Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

Here's one of each just off of memory....91 Octane crap gas (important) and conservative tunes...

00 LS1 F-Body - stock longblock cam only with springs (.595/.598 Lift 232/236 Dur @.050 on a 114LSA w/ 1.7 rockers) Comp 918 Springs = about 395rwhp on a Dynojet. Add brand name Stage2 factory casting ported heads with 2.02/1.57 valves and it bumps you to about 420rwhp on same Dynojet under nearly the same weather conditions. Headers, high flow cats, and free flowing aftermarket exhaust used.

02 LS6 Z06 - stock longblock with LPE GT2-3 cam (573/.580 207/220 on a 118.5 LSA w/ 1.7 rockers) and a D1SC Procharger pushing 9 psi = about 580rwhp on a Dynojet. Add AFR 205's 66cc chamber competition port with Patriot Gold Dual Springs and it bumps you to about 645rwhp on same Dynojet under nearly the same weather conditions. Headers, high flow cats, and free flowing aftermarket exhaust used. FWIW, I would not be pushing factory hyper-you-cracked-it pistons over about 550rwhp if you expect longevity... just my opinion based on only a couple of data points.

So, doing the math on these 2 examples you net 25rwhp with mildly worked factory castings. On the FI example the net is about 65rwhp. Keep in mind these examples, along with the point I was trying to make in my first post, show street performance capabilities. Obviously the spread only increases as your power and $$$ increase. My point is you can build plenty of power with factory untouched castings... and obviously opinions will vary on the definition of "plenty"...

Bill

quicksilverado

iTrader: (8)

5.3-5.7 requires .120 over. You will be on borrowed time with cylinder walls that thin. Just find an Al 5.7 block. Its also 100 lbs lighter.

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

.120 over, Ok why do you say borrowed time?Do you know just how thin?I say it will last as long as any other Lsx cyl. wall

quicksilverado

iTrader: (8)

There is a reason for 4.8/5.3 block and a 6.0 block. If you feel how thin the wall is between the water jacket and cylinder wall it is even thinner in some areas that you cannot feel or see. .060 over is normally the largest for an fe block. .120 over is not safe for any block. Read this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=max+safe+bore

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

So a 6.0 should not be bored .060.My question is how thin is a 5.3 bored .120 over?.If you have something to show this cannot be done on a 5.3 block please show us. thank you

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

Bill Reid,
That was an entertaining read thru. Do you own a shop or work do you perhaps work for one? Obviously you've had some experience putting some of these LS1s together.
Thank you,
Kyle

litreddevil

iTrader: (4)

I Will Find Out How Much He Bored The Block He Has A Stock 6.0 That Is 410ci Now.if I Remmber Right He Said You Can Go 80 R 90 Over If The Block Was Sonic Check.do A Search Cause Their Is Some One That As Done This And It Was Coastly.

quicksilverado

iTrader: (8)

Do a search on ls1tech. There are several engine builders that do not suggest going more than .030 over. I took my 5.3 block to Lamar Walden in Atlanta. He would not touch it for .120 over. He looked it up in a book of specs. Not trying to start a pissing contest. Just trying to help others avoid what could be a costly mistake.

Bill Reid

iTrader: (14)

That thread makes no mention of the 4.8 or 5.3 block. With all due respect don't be so quick to group the 5.3 block with the 6L block... as they are not the same casting.

Read the book "How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8's" by Will Handzel. Many speed shops carry the book. If you are lazy like I am just go to Amazon.com and have one mailed to your house. The beginning of Chapter 2 discusses exactly what we are talking about here.

Bottom line is if you and/or your machinest are not comfortable with, basically, internet and/or book advice then stick with the machinest's advice and press on. After all, he is the one putting the motor together for you... not us. Lots of folks want max cubes given what parts they have or are willing to pay for. Considering why this thread was started, I say one can make an extremely powerful blown or turbocharged 5.3 without boring, stroking, or expensive ported heads... even a 4.8 for that matter. Heh ... see how much W2W gets out of a stock 4.8 on an engine dyno with their single turbo (in-house install only) on page 129 of the book... then ask yourself how much money do you want to spend determining how long your black crayon marks are going to be... or sticking to a specific power goal and then move on to beefing up the drivetrain and figuring how you'll get a truck to hook with your new found power.

Also, considering how cheap 6L blocks are I see really no reason a machinest putting forth the effort to bore an existing block... again, this assuming you "must" have more cubes. Something like $750 for an iron 6L and about $1k for an aluminum LS2. Compare that to how much it cost to bore a hole X8... and even then you are still .100" shy of a 6L block. But then a 6L block opens another can of worms when it comes to heads and pistons based on chamber size and compression ratio goals.

BTW, LS1/LS6 blocks are about 107lbs... with a 6L iron block being about 65lbs heavier. This info is also in the book I mentioned above. I have not weighed a 5.3 iron block so I don't know how much heavier it is compared to an Aluminum block.

Sport Side... been in the GENIII business for about 4 years... mostly LS1/LS6/LQ9 from 346ci to 427ci... mostly blown and turbo apps. I ran a shop for about a year and a half.

Bill

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

All I know is many have done it 5.3 bored to 5.7 with no issues,If someone claims its to thin then i would expect them to know just how thin,otherwise they are just talking.