Yep. That's the Comp kit. The Mast kit is just like it, except the phaser spring tool has a built on handle, so you don't need a 3/8 ratchet to turn it, and it also comes with a short fat bolt, washers and nut. The bolt you put through the big hole in the middle of the phaser to keep it from coming apart when you are working on it, since it contains a spring that is wound up inside the phaser. (My gripe with the bolt is that the washer doesn't sit flat in the front of the phaser and the bolt head is so big that you can't swivel the back plate around on the one long bolt, in order to install the phaser limiter. (Build that mouse trap a little bit better, please, Mr. Mast!)
Also, Mast has two different limiters, one 30 degrees and the other 20 degrees. The Mast kit also has pretty decent instructions with color photos and all. One word of caution: read the instructions very carefully. The phaser disassembly is straightforward, but you have to make sure that you pull the right bolts and only slightly loosen and leave the one that is one bolt hole clockwise from the indicator mark on the gear, NOT THE ONE NEXT TO THE MARK. The phaser has two long bolts out of the five bolting the rear plate on. Each of those two long bolts (you can see the ends sticking through between the gear and the phaser assmbly) holds one end of the spring and if you pull the wrong one out you will release the spring. That's what happened to me yesterday, I wasn't paying enough attention and pulled the wrong long bolt and I felt and heard when the spring let go inside the phaser. I've just ordered a new phaser, which I will make damn sure that I don't screw up this time. The spring seems to be still wound and exerting pressure on the phaser after I released the spring tool, but, given the amount of work that it takes to get to change the phaser, I'm not taking any chances.
I have to say that it is a shame that the Mast instructions, despite all of the superfluous detail and photos about how to pull off the Crank pulley etc. didn't have a photo with a friggin arrow pointing to the damn bolt that you are not supposed to pull out (or even the indicator mark that they speak about)! That would make it too simple, I guess. Ditto for the article in GMHTP, it doesn't even tell you that they had to change valvesprings, which I am sure they must have, to turn that big cam to 7000RPM.
The reason I'm going into all of this is simply to (hopefully) prevent somebody else making the same damn stupid mistake that I did. When I get the new phaser, I will take a bunch of photos and try to do a decent job of explaining the exact procedure, to help any of you guys out who, like me, want to keep the VVT but are afraid of the so-called complexity involved. This, like just about anything else, is a very straightforward process once you have good instructions. Nonetheless, I am sure that Mast and Comp would see a surge in sales of these cams if they offered either a good instructional DVD or a modded Phaser in their kit (perhaps with a core exchange programme). just my 2 cents...
Tune in again soon for the follow up....

 

thanks for the details . . .

there's a guy selling the crane spring tool for the L92/LS3,7 heads . . . and it's on tech.

 

I finished the install yesterday and the cam sounds real nice. Not too lumpy, just nice, especially with the exhaust cut-out open. I took some pictures of the Phaser limiter install, but they are too large to attach.
It needs some tuning now, and I've sent a message to Wheatley to see if I can get a mailorder tune from him. I haven't been able to test it yet, since it's been pouring rain since yesterday. Once I get the tune in and test it I'll report back.