ak2007r6

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure what that "OEM" was in reference to but I don't think it was a 6.2. Our factory exhaust actually flows very well. I will see if I can find the site I got that from again.

SampsonSimpsonZ

http://www.exhaustsoundclips.com/cfm.pdf

Idk if this is the site you got it from or not, but I just typed in "Exhaust flow chart" in Google.

ak2007r6

iTrader: (1)

yup thats it. I found that again but it doesn't say what the OEM vehicle was

NKPPhil

Thanks for trying, it's still useful just to compare the aftermarket stuff head-to-head.

Team Paulie

iTrader: (1)

I dropped kicked my 40 series off and went with a spin tech, never looked back.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

Nobody really expanded on why Flowcrapper sucks so I will based on my experience. The biggest problem with Flowcrapper is they aren't chambered but baffled and their baffles are tack welded instead of full beads. In a N/A set-up your fine but if your running FI the heat and added flow could break those baffles (they did on mine) and then you have lose pieces of metal rattling around the muffler sounding absolutely terrible and restricting performance even more.

That, IMO is why Flowcrapper is just a waste of money and to be avoided.

LaBlackIce

iTrader: (1)

Magnaflow or borla

RacinRust

Bigschwerm did a great job on this topic on 08-05-11.

*Great Exhaust Info..... Horsepower ratings..
I recently swapped over to a true dual 2.5" exhaust setup and stumbled across this info over on Tech while searching for hard data on exhaust setups....

I found this on another site and figured I'd post it here for everyone’s education...

“Hey guys I just got done reading a good article in the May 2005 issue of Popular Hot Rodding Magazine. The article was written by David Vizard who seems to be one of the most accredited and respected people in the automotive performance world. In the article he stated that CFM is a great way to help develop a zero loss exhaust system. For zero loss a exhaust must flow 2.2 CFM per horsepower (This means less than 1% of total power produced by the engine is lost due to back pressure.). From reading the article I think that a lot of people that see gains when going from a 2.5” exhaust system to a 3” dual system see them because the muffler on the 2.5” system didn’t flow enough for their application. David stated that per square inch of exhaust tubing there is 115 CFM of flow. So plugging some numbers into the good ole TI-89….. ((3.14 * radius^2)*115[*2 for a dual exhaust system])/2.2 = Max hp supported with zero loss

A 2.75” (stock) single system is good for a 310hp engine with zero loss…
A 3” Single system is good for a 370hp engine with zero loss…
A 3.5” Single system is good for a 503hp engine with zero loss…
A 4” Single system is good for a 657hp engine with zero loss…
A 2.25” dual system is good for a 457hp engine with zero loss…
A 2.5” dual system is good for a 513hp engine with zero loss…
A 3” dual system is good for a 812hp engine with zero loss…

Now these numbers are assuming that everything else is set up perfectly. The muffler must flow as much as the open pipe or more to get zero loss at the listed hp levels. He also states that using a muffler with a larger inlet/outlet diameter than your exhaust pipe is a great way to get more out of a smaller diameter system since the muffler flow will be able to match the straight pipe flow. Now there are many other things to consider when designing an exhaust system but I figured this would give a great foundation to build on.”

ak2007r6

iTrader: (1)

Awesome read. I wonder how a 5" muffler would do on my 3.5" exhaust once I get my LT's

youngone2011

Lol my exhaust is at the bottom ... Gibson for the loss .... Lmao