How to remove frame wax coating?
#11
I don't know. I looked into them but they start at like 4K new and go up from there. Most of the used ones I found were too beat up to spend any real money on them.
From the Pictures it looks like its not getting it all the way off. the hot water one would help with melting it.
Try using a narrow stream tip if you're not already using one and stay close to the work piece like 4-6 inches or so.
I tried to find pictures but don't seem to have any on this computer.
From the Pictures it looks like its not getting it all the way off. the hot water one would help with melting it.
Try using a narrow stream tip if you're not already using one and stay close to the work piece like 4-6 inches or so.
I tried to find pictures but don't seem to have any on this computer.
#12
#14
Do some of you guys not have car washes wherever you are... lol. Here anyway they are all hot water.. and if they aren't they quite frankly aren't worth using. Cold water doesn't clean anything nor does it cut grease. Hot on the other hand even without soap it is great... with a little grease cutting soap it's better than great. And yeah that wax crap lifts right off with a good hot water job. A Hotsy will let you get to steamer level of heat and does a great job.... most good car washes here are the same thing though... especially ones that have bays on them for big rigs to wash in.
Depending on your home carwash you could just hook your hotwater tank too it..... or whatever you use for hot water at home. If the pump has ceramic valves in it then it will be fine..... if it's a cheapie without them..... well it probably won't work so great after lol. It's not as effective but it's a big improvement over cold water...... my buddy that owns an engine shop has a big hot water tank in his shop anyway and has it cranked up...... it's a fairly effective steamer and its what he uses to degrease stuff that he isn't hot tanking.
If my well water wasn't such **** I would have a Hotsy at home.... although my water system has a hard time keeping up so I would increase my pressure tank too. I have too much mineral in it to bother.... I knocked the iron out but it would still be water spot city.
Depending on your home carwash you could just hook your hotwater tank too it..... or whatever you use for hot water at home. If the pump has ceramic valves in it then it will be fine..... if it's a cheapie without them..... well it probably won't work so great after lol. It's not as effective but it's a big improvement over cold water...... my buddy that owns an engine shop has a big hot water tank in his shop anyway and has it cranked up...... it's a fairly effective steamer and its what he uses to degrease stuff that he isn't hot tanking.
If my well water wasn't such **** I would have a Hotsy at home.... although my water system has a hard time keeping up so I would increase my pressure tank too. I have too much mineral in it to bother.... I knocked the iron out but it would still be water spot city.
#16
#17
Hahaha ya that is true I'm sure it would be close to the cost of just renting one till I'd pay for the car wash pressure washing for 2 hours haha. Found a rental place that has one its $66 for half a day and $90 for a full day which I don't think is terrible
#18
Probably too late to do this if you've already painted the frame - but one of the surefire ways to make sure the thing does not rust out again - is to get it galvanized. I put a lot of time into trying to figure out if I wanted to try and "save" my 2003 Suburban 2500 - which was (is) getting seriously rusty on the frame. I did a bunch of searching and found a number of guys posting here and there that they were doing things like getting Range Rover frames galvanized - and people were also doing old muscle car frames.
After they frame was galvanized they would clean it all up - and put a coat of POR-15 or something similar over the whole frame to protect the galvanize.
I saw a few people commenting that they had done stuff like this to Range Rover frames like 20 years ago - and the things were still non rusty and holding up great.
I called around my area (Boston MA) vicinity - and found a couple of platers who had tanks big enough to dip an entire truck frame. They quoted the cost out at like $600-$650
I'm getting rid of the 2003 - just picked up a 2010 Yukon 2500. I want to make this truck last so it may well get the galvanize treatment on the frame if I can get around to stripping the whole thing down.
After they frame was galvanized they would clean it all up - and put a coat of POR-15 or something similar over the whole frame to protect the galvanize.
I saw a few people commenting that they had done stuff like this to Range Rover frames like 20 years ago - and the things were still non rusty and holding up great.
I called around my area (Boston MA) vicinity - and found a couple of platers who had tanks big enough to dip an entire truck frame. They quoted the cost out at like $600-$650
I'm getting rid of the 2003 - just picked up a 2010 Yukon 2500. I want to make this truck last so it may well get the galvanize treatment on the frame if I can get around to stripping the whole thing down.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post