New setup......
#12
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Why not? Is there something I can **** up bad? Or is it just not for first timers? I did my torque converter myseft with no previous experience , that's why I think I can take on the cam and DOD delete .
#14
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if you know how to use a torque wrench (the right way) and can follow instructions, not rush the process, and have the tools-space to do it, then i say go for it. we can walk you through the whole process if need be but there are a lot of tools you have to buy to do the cam swap if thats the route you go.
10-75ft lbs 3/8" torque wrench
20-250ft lbs 1/2" torque wrench
15/16" deep socket with a long 1/2" breaker bar
long and short prybar
10mm deep drive socket
8mm deep drive socket
13mm deep drive and shallow drive socket
15mm socket
3" and 6" extension
3/8" ratchet or air ratchet
1/2" impact or 1/2" ratchet
loc-tite
rags
brake cleaner
3 arm claw puller
NO BEER till after you are done. i dont want to see anyone leave a socket/rag/particals in the motor and ruin it
i may be missing a few things but thats the basic needs of a DOD swap. soak your lifters 24hrs imo. key thing is taking your time and remembering everything that you took out has to go back. this isnt a good project to have bolts/parts left over
#15
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Thanks but the only reason it looks soo clean is I taped and painted the parts of the block you see and I wasted 4 cans of carb cleaner while sitting on the rad support and scraped all the dang carbon build up off my slugs.. I dont know if its the quality of fuel or if its bc of the fuel management? It was worse than I expected on a 3 year old vehicle with only 18k miles on her... I wish the U.P.S. man would hurry the heck up!! I'm tired of coming home with no boxes on the porch
#16
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Soo I just done the DOD delete and cam swap or I should say in the process of it. Be finished sometime in the morning. Someone ruffled my feathers when I heard that when I give it the initial start that it will be locked in 4 cyl mode until I get it tuned? Anyone heard of this or is this bologna?If this is the case, will it hurt to let the cam cycle through a couple heat cycles in 4 banger mode? I am done working for tonight on it, just looking for answers
As some others have posted getting the proper torque on the head bolts can be a challenge. Do yourself a favor and use ARP bolts. These do not need to be stretched to gain proper torque, only torqued in 3 stages.
When I did mine I pulled the engine. It's really not much more work. Then you can install new cam bearings for some piece of mind. Here is the link to my write up.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...nation+project
#17
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Well your build is very nice Mrgoodwrench. But Im not going that deep in mine. Just a mild cam and new springs with the DOD delete. I am very interested in the ARP head bolts bc with the headers just layin over, its still a pain in the rear for me to even get the heads off and I WAS dreading doing the stretch on a set of OE bolts. When you use ARP bolts the sequence is the same but what is the ft.lbs and stages you torque them?
#18
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Yes the torque sequence is the same. The large bolts are torqued in 3 stages.
30, 50, 80 lb-ft.
The smaller M8 bolts are to 22 lb-ft.
It is a good idea to go over all the bolts several times to be sure.
I would highly recommend you get this book.
How to build and modify GM LS-Series Engines. Written by Joseph Potak. The publisher is Motorbooks. This is the best LS book I have seen. So much great information. You can find it on Amazon.
30, 50, 80 lb-ft.
The smaller M8 bolts are to 22 lb-ft.
It is a good idea to go over all the bolts several times to be sure.
I would highly recommend you get this book.
How to build and modify GM LS-Series Engines. Written by Joseph Potak. The publisher is Motorbooks. This is the best LS book I have seen. So much great information. You can find it on Amazon.
#19
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Ok good deal on the ARP bolts... I have a book called How to build high performance LS1/LS6 V-8s by Will Handzel.. Pretty informative but I can tell its still lacking some detail....