6.0L to 8.1L Swap?? 6.0 Locked Up
#12
Good choice. The 8.1L has the potential to make butt loads of torque at low RPM but I don't see the motor being very peppy, nor fun to drive. It's not very difficult to make an iron block 370/408 outperform the 496 big block in every way.
If you have $3000+/- to spend, invest in a good rebuild if the machinist deems the block to be worth rebuilding. A 4" crankshaft would make for a real monster between your frame rails. Bolt on reworked 317 heads with a mild camshaft and you'll have a best on your hands. Traction will be your problem now...which is a good problem to have for fun.
Only thing I'd keep in mind...the current gas prices.
If you have $3000+/- to spend, invest in a good rebuild if the machinist deems the block to be worth rebuilding. A 4" crankshaft would make for a real monster between your frame rails. Bolt on reworked 317 heads with a mild camshaft and you'll have a best on your hands. Traction will be your problem now...which is a good problem to have for fun.
Only thing I'd keep in mind...the current gas prices.
#14
the 8.1L just makes retarded amount of tq. hp is the same, and they dont revv as high.
Our 6.0L sucks out of the hole then pulls well from 4000-6000 rpms. The 8.1L pulls like a raped ape from ideal to about 3800 rpms.
Raler makes a head and cam package. good for around 150hp and 150lbtq. but is $6500 bucks.. However if there claims are true that wold make you have 470hp and 600lbtq.
I can tell you that you will have a major traction problem. I was drining my friends 8.1 yesterday with 3K trailer on it. i drove it same way i do our 6.0 and the 8.1 would leave out of red lights with the rear tires spinning
I like both motor, just no one has pushed that far. I think tierod had the heads and 200 shot on his truck. ran 12.? somthing.. i think his plans are head, cam and turbo next..
As for swaping them i wouldnt, main reason is that 8.1 is heavy. And for the money you would spend you could build that 6.0.
Our 6.0L sucks out of the hole then pulls well from 4000-6000 rpms. The 8.1L pulls like a raped ape from ideal to about 3800 rpms.
Raler makes a head and cam package. good for around 150hp and 150lbtq. but is $6500 bucks.. However if there claims are true that wold make you have 470hp and 600lbtq.
I can tell you that you will have a major traction problem. I was drining my friends 8.1 yesterday with 3K trailer on it. i drove it same way i do our 6.0 and the 8.1 would leave out of red lights with the rear tires spinning
I like both motor, just no one has pushed that far. I think tierod had the heads and 200 shot on his truck. ran 12.? somthing.. i think his plans are head, cam and turbo next..
As for swaping them i wouldnt, main reason is that 8.1 is heavy. And for the money you would spend you could build that 6.0.
#15
Baltimore Whore
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From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
[QUOTE=Kerr;3887378]the 8.1L just makes retarded amount of tq. hp is the same, and they dont revv as high.
Our 6.0L sucks out of the hole then pulls well from 4000-6000 rpms. The 8.1L pulls like a raped ape from ideal to about 3800 rpms.
Raler makes a head and cam package. good for around 150hp and 150lbtq. but is $6500 bucks.. However if there claims are true that wold make you have 470hp and 600lbtq.
Not trying to be a dick but it is http://www.raylarengine.com/ they do alot of marine apps and do make big power, but also for big bucks.
John
Our 6.0L sucks out of the hole then pulls well from 4000-6000 rpms. The 8.1L pulls like a raped ape from ideal to about 3800 rpms.
Raler makes a head and cam package. good for around 150hp and 150lbtq. but is $6500 bucks.. However if there claims are true that wold make you have 470hp and 600lbtq.
Not trying to be a dick but it is http://www.raylarengine.com/ they do alot of marine apps and do make big power, but also for big bucks.
John
#16
Lol... i suck at spelling.
They are awesome in off shore race boats, but you can get away with stuff becuase the water helps with a lot of stuff.
I just sold a car so im on the hunt for a 8100 in a big way... But im pickey. I want a black on gray suburban, 4x4, 4:10's with black carpet instead of tan, and i want the lift gate instead of barn doors. i dont want much lol..
Some one told me the 8.1 is only 600 lighter than the D max. something to think about in a 1500 series truck.
They are awesome in off shore race boats, but you can get away with stuff becuase the water helps with a lot of stuff.
I just sold a car so im on the hunt for a 8100 in a big way... But im pickey. I want a black on gray suburban, 4x4, 4:10's with black carpet instead of tan, and i want the lift gate instead of barn doors. i dont want much lol..
Some one told me the 8.1 is only 600 lighter than the D max. something to think about in a 1500 series truck.
#17
Baltimore Whore
iTrader: (95)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,820
Likes: 2
From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
Lol... i suck at spelling.
They are awesome in off shore race boats, but you can get away with stuff becuase the water helps with a lot of stuff.
I just sold a car so im on the hunt for a 8100 in a big way... But im pickey. I want a black on gray suburban, 4x4, 4:10's with black carpet instead of tan, and i want the lift gate instead of barn doors. i dont want much lol..
Some one told me the 8.1 is only 600 lighter than the D max. something to think about in a 1500 series truck.
They are awesome in off shore race boats, but you can get away with stuff becuase the water helps with a lot of stuff.
I just sold a car so im on the hunt for a 8100 in a big way... But im pickey. I want a black on gray suburban, 4x4, 4:10's with black carpet instead of tan, and i want the lift gate instead of barn doors. i dont want much lol..
Some one told me the 8.1 is only 600 lighter than the D max. something to think about in a 1500 series truck.
Yah the water helps, but you can't run the compression on the water in alot of spots due to the lack of good octane gas, but yess they do make bad *** stuff. Go to offshoreonly.com and look in the classifieds under motors, there has been a few of them in there for cheap, complete, also the maring motors have a forged crank exc in them
John
#18
6.0L to 8.1L in 1500 1/2 ton
Even though about 95% of you are telling me its not worth it, I am still kind of wanting to go with an 8.1 just to be different. The 496 I found off of a ~2002 Yukon for $1900 is very tempting...only 53K miles and comes with 6month warranty.
Do you know what else I'll need to complete the swap???
Does it require a new harness? I know the engine harness will be different, but will it plug in to my existing main wiring harness??
Will this project be relatively easy to moderate compared to when I switched the 5.3 to a 6.0??
Will Power Steering, A/C, etc be a pain in the ***?
Will I need to upgrade the front suspension (stronger springs, etc)?
Does anyone know if anyone has done this??
Do you know what else I'll need to complete the swap???
Does it require a new harness? I know the engine harness will be different, but will it plug in to my existing main wiring harness??
Will this project be relatively easy to moderate compared to when I switched the 5.3 to a 6.0??
Will Power Steering, A/C, etc be a pain in the ***?
Will I need to upgrade the front suspension (stronger springs, etc)?
Does anyone know if anyone has done this??
#19
6.0 Ordered
Alright, I had a stroke of wisdom and bought a Re-Man 6.0L for $1500 with 3yr/100K Mile Warranty. No 8.1 this time around.
I'll switch my cam into the re-man 6.0 if the cam is okay.
I wanted to re-build but this is the fastest option to get my truck back running again.
I got the core charge down to only $150.00 on the blown motor so I'm gonna keep the core and start building a 408 over time. It'll work out good, now I'll have 2 motors (1 in progress on a stand with about $1000 to start and 1 in the truck running).
Thank you for all your input.
I need to start researching what I want for the re-build.
What are the best online stores for rotating assemblies and the motor components I'll need???
I looked at the Sponsors' sites and had trouble finding descent deals...almost retail prices.
I'll switch my cam into the re-man 6.0 if the cam is okay.
I wanted to re-build but this is the fastest option to get my truck back running again.
I got the core charge down to only $150.00 on the blown motor so I'm gonna keep the core and start building a 408 over time. It'll work out good, now I'll have 2 motors (1 in progress on a stand with about $1000 to start and 1 in the truck running).
Thank you for all your input.
I need to start researching what I want for the re-build.
What are the best online stores for rotating assemblies and the motor components I'll need???
I looked at the Sponsors' sites and had trouble finding descent deals...almost retail prices.
#20
I dont know what else you would need. I do know the 8.1 have a different fuel system and i think they are drive by wire or something is different in how the gas pedal is connected to the motor.
$2K would get you a long way in doing a stroker kit. Ive got to twi friend with head and cam vettes making almost 500whp out that 6.0L.
bore the block, ( truck blocks are stronger) then buy a good set of rods then head and cam. Make what the 8.1L has at the crank at the wheels in your truck.
ALso the 8.1L in the trucks have the allison, suburbans have the 4L80EHD. So im not sure how the trans would talk to the big motor.
$2K would get you a long way in doing a stroker kit. Ive got to twi friend with head and cam vettes making almost 500whp out that 6.0L.
bore the block, ( truck blocks are stronger) then buy a good set of rods then head and cam. Make what the 8.1L has at the crank at the wheels in your truck.
ALso the 8.1L in the trucks have the allison, suburbans have the 4L80EHD. So im not sure how the trans would talk to the big motor.