LS1FREEK

iTrader: (1)

5500rpm limit on the stock intake is NOT true... I'm runnin my stock intake and my peak horsepower was at 6500RPM! On the street it pulls to 7k! I usually put my shift points between 6600 to 6800rpm. Also, if you milled your heads that far and with the thinner head gaskets, what are you doing about lining up the intake manifold with the intake ports?

Pray

iTrader: (7)

I have had these exact heads on three different cars and four different motors with out an issue with intake fitment. I have run them with stock LS1/6 and FAST 90/92's ported and unported. It takes about .050" for 7cc's plus the .010" for the gasket. .060" is negligable. It probably wouldn't even be worth the port match. Now if you angle milled you would have problems.

That is interesting about your intake. Those RPM numbers are backed up on the dyno? I was hearing that if I wanted to get any RPM out of this thing I needed to get the Trail Blazer SS intake system at a minimum if not the FAST intake.

LS1FREEK

iTrader: (1)

Yeah they are backed by dyno numbers, although the power numbers themselves are probably are a bit inflated, the rpm where the peaks are at would still be accurate.

Horsepower is the red line an the numbers are on the LEFT. Torque is the blue line and the numbers are on the RIGHT.



Here's a vid too:


[URL=http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz248/LS1FREEK/Dyno/?action=view&current=DSCF4116.flv[/URL]

Pray

iTrader: (7)

Dude that is awsome on a MD. My 500rw motor only put down 470rw on an AWMD. That is sick power out of a cam, headers 5.3. I was hoping to see those kind of numbers out of mine on a DJ with the heads. It only put down 260/280rw on a DJ as it sits. I was thinking I could get 100+rw out of the heads, cam, headers. I did get 110rw out of lesser heads and smaller cam on a guys A4 Vette. We will see. But now I know it is going to take alot of power to get this thing into the 12's@115 or so. The end goal is 10's@125 at least.

Thanks for your posts guys. I have gained alot of knowlege from them.

P.S. Can you guys tell me about the Corvette Servo?

LS1FREEK

iTrader: (1)

Like i said, i think my numbers might be inflated. Personally i think it was closer to 340 to 350. But along the lines of the vette servo, its a must have. You can get one on ebay for less than 20 bucks. It will firm up the 1st to 2nd shift quite a bit and even helps the 2nd to 3rd shift as well. Basicly, it will just have more holding power in 2nd gear.

Pray

iTrader: (7)

Right on. Should I invest in a Transgo shift kit as well. I have rebuilt four 700-R4's but no 4l60's. I would guess they would be about the same except for the electronics. I am sure a full rebuild is down the road.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Yessir, get the Trango HD-2...and if you've rebuilt 700R4's than you can handle a 60E no problem

LTX355

iTrader: (11)

that is only 2 degrees more on the exhaust side then tonys afr cam I think it will wrk just fine and i wouldnt worry about the intake since fi is on the way.

Pray

iTrader: (7)

I ran Tony's cam on my stock LS6 with headers and made 700rw at 13lbs out of a P1 so I know the cam makes power.

I think I am going to advance the cam a couple of degrees, bump the compression up to 10:1 and get the converter discussed earlier for the N/A configuration. The truck will never be a drag hero but it will be a whole lot more livable.

zippy

Assuming you have an L33 the 224/230 with a 3000 stall would run just fine with it being on a 114LSA. It wouldn't be an ideal cam, but would run just fine. I've done a couple of 5.3L's with 224/230's and neither were a turd down low, both just needed a stall. The heads and compression will be what really helps you out.