60e to 80e swap
LA Skinny Jeans!!! LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!
"Don't be scared, just juice that bitch"......
08-24-2012, 08:14 PM
#33
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Just curious, why is info pm'd, when all could benefit from it? I can find info about this swap all over the place for NBS trucks, but can't find the same quality info for the newer trucks. I'll keep doing my research. 
08-25-2012, 02:54 AM
#34
I pm'd the info because it is not complete and I am working on putting together a 80e conversion thread for the gmt900 trucks. There is a lot of missing info as of right now so I didn't want to post it up yet. I will send you the info as well if you would like but as of right now it's mainly just the steps to remove and replace a transmission. I want to include pics as well which will definatly take a lot of time. There is info on here as well for the gmt900 80e conversion and a lot of the info on the gmt800s transfers over to the nnbs trucks. This is where I learned to do it. I want to make a more thorough conversion thread. Let me know if I can help in any way.
08-25-2012, 10:36 PM
#37
PLEASE TAKE THIS LIKE A GRAIN OF SALT TILL IT IS COMPLETE. THERE IS ALOT OF MISSING INFO AS WELL AS THE SEQUENCE OF EVENTS BEING NOT CORRECT. I AM STILL WORKING ON IT AS TIME PERMITS. I WILL BE PUTING THIS ALL IN A THREAD SOON TO COME WITH PICS IMAGES ETC. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURIES OR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR. ALSO SOME OF THE NUT/BOLT SIZES ARE INACCURATE. AGAIN IT IS NOT COMPLETE BUT HERE IS WHAT I HAVE SO FAR:
REMOVAL
Disconnect negative battery terminal
Remove hub cover
Break Passenger front wheel lug nuts loose
chock wheels, set parking brake
Property lift vehicle (on level surface) high enough to get transmission jack under the transmission and and use heavy duty jack stands. Idealy, you will want to lift the vehicle high enough to get the remove the transmission from under the vehicle without removing the transmission from the jack. To find this desired height, measure the height of the transmission (It should be between 20-24 inches depending on pan size) and add the height of your transmission jack pad to the floor. Example 24” transmission plus 8” jack height =32”.Now that you have this dimension, you will want to measure the height of you frame preferably under the front doors. Lets say your frame is 12” from the ground at this point, that means you must lift the vehicle 20” plus at least another inch so you will clear the frame when rolling the jack and transmission under your truck. You might have a jack and jack stands that can lift this high SAFELY but if not do not attempt to do so. Do not use crappy jacks or put them at their highest latch. If you have low lift jacks you will not be able to roll the transmission and jack under the truck. You will more than likely have to have the aid of a strong helper to help you lift the transmission up onto the jack while they are both under the truck.
Put oil drain pan (make sure you have a large enough pan or several ready to go especially if you have a deep pan or heavy duty aftermarket cooler) under transmission pan and remove transmission pan drain plug. If you are one of the unlucky ones, you will not have a drain plug and you will have to remove the whole pan (16 11mm bolts).
Mark pinion yoke u bolts and the u-joint to yoke location so you know which way to put them back on. If you don’t put them on the same direction you might get vibrations while driving which will damage drivetrain. Tape the u-joint caps so they do not fall off.
Disconnect all transmission electrical I.E. VSS connector, round transmission connector and NSS connector and any other electrical that will be in the way of transmission removal. cover the connectors so no debris can get inside or on the pins and move to a safe location where it will not be damaged. You can do this with electrical tape. Tie up electrical out of the way with tie wire, electrical tape etc.
Disconnect transmission cooler lines at transmission. Have some plastic zip lock bags and rubber bands ready to hold the bags onto the cooler lines while they drain.
Remove front passenger tire 6 21mm lug nuts
Remove passenger fender well 3 7mm bolts and 6 plastic retaining fasteners
Disconnect starter cables 1 13mm and 1 7 mm
Remove starter 2 13 mm
Remove the two black plastic dust covers connected to the transmission 8mm bolts
Remove torque converter bolts. There will be three or 14mm, 15mm, or 16mm bolts. This can be a little tricky because of the small access area on the passenger side of the engine block. I find it easiest to use alot of extension and a wobble or u-joint adapter to get in this area. You will get the best range of motion if you use an extension long enough so the ratchet will be utilized in front of the crossmember. You might have to remove your crank sensor to facilitate this process. If you don’t have a flexplate tool to keep the flexplate from moving while you are removing the converter bolts you might want someone to put a hold back ratchet on the crank nut (21mm).
Put transmission pan drain plug back in or reattach pan.
Disconnect shifter cable clip. Move shifter cable to safe location where it will not obstruct transmission removal
Put jack under transmission and lift up just a little after transmission jack makes contact with transmission pan
Remove transmission mount bolt 15mm.
Remove cross member 4 21mm bolts and nuts
Slowly lower transmission and observe if any electrical fuel or other items are being pulled by lowering transmission. If they are find a way to disconnect or fix them.
Remove 13mm nuts that attach electrical, fuel lines and breather/vacumm line brackets on the transmission bell housing studs. Fuel line lines bracket are in the 10 oclock position.
Make sure transmission jack is very secure and will not drop transmission before attempting to remove all transmission bell housing bolts.
Remove transmission bell housing bolts 5-6 (depending on engine and transmission year) .There isn’t a bolt in the 2 o’clock position. If your transmission is pre 99’ you shouldn’t have a 12 o’clock bolt hole.
Very slowly lower transmission as you pull transmission back so bell housing does not hit the flexplate. If you do not do this correctly you could damage flexplate ring gear teeth and or transmission bell housing. Be careful that the converter does not fall off.
Lower transmission
Remove transmission from transmission jack. Send it to me. Depending on the transmission jack used in the process and how high the vehicle is you might be able to roll transmission out from underneath the truck without removing the transmission from transmission jack. If you cannot remove transmission jack with transmission secured to it without removing the transmission from transmission jack you will have to take the transmission off of the transmission jack. I find it easy to remove the transmission from the transmission jack with at least 2 or more strong people with the aid of good condition high strength ratcheting tie downs. Remember the 4l80e weighs close to 300 lbs and is very large. If you are using ratcheting tie downs, make sure they are properly fastened to the frame and are not pinching any wiring, cable, fuel lines, brake lines etc. When using tie downs, you will need to make sure they are secure to the transmission and will not slip off while you lower the transmission. You can remove the front pan bolts and attach a predrilled piece of angle iron, or better yet, square tubing to the two outer transmission pan bolts and run the tie down through it. Make sure there are no sharp edges on the angle iron or square tubing or else the burs on the sharp edges can cut the strap which can lead to a smashed skull.
This info is courtesy of Greg "RedHeartbeat" I changed it up a bit but he was a huge help.
4L80E TO 4L60E CONVERSION
Driveshaft mod...
If I’m not mistaken all nnbs/GMT900 trucks/SUV’s came with 1350 u-joints 1350s which is the same as the 4l80e slip yoke. If for some reason you have a 1330 or 1310 u-joint you can buy what’s called a bastard u joint which will fit your stock driveshaft and fit the 4l80e’s 1350 u-joint. It would be best just to purchase a new u-joint even if you already have a 1350 driveshaft u-joint though.
Cross member
The driveshaft can be modified in several different ways to accept the 4l80e. I chose to cut off about 6 inches from each end with a chop saw. I used a 4” x 10” x ¼” thick stock to relocate the center section back. You will need to move the center section about 6” back. There is a slotted hole in the cross member where the transmission mount bolts to so you will have a little wiggle room. I tack welded mine together so that the transmission mount bolt hole was centered with the slot.
ELECTRICAL
Transmission connecter
remove
K(orange) this will go to Input seed sensor (front 2 pin/wire sensor) terminal A
V(light blue) this will go to Input seed sensor (front 2 pin/wire sensor) terminal B
S(white) not used
T(tan/black) not used
Repin to
U(brown) this will go to Pin S
TCM CONNECTOR
Move the low signal wire from pin 45 to pin 26
REMOVAL
Disconnect negative battery terminal
Remove hub cover
Break Passenger front wheel lug nuts loose
chock wheels, set parking brake
Property lift vehicle (on level surface) high enough to get transmission jack under the transmission and and use heavy duty jack stands. Idealy, you will want to lift the vehicle high enough to get the remove the transmission from under the vehicle without removing the transmission from the jack. To find this desired height, measure the height of the transmission (It should be between 20-24 inches depending on pan size) and add the height of your transmission jack pad to the floor. Example 24” transmission plus 8” jack height =32”.Now that you have this dimension, you will want to measure the height of you frame preferably under the front doors. Lets say your frame is 12” from the ground at this point, that means you must lift the vehicle 20” plus at least another inch so you will clear the frame when rolling the jack and transmission under your truck. You might have a jack and jack stands that can lift this high SAFELY but if not do not attempt to do so. Do not use crappy jacks or put them at their highest latch. If you have low lift jacks you will not be able to roll the transmission and jack under the truck. You will more than likely have to have the aid of a strong helper to help you lift the transmission up onto the jack while they are both under the truck.
Put oil drain pan (make sure you have a large enough pan or several ready to go especially if you have a deep pan or heavy duty aftermarket cooler) under transmission pan and remove transmission pan drain plug. If you are one of the unlucky ones, you will not have a drain plug and you will have to remove the whole pan (16 11mm bolts).
Mark pinion yoke u bolts and the u-joint to yoke location so you know which way to put them back on. If you don’t put them on the same direction you might get vibrations while driving which will damage drivetrain. Tape the u-joint caps so they do not fall off.
Disconnect all transmission electrical I.E. VSS connector, round transmission connector and NSS connector and any other electrical that will be in the way of transmission removal. cover the connectors so no debris can get inside or on the pins and move to a safe location where it will not be damaged. You can do this with electrical tape. Tie up electrical out of the way with tie wire, electrical tape etc.
Disconnect transmission cooler lines at transmission. Have some plastic zip lock bags and rubber bands ready to hold the bags onto the cooler lines while they drain.
Remove front passenger tire 6 21mm lug nuts
Remove passenger fender well 3 7mm bolts and 6 plastic retaining fasteners
Disconnect starter cables 1 13mm and 1 7 mm
Remove starter 2 13 mm
Remove the two black plastic dust covers connected to the transmission 8mm bolts
Remove torque converter bolts. There will be three or 14mm, 15mm, or 16mm bolts. This can be a little tricky because of the small access area on the passenger side of the engine block. I find it easiest to use alot of extension and a wobble or u-joint adapter to get in this area. You will get the best range of motion if you use an extension long enough so the ratchet will be utilized in front of the crossmember. You might have to remove your crank sensor to facilitate this process. If you don’t have a flexplate tool to keep the flexplate from moving while you are removing the converter bolts you might want someone to put a hold back ratchet on the crank nut (21mm).
Put transmission pan drain plug back in or reattach pan.
Disconnect shifter cable clip. Move shifter cable to safe location where it will not obstruct transmission removal
Put jack under transmission and lift up just a little after transmission jack makes contact with transmission pan
Remove transmission mount bolt 15mm.
Remove cross member 4 21mm bolts and nuts
Slowly lower transmission and observe if any electrical fuel or other items are being pulled by lowering transmission. If they are find a way to disconnect or fix them.
Remove 13mm nuts that attach electrical, fuel lines and breather/vacumm line brackets on the transmission bell housing studs. Fuel line lines bracket are in the 10 oclock position.
Make sure transmission jack is very secure and will not drop transmission before attempting to remove all transmission bell housing bolts.
Remove transmission bell housing bolts 5-6 (depending on engine and transmission year) .There isn’t a bolt in the 2 o’clock position. If your transmission is pre 99’ you shouldn’t have a 12 o’clock bolt hole.
Very slowly lower transmission as you pull transmission back so bell housing does not hit the flexplate. If you do not do this correctly you could damage flexplate ring gear teeth and or transmission bell housing. Be careful that the converter does not fall off.
Lower transmission
Remove transmission from transmission jack. Send it to me. Depending on the transmission jack used in the process and how high the vehicle is you might be able to roll transmission out from underneath the truck without removing the transmission from transmission jack. If you cannot remove transmission jack with transmission secured to it without removing the transmission from transmission jack you will have to take the transmission off of the transmission jack. I find it easy to remove the transmission from the transmission jack with at least 2 or more strong people with the aid of good condition high strength ratcheting tie downs. Remember the 4l80e weighs close to 300 lbs and is very large. If you are using ratcheting tie downs, make sure they are properly fastened to the frame and are not pinching any wiring, cable, fuel lines, brake lines etc. When using tie downs, you will need to make sure they are secure to the transmission and will not slip off while you lower the transmission. You can remove the front pan bolts and attach a predrilled piece of angle iron, or better yet, square tubing to the two outer transmission pan bolts and run the tie down through it. Make sure there are no sharp edges on the angle iron or square tubing or else the burs on the sharp edges can cut the strap which can lead to a smashed skull.
This info is courtesy of Greg "RedHeartbeat" I changed it up a bit but he was a huge help.
4L80E TO 4L60E CONVERSION
Driveshaft mod...
If I’m not mistaken all nnbs/GMT900 trucks/SUV’s came with 1350 u-joints 1350s which is the same as the 4l80e slip yoke. If for some reason you have a 1330 or 1310 u-joint you can buy what’s called a bastard u joint which will fit your stock driveshaft and fit the 4l80e’s 1350 u-joint. It would be best just to purchase a new u-joint even if you already have a 1350 driveshaft u-joint though.
Cross member
The driveshaft can be modified in several different ways to accept the 4l80e. I chose to cut off about 6 inches from each end with a chop saw. I used a 4” x 10” x ¼” thick stock to relocate the center section back. You will need to move the center section about 6” back. There is a slotted hole in the cross member where the transmission mount bolts to so you will have a little wiggle room. I tack welded mine together so that the transmission mount bolt hole was centered with the slot.
ELECTRICAL
Transmission connecter
remove
K(orange) this will go to Input seed sensor (front 2 pin/wire sensor) terminal A
V(light blue) this will go to Input seed sensor (front 2 pin/wire sensor) terminal B
S(white) not used
T(tan/black) not used
Repin to
U(brown) this will go to Pin S
TCM CONNECTOR
Move the low signal wire from pin 45 to pin 26
Last edited by chris092183; 08-26-2012 at 03:50 AM.
08-25-2012, 10:37 PM
#38
INSTALLATION
Flush cooler lines both directions until it is clear with transmission fluid flush.
If installing a flexplate, use 6 11mmX1.5mm bolts with blue Loctite. This is a very odd bolt size so do not be in a hurry and strip them or you will be waiting a couple days till ups drops them. Make sure you put the flexplate in the right direction. Hand tighten the bolts then snug them up with a ratchet. Now torque flexplate in this sequence 17, 44, 74ft lbs. If you use a 6.0L flexplate you will be using longer bolts because you will be utilizing a steel spacer in between the flexplate and the crank. Again if you don’t have the crank tool you will probably need the assistance of a helper.
Make sure you put at least 1 quart of transmission fluid in the converter and let it set for at least 1 hours.
Seat converter into transmission if not already seated. It is best to seat converter with the transmission facing the 12 o’clock position. If you cannot do it that way be very careful not to damage the o-ring on the input shaft while seating the converter. Try to hold all of the converters weight up The converter needs to seat 3 times. That is 3 clicks: turbine, stator and pump.
Clean dowel pins, engine to transmission mating surface and flex plate.
Lift and align trans
Do not pull trans to engine with bell bolts, this may damage converter or pump.
Some copied info from one of Vince B’s posts
GM 4L80E = 1.030" from bellhousing to converter pads.
Distance may vary +/- .050".
After the transmission bellhousing bolts are tightened, check to see if the torque converter will turn by hand. Push the torque converter back into the transmission as far as it will go. Using feeler gauges or calipers measure the gap between the flexplate converter mounting pad and the torque converter mounting pad. If gap distance is between .060" and .187" it is OK to bolt up the torque converter. If the gap is greater than .187" install a .060" flat washer between the torque converter and flexplate.
8. Remove any debris in the crankshaft pilot hole and lubricate. Clean and lubricate the dowel pins. Check to see that dowel pins will be in the transmission bellhousing by more than .250".
Make sure trans engine is completely mated then tighten bolts
Iift trans with jack then attach electrical/fuel lines be careful not to pull any wiring
Install crossmember 4 21mm bolts
Install nss if not already attached
Install shifter cable lever 15mm
install shifter cable bracket with clip
Torque torque converter bolts 14mm, 15mm, or 16mm 46ft/lbs (depends on converter)
Install starter 2 13mm bolts
Install starter wiring 1 13mm bolt / 1 7mm bolt
Install trans cooler lines 16mm/19mm
Quick connect rings for cooler lines to be rotated on NOT pushed on or they will weaken and might come off further down the road due to high line pressure.
Remove tape from u-joints. Inspect u-joints, yokes, snap rings and make sure all are free from debris before lining u and installing driveshaft. Be sure to use new snap rings for your new output shaft yoke.
Install exhaust 14mm, 9/16”
Attach fender well 7mm sheet metal screws and black plastic retaining fasteners
Flush cooler lines both directions until it is clear with transmission fluid flush.
If installing a flexplate, use 6 11mmX1.5mm bolts with blue Loctite. This is a very odd bolt size so do not be in a hurry and strip them or you will be waiting a couple days till ups drops them. Make sure you put the flexplate in the right direction. Hand tighten the bolts then snug them up with a ratchet. Now torque flexplate in this sequence 17, 44, 74ft lbs. If you use a 6.0L flexplate you will be using longer bolts because you will be utilizing a steel spacer in between the flexplate and the crank. Again if you don’t have the crank tool you will probably need the assistance of a helper.
Make sure you put at least 1 quart of transmission fluid in the converter and let it set for at least 1 hours.
Seat converter into transmission if not already seated. It is best to seat converter with the transmission facing the 12 o’clock position. If you cannot do it that way be very careful not to damage the o-ring on the input shaft while seating the converter. Try to hold all of the converters weight up The converter needs to seat 3 times. That is 3 clicks: turbine, stator and pump.
Clean dowel pins, engine to transmission mating surface and flex plate.
Lift and align trans
Do not pull trans to engine with bell bolts, this may damage converter or pump.
Some copied info from one of Vince B’s posts
GM 4L80E = 1.030" from bellhousing to converter pads.
Distance may vary +/- .050".
After the transmission bellhousing bolts are tightened, check to see if the torque converter will turn by hand. Push the torque converter back into the transmission as far as it will go. Using feeler gauges or calipers measure the gap between the flexplate converter mounting pad and the torque converter mounting pad. If gap distance is between .060" and .187" it is OK to bolt up the torque converter. If the gap is greater than .187" install a .060" flat washer between the torque converter and flexplate.
8. Remove any debris in the crankshaft pilot hole and lubricate. Clean and lubricate the dowel pins. Check to see that dowel pins will be in the transmission bellhousing by more than .250".
Make sure trans engine is completely mated then tighten bolts
Iift trans with jack then attach electrical/fuel lines be careful not to pull any wiring
Install crossmember 4 21mm bolts
Install nss if not already attached
Install shifter cable lever 15mm
install shifter cable bracket with clip
Torque torque converter bolts 14mm, 15mm, or 16mm 46ft/lbs (depends on converter)
Install starter 2 13mm bolts
Install starter wiring 1 13mm bolt / 1 7mm bolt
Install trans cooler lines 16mm/19mm
Quick connect rings for cooler lines to be rotated on NOT pushed on or they will weaken and might come off further down the road due to high line pressure.
Remove tape from u-joints. Inspect u-joints, yokes, snap rings and make sure all are free from debris before lining u and installing driveshaft. Be sure to use new snap rings for your new output shaft yoke.
Install exhaust 14mm, 9/16”
Attach fender well 7mm sheet metal screws and black plastic retaining fasteners
08-26-2012, 11:25 AM
#39
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Like 2007chevy5.3l said, that is some damn good info! I had seen before that someone with a user name with red in it had posted some information, but I searched and couldn't find it. Thanks for the awesome write up everyone involved.
Last edited by slammedsilvy; 08-28-2012 at 03:02 PM.
08-26-2012, 12:23 PM
#40
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hell i know a couple northerner's who would love this info for 4wd apps. i know theres a thread for 4x4 80e swap i cant find it though. figures.
Last edited by fortplainman; 08-26-2012 at 12:46 PM.