LS2's knock sensors are on the side of the block, there is a conversion harness to accomadate it. Everything else is still the same as bar as bolting stuff on it.

 

And there is only a 70ish # diff between iron and aluminum.

 

Thanks, now I want an ls2

I found more info:
• LS2 blocks feature a 4.00" bore, LS1 / LS6 have 3.888"
• Crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons and cylinder heads are interchangeable between LS2 and LS1 / LS6 engines
• LS2 cylinder heads are made from the same castings as the LS6
• LS2 blocks have the knock sensor on the side of the block compared to LS1 or LS6 block that have it in the lifter valley.
• The cam sensor has been moved to the timing cover (requires use of LS2 cam gear)
• LS2 knock sensors send a different signal type and are not interchangeable with LS1 / LS6
• LS1 computer will control LS2 engine, except for the knock sensors.

 

i'm doing the same thing 2004sss is doing. i have looked at several pistons and rods. so far i have found only one H beam forged rod that is made for our stock crank. i'll probably end up going with diamond pistons. of course a .030 bore on the block.

 

There are 2 simple things changed on the LS2 block. EVerything else is the same.

1) The knock sensors screw into the side of the block now, so I have a plug and play harness that splits and runs to each side of the motor.
2) The cam position sensor is now built into the front cover, so there is another harness that extends to the front cover instead of the rear.

These harness' are a whopping $55 for both

 

Just weighed the blocks: The LS2 block is 120lbs and the iron block is 205 pounds

 

What I do with all the LS2 swaps is drill & tap the knock sensor holes and then the customer can just re-use his old LS1 sensors. Works perfect.

 

Chase if you're still looking for 17psi + n2o, go forged everything as Sled recommended.

Seeing one or two cars hit 1000 hp with a stock crank does not "prove" the crank can withstand that. Showing a thousand of *trucks* do it, daily driven as Chase's truck will be, and for 50000 miles with n2o and 17psi for track duty may start to get there.

There is no harm in over-building. There's a lot of heart ache (and broken parts) in under-building.

 

I think I should elaborate a little further on what I said earlier, because I've had a few PM's regarding it.

This is all theory and I've never seen or heard of it being done, but it works on paper.

You take a 6.0L block with a standard or 0.030 over bore (9.240" deck height). Stock stroke crank (3.622") and 4.8L rods (6.275"). From there you use and off the shelf 402 or 408 stroker piston and you deck the block accordingly. JE and Wesico offer pistons in dished, flat top or domed with a compression height of 1.115"

Deck Height=9.240"
Rod Length=6.275"
Stroke/2=1.811"
Comp. Height=1.115"

9.240-6.275-1.811-1.150=.039"

So to the piston would be 0.039" in the hole, and you could deck the block accordingly to acheive your desired CR.

The advantages of a longer rod are numerous. Longer dwell at TDC and BDC, which creates more cylinder pressure which equals more power. Slower piston speeds which allows greater rpm capability, and reduces the stress on rod bolts. It decreases wear and tear and increases reliability. Also it decreases side loading on the piston due to a reduces rod angle. You get the idea...

Again, this is all theory with a budget in mind.

 

Factory C5 cranks are not forged. Factory truck cranks work great...

IMO...

I wouldn't spend ANY money on a crank unless you have it to burn. If you are sticking with the stock stroke it is unnecessary to go to a forged crank. The stock crank can handle any amount of power normally discussed on this forum. I would take the money you might have spent on a crank and invest it in a high quality set of rods and pistons. I like Oliver and Carillo. Lunati, Manley, and Eagle also make good rods. There are others. I like JE pistons and their file fit rings as well as Total Seal. You would not really need their expensive FSR (forged side relief) series unless you decided to stroke the motor. Lots of folks have had great luck with Diamond, Mahley, and Wiseco. When you order pistons, as part of your specifications, make sure you specify standard thickness rings instead of metric... more often than not you will save money there.

I wouldn't go any higher than 9:1 if you are planning on "15-17psi"... and the tune had better be SPOT ON even with the spray or you WILL lift the heads at that kind of boost. Standard sized ARP head studs alone will not keep the heads down at the kind of cylinder pressures you will ultimately reach. Any detonation at this specification and you are toast. Some folks o-ring (I have) and others literally glue the heads down. 1/2" head studs will also help... but they are expensive let alone the necessary machining.

Researching a cam to suit your low end torque requirements will more than compensate for the low CR...

I hope you plan on budgeting for fuel delivery as well...

Good Luck

Bill