CHEVY6000VHO

iTrader: (2)

Will this one work?

https://www.mactools.com/portal/site...extfmt=default

Jim

TurboGibbs

iTrader: (6)

LOL! I have one but I rarely use it. If you insist on doing it like a GM tech that has unlimited access to job specific tools that he didn't pay for then you better pay the bucks. But a pry bar through the balancer or a friend with a prybar or large scewdriver will save you money and do the job.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

18" 3/8" extension stuck up through the inspection cover on the bellhousing and wedged(by turning crank) against the edge of the bellhousing works well too.

Does the Kent Moore tool work through the starter area?

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

Someone has to make a flexplate holder that has 2 teeth that goes in the bell hole to grab the flexplate.
Turbo,I have question i have been waiting to ask ,I figure you would know.I am dropping in a 6.0 in a 92 k15 that had a 4.3 W/5sp,I am using the OE 5sp.
I have a almost new 2k 6.0 crank (long flange),thats what I need to use right? and the 4.3 flywheel will go on this crank right?

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

I have done that when I had know one to hold the flexplate,it felt like I could easily tweek the flex plate with the extention wedged in there.

TurboGibbs

iTrader: (6)

I always loved a good thread whoring! Honestly i'm new to the gen3 mods but from my previous knowledge the crank did stick much further out from the belhousing mounting surface than the late gen3's. From what my best guess would be is the gen1/2 style tranny should work fine with the early long rear flanged gen3 crank. They also used a spacer on the cranks after they shortened them for use with the older syle trannys. My best guess would also be that you would need a gen3 style flywheel. My 2005 4.8 used a pressure plate with the same bolt pattern as a 65 chevy. I put my 05 clutch on my 95 truck flywheel and am still driving it today. Anyhow, I don't know some of this info for sure but just giving where I would start if I were in your shoes.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

When I did my cam swap, I used a nylon strap wrench, wrapped around the crank pulley and wedged against the frame, that I bought at a local tool warehouse for about $28ish. It looks like the picture below, but with a longer strap and handle...



I also have a big chain wrench that will work, but it will gouge the pulley which will more than likely cause damage to the belts and premature belt failure

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, that has been my only concern doing it that way. So far so good but, a nice holding tool would definately be much nicer.

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

Check the pic (upper left corner)... bolts in place of the starter...

Bill

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

Aides in the removal and installation of the crank bolt on Gen III engines.
This tool allows the factory torque (240 pounds) to be attained to seat the pulley properly.
Works with the following engines: 1999 and later GEN III 4.8L V-8, 5.3L V-8 and 6.0L V-8 trucks and SUV's.