I guess this where Pro builders come in and what sets them apart.
Of course I guess this where Pro builders come in and what sets them apart.
Thanks for the info. I myself has been curious about preload, spring pressure, and installed height. It is definitely something I want to get familiar with before my build. Just so I can have the reassurance I am doing it right.
good info jarrod, i like the part about spring pressures and necessary measurements as per spring height blah blah blah, yes a pro builder built my motor, i run or did run a 926 comp spring, comp garrantied this spring for the spring pressures we were using and needing, james never used these springs and was skeptical about them, well comp gave us there word its what we needed, noone else had the spring rating we needed , all clearances were mapped out, for every little horsepower generated, it was printed and done. just to have the 926 springs fail yes the 410 nitrous fed motor is done, the spring broke in 2 places, i was using rev valves which are designed to bend, but they didnt the wierdest thing is the valve was pulled from the stem ( broke off) took out the piston and distroyed the head oh yeah as for rockers, jesel was the only company that could garranty me that there rockers would be fine over 7k rpms buty at a healthy price of 1500.00 yella terra adviced me not to use them..
pics will soon follow!
427 in the making!
pics will soon follow!
427 in the making!
Damn David. When did this happen?
Who is owning up to this failure? Or are you just out of luck?
#14
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
Ben said it all, theres no one to blame maybe myself if anything, i should have gotten the valves i wanted but i didnt, thinking my REV valves were only 1.5 years old and hardly no miles but alot of track passes, i thought they would with stand the seat pressure that was calculated with this build, im sure they would have for a while if they were new, they were reccomended as to everything else.. the valve has been sent to rev cause they asked for it, the spring was sent back to comp caused they asked for it, im not looking for any compensation though it would be nice but it aint gonna happen, it did tear the piston up and distroyed the head, we'll be tearing the motor down tomorrow and checking things out.. REV valves are designed to bend if they ever hit the piston, this was NOT the case, the valve broke at the seat and stem, the stem isnt even bent it slides in the guide just fine, i can guess all the slamming shut could be the the main problem everyone i have talked to said the spring broke after the valve broke.
failure that was mentioned, metal fatique on the valve was the main one, NO one has seen a valve break like it did and i asked several builders so did James..
anyway sorry to ***** your thread OP, this needs a thread of its own
failure that was mentioned, metal fatique on the valve was the main one, NO one has seen a valve break like it did and i asked several builders so did James..
anyway sorry to ***** your thread OP, this needs a thread of its own
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