Ball joints or replace a-arm?
#21
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (40)
I’m screwing with ya bud.
I’ve been doing this long enough that I don’t even look at the economy brand stuff anymore. I think the saying goes buy once cry once. I’ve read some good stuff on the mevotech. Guess time will tell. Just wish I didn’t have the aluminum front end. That’s been the tricky part. Trying to find parts that work with it sucks because at some point GM quit using aluminum and went to stamped but I haven’t found a clear delineation on when or what part numbers. I tried searching gm-trucks.com but all I saw was someone asking about a solution followed by 30 people complaining they have the problem followed by 10 more saying GM should issue a recall and then that was the end.
I’ve been doing this long enough that I don’t even look at the economy brand stuff anymore. I think the saying goes buy once cry once. I’ve read some good stuff on the mevotech. Guess time will tell. Just wish I didn’t have the aluminum front end. That’s been the tricky part. Trying to find parts that work with it sucks because at some point GM quit using aluminum and went to stamped but I haven’t found a clear delineation on when or what part numbers. I tried searching gm-trucks.com but all I saw was someone asking about a solution followed by 30 people complaining they have the problem followed by 10 more saying GM should issue a recall and then that was the end.
I know you were man, all good.
In a way I wish I had the aluminum parts, I really don't know where and what the change was all about, but I think the 4wd's is where the aluminum came in. But I have no info to back that though up at all.
#24
TECH Resident
4WD and mine was all alum also.
The following users liked this post:
00pooterSS (06-16-2020)
#25
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Definitely not the worst install I’ve done especially once I took the knuckle completely off. First side I left it attached to the tie rod and at least one ball joint at a time and ended up pulling the shaft out to make everything fit. Dumbass move. Passenger side I yanked the knuckle entirely and loosened the strut up top almost entirely and everything went together much better. I do have to laugh that they put a grease zerk on the lower ball joint that is impossible to access with a shaft in the way. Now I gotta go get a needle adapter to grease the driver side because after pulling it apart umpteen times I refused to do it to add grease. Good news is the pop I had when turning is gone.
#27
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (40)
LOL you're not the first one to do that
In the future. Pop the ball joints and tie rod end and the caliper off. Pull the knuckle with bearing still on it and set it on the ground. Pull the strut and swap the arms and reassemble.
And where's the pic with both new arms on it!??
Nice rotors btw. Those look good.
In the future. Pop the ball joints and tie rod end and the caliper off. Pull the knuckle with bearing still on it and set it on the ground. Pull the strut and swap the arms and reassemble.
And where's the pic with both new arms on it!??
Nice rotors btw. Those look good.
#28
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
That’s the way I did it the second time around. Way easier.
I forgot to get one. I’ve got family coming over and was in a rush to get this done before they got here. 7:30-3:30 including clean up and brake bedding.
The rotors are AC Delco heavy duty from rock auto. The squiggly lines are cooler than just straight slotted lines.
I forgot to get one. I’ve got family coming over and was in a rush to get this done before they got here. 7:30-3:30 including clean up and brake bedding.
The rotors are AC Delco heavy duty from rock auto. The squiggly lines are cooler than just straight slotted lines.
The following 2 users liked this post by Bgbldodge:
00pooterSS (06-26-2020),
tjmath (06-26-2020)
#29
TECH Resident