Its a TTY bolt the 240 is to stretch it .....

 

Not true. You have to use the OLD bolt to reinstall the pulley. Crank it down to 240 to fully seat the pulley (since its a press fit). Not doing it all the way could not seat it fully. Then you use the NEW bolt and crank it to 34 + degrees.

 

that's what I was figuring as well. makes sense to me. I'm thinking you wouldn't want to stress the bolt you're going to install to those levels anyhow. that's an *** load of stress on a bolt, I don't care what kind of bolt it is. But, these ones seem pretty hard, so it may not even matter.

anyhow, please carry on. I can only hope that this thread will linger, and those that try this swap learn from my mishaps. that's my whole reasoning to begin with. If my ranting has helped but a single person take more care in the installation of a powerbond, than i'll be happy.

 

Bummer

 

I'm not so sure I like that idea. That looks like it'd put a lot of stress on the idler pulley and potentially bend something or hurt the bearing inside of it. Unless of course you don't care. I haven't seen a crank pulley bolt yet that I couldn't just break loose with my impact gun. No flywheel lock needed.

 

i use the same method, but wrap around the power steering pulley. it works perfect and i havent hurt anything yet.

 

Heres a pic from another site that someone did to keep the pulley form moving

Just a chain with a S hook. the other end is hooked up to the lower control arm.

 

That is the better set up right there. I like it.

 

yea, its what I'm planing to do when I do my cam swap. Just have to make sure the chain and S hooks are strong enough, and wont bend or break

 

I don't know why you would need a 25" breaker bar, my 18" breaker fits inside a 3' cheater pipe just fine!