who HAS done a cam swap on a nnbs
01-18-2009, 11:31 AM
#62
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I just put a cam in my 2008 5.3 Flex Fuel AFM. There is some differences from a normal LS1 engine:
1) Of course you need the LS7 timing sprocket and 3 bolts to hold on the gear to the cam, many places sell this set as a "kit". Not very expensive.
2) You should have your ECM tuner first disable AFM/DOD, at least I did.
3) You will not be able to use the JPR/ dowel-rod method to hold your lifters up, you must use the pen-magnet method or russian roulette method. The holes in the block are not there to insert the dowel-rods/JPR.
4) The camshaft retainer plate is held on by 4 TORX bit countersunk screws, not 10mm hex bolts aka, LS1. Have good strong (not screwdriver type) TORX drivers to remove these, they also have Loctite.
5) The new single bolt cams have one large bolt holding cam to sprocket, same size socket as the balancer to crankshaft bolt.
6) The quick disconnect automatic transmission cooler lines connected to the radiator have small circlips hidden under a plastic sheath at the fitting on the radiator. They have to come off with a small screwdriver to remove the lines. Do not lose these clips, you will have a hard time finding new ones.
7) The passenger side coil mount bracket farthest rear "studbolt" on the valve cover is a nightmare to remove. A MID-DEPTH 1/4" drive 10mm socket is a must to get this one bolt off.
8) Same side, #8 cylinder, sparkplug and wire, what a mess to try to pull this wire off. Removing the sparkplug is okay, but is all done in the blind.
9) If you remove everything in a logical order ,when it comes time to install the valvesprings , if you are not too big, you can stand in between the engine and the radiator support to work on the valvetrain, easier than sitting up in the engine bay/fender.
10) The Crane Cams LS1 valvespring tool is a MUST. Also, shop air is a MUST, to make the job faster with air tools, and to charge each cylinder with air to keep valves up while using Crane Tool.
Good luck!
1) Of course you need the LS7 timing sprocket and 3 bolts to hold on the gear to the cam, many places sell this set as a "kit". Not very expensive.
2) You should have your ECM tuner first disable AFM/DOD, at least I did.
3) You will not be able to use the JPR/ dowel-rod method to hold your lifters up, you must use the pen-magnet method or russian roulette method. The holes in the block are not there to insert the dowel-rods/JPR.
4) The camshaft retainer plate is held on by 4 TORX bit countersunk screws, not 10mm hex bolts aka, LS1. Have good strong (not screwdriver type) TORX drivers to remove these, they also have Loctite.
5) The new single bolt cams have one large bolt holding cam to sprocket, same size socket as the balancer to crankshaft bolt.
6) The quick disconnect automatic transmission cooler lines connected to the radiator have small circlips hidden under a plastic sheath at the fitting on the radiator. They have to come off with a small screwdriver to remove the lines. Do not lose these clips, you will have a hard time finding new ones.
7) The passenger side coil mount bracket farthest rear "studbolt" on the valve cover is a nightmare to remove. A MID-DEPTH 1/4" drive 10mm socket is a must to get this one bolt off.
8) Same side, #8 cylinder, sparkplug and wire, what a mess to try to pull this wire off. Removing the sparkplug is okay, but is all done in the blind.
9) If you remove everything in a logical order ,when it comes time to install the valvesprings , if you are not too big, you can stand in between the engine and the radiator support to work on the valvetrain, easier than sitting up in the engine bay/fender.
10) The Crane Cams LS1 valvespring tool is a MUST. Also, shop air is a MUST, to make the job faster with air tools, and to charge each cylinder with air to keep valves up while using Crane Tool.
Good luck!
01-26-2009, 04:13 PM
#64
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I just put a cam in my 2008 5.3 Flex Fuel AFM. There is some differences from a normal LS1 engine:
1) Of course you need the LS7 timing sprocket and 3 bolts to hold on the gear to the cam, many places sell this set as a "kit". Not very expensive.
2) You should have your ECM tuner first disable AFM/DOD, at least I did.
3) You will not be able to use the JPR/ dowel-rod method to hold your lifters up, you must use the pen-magnet method or russian roulette method. The holes in the block are not there to insert the dowel-rods/JPR.
4) The camshaft retainer plate is held on by 4 TORX bit countersunk screws, not 10mm hex bolts aka, LS1. Have good strong (not screwdriver type) TORX drivers to remove these, they also have Loctite.
5) The new single bolt cams have one large bolt holding cam to sprocket, same size socket as the balancer to crankshaft bolt.
6) The quick disconnect automatic transmission cooler lines connected to the radiator have small circlips hidden under a plastic sheath at the fitting on the radiator. They have to come off with a small screwdriver to remove the lines. Do not lose these clips, you will have a hard time finding new ones.
7) The passenger side coil mount bracket farthest rear "studbolt" on the valve cover is a nightmare to remove. A MID-DEPTH 1/4" drive 10mm socket is a must to get this one bolt off.
8) Same side, #8 cylinder, sparkplug and wire, what a mess to try to pull this wire off. Removing the sparkplug is okay, but is all done in the blind.
9) If you remove everything in a logical order ,when it comes time to install the valvesprings , if you are not too big, you can stand in between the engine and the radiator support to work on the valvetrain, easier than sitting up in the engine bay/fender.
10) The Crane Cams LS1 valvespring tool is a MUST. Also, shop air is a MUST, to make the job faster with air tools, and to charge each cylinder with air to keep valves up while using Crane Tool.
Good luck!
1) Of course you need the LS7 timing sprocket and 3 bolts to hold on the gear to the cam, many places sell this set as a "kit". Not very expensive.
2) You should have your ECM tuner first disable AFM/DOD, at least I did.
3) You will not be able to use the JPR/ dowel-rod method to hold your lifters up, you must use the pen-magnet method or russian roulette method. The holes in the block are not there to insert the dowel-rods/JPR.
4) The camshaft retainer plate is held on by 4 TORX bit countersunk screws, not 10mm hex bolts aka, LS1. Have good strong (not screwdriver type) TORX drivers to remove these, they also have Loctite.
5) The new single bolt cams have one large bolt holding cam to sprocket, same size socket as the balancer to crankshaft bolt.
6) The quick disconnect automatic transmission cooler lines connected to the radiator have small circlips hidden under a plastic sheath at the fitting on the radiator. They have to come off with a small screwdriver to remove the lines. Do not lose these clips, you will have a hard time finding new ones.
7) The passenger side coil mount bracket farthest rear "studbolt" on the valve cover is a nightmare to remove. A MID-DEPTH 1/4" drive 10mm socket is a must to get this one bolt off.
8) Same side, #8 cylinder, sparkplug and wire, what a mess to try to pull this wire off. Removing the sparkplug is okay, but is all done in the blind.
9) If you remove everything in a logical order ,when it comes time to install the valvesprings , if you are not too big, you can stand in between the engine and the radiator support to work on the valvetrain, easier than sitting up in the engine bay/fender.
10) The Crane Cams LS1 valvespring tool is a MUST. Also, shop air is a MUST, to make the job faster with air tools, and to charge each cylinder with air to keep valves up while using Crane Tool.
Good luck!
02-02-2009, 02:34 PM
#65
Staging Lane
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I have a 07 nnbs with VORTEC 5.3L V8 FLEX FUEL IRON BLK ENG W/ACTIVE FUEL MGMT TECH sorry I don't know which one you are reffering to in your post but I am wondering if the cam tools will work for mine? It allready has upgraded push rods and lifters and I am just wanting to swar to a different cam without pulling valve covers. Thanks
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