Tootall

iTrader: (79)

I did a turbo kit, 80e swap and cam install on a 2008. Got everything bolted back and ready to go, and it won't stay running.

It's still on the previous DOD delete tune from a previous cam swap, along with the 60e tune

My question is, is the segment tune for the 80e a must to make it "run?" I'm just wanting it to fire up to check for leaks.

When I crank it and runs for 1-2 seconds and dies, it has 40+ psi oil pressure. I deleted both VATs, but I haven't verified that the fuel pump is being killed.

What am I missing?

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

How different is the cam? Both coil packs plugged in? No you shouldn't need have to do the 80e segment for it to start and idle. Try adding 15% to the base running airflow table to see if it stays running.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

OK

Old cam was 224/230 .581 .592 -110

New cam 228/232 .601 .595 112

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Thats close enough it should idle just fine...when it starts does it surge then die or just kind of stumble then die?

foxnutz

Have you checked the MAF sensor or wire running to it. If it is speed density, sometimes the e38 will not fail the MAF and switch to speed density.

Also I ran my 4l80 with the 4l60 tune. I drove to a guy to write the 4l80 tune before I had EFI Live. It just puts it in limp mode (2nd gear only).

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

it runs and then shuts off as if you're turning the key off. Fuel pressure stays at full PSI, it does not drop
I hooked up the MAF, but it's the same, with or with out it.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

here's the tune and the log that I'm using.
I did not tune this truck, it was tuned by a local guy named Chuck Anders.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

here's what it's doing

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Looks like it needs more fuel in it. O2s didnt even flinch, they should go pig rich on a cold start.

They are hooked up, correct?

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

driver's side is, and the passenger side is not. It's getting WB tonight.