INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

700 hp cam shaft...sound good?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-30-2008, 08:53 AM
  #31  
Banned
iTrader: (1)
 
7845's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Spoolin
I like...actually LOVE the way my truck drives as a DD. But as we all are guilty of doing, we get antsy and want to play with things that are fine the way they are. Know what I mean.
I'm just ready for something different. I raced a cammed, intake, exhaust, LT's and tuned C6 tonight and kept up with him no problem...had we had more room I'm sure I could of pulled on him. Like I said it runs strong, just want to do something a bit different and see what else I can pull from this set-up, without compromising the drive ability of the truck.

Tonight I tried to do a burnout for a photoshoot with my big brother and some friends with SS's and I couldn't do a burnout to save my life...get sideways at 70mph...sure no prob!
What's hurting me down low is a few things, gears, 4L80E, Vic jr., cam, LT's, and my boost controller. The biggest of them all I would say is my 3.42's. 2 weeks ago with my 4.10's I was able to do a burnout(albeit I had to rock the truck a little with the brakes). Tonight...Nada. The vic jr. hurts but Thunder550 has the same one and he's fine.

And your right there are some mismatched parts but not as many as you'd think, just a few and they happen to be big ones really, and that was my fault for being a newb when I started this build.




Definitely good advice and from my experiences I too agree 100%, it should be posted somewhere were newbs can see it. But I'm way to far into the game to heed that kinda advice! Then again we have a tendancy to learn from our own mistakes and not from others mistakes, hence why I put my hand on the kettle AFTER my mom told me not too!
Blownchevy has a similar saying but like I told him...too late now!
yea you do got some things holding you back. i didnt even know you had Lts, is your exhaust all wrapped to help with heat and spool? wrapping the exhaust will show impressive results. spool time will increase just by keeping heat in the pipes. didnt know you had the 80e. that also is killing ya. as for the vic jr on Chris truck. he also has more cubes but again his setup is different then yours. not a rear mount and cam choice. i still dont like the vic jr intake for anything really. ive seen way to many combos make huge power im talking 4 digits to wheels with the factory style intakes. NA i see cars making huge numbers with factory style intakes.

with your combo i would change a few things but thats just my prefernce now for your idea on what works and what you want is different then what i woudl do, so i wont say or try to force my theory,opinion apond you. good luck with getting things sorted out
Old 08-30-2008, 10:45 AM
  #32  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
Stoichiometric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Way out there
Posts: 2,199
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Wilde Racing
more flat and peak sooner.

I have the perfect cam for you..

218 215 on a 115 +4 with about 575-600 lift....
Originally Posted by Spoolin
LOL...it falls within all the criteria I was looking for!
Is that your old cam? If it is I'll try it out just to see what she'll do on my truck! It at least sounds interesting! Is that lift .575 on the intake and .600 exh? or the other way around? I was aiming at a smaller lift on the exhaust...
He meant between 575 and 600 lift on both lobes. I know someone with that cam and it seems to run pretty well.
Old 08-30-2008, 11:48 AM
  #33  
I AM A MOTHERF*CKER
iTrader: (1)
 
TurboBerserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,132
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

You could also just retard the cam you own. First - mine is straight up with no advance ground into it, so you could retard your cam 4* and probably do a lot a better. if that's not enough, you could try another 4*.

Yeah, it's a lot of work, and you'd be doing the same work as a cam swap, BUT you don't have to buy a new cam

The not being able to make boost on the line makes me think something else might be up -- or it could just be the advance plus lower cubes. I could make as more boost than the brakes could hold with a GT70 single on there and the same cam -- but in a 408.


BTW, don't you have a GT76 on there? There's no way that will hit full boost by 2500rpm in an sts set up. My GT70 on the 408 was 3200 (or maybe 3500) rpm. If you're just talking when boost starts, fair enough, but I wouldn't worry too much about having a cam that matches when the boost starts -- full boost, sure, but with a 76 on a 370, I'd think full boost would be pretty close to 4k rpm to begin with.


Looking at your dyno graph, it looks like your turbo starts kicking at 3600 rpm and goes full at 4k-ish. It looks like the turbo starts to fall off around 5200rpm. The turbo is definitely not doing anything big for you at 2500ish. Having said that, if your cam added more low end, you'd get to the turbo quicker for sure. I wouldn't do a 2500-5000 cam personally. I might change out the 4k-7k cam in favor of a better cam for say 3500-6000rpm.

All that exhaust housing is going to do for you is change the spool characteristics and help eliminate exhaust pressure (or add to it). What's your current housing? Is this a P-trim GT76 from STS or ??

Last edited by TurboBerserker; 08-30-2008 at 11:58 AM.
Old 08-30-2008, 11:59 AM
  #34  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
 
vanillagorilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Arizona Bay
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yeah, that cam is way to big for a 2100rpm stall. I had no idea you had a converter that tight. I don't think gears are to blame just yet. I've pulled better 60fts than you with higher gears and a 4.8. You do have to build boost to turn them over, but you should be able to do it a lot easier with a 370.

From your graph, another problem looks like you're not making full boost until 4000rpm, but it does ramp up quickly. If you want low end tq that's probably not a good thing. That coupled with the cam's power band is probably why your hp/tq numbers look damn near like a shot of n2o. I think the biggest issue is the cam and the tight stall and the other lack of low end comes from the fact that the turbo is 15ft away.
Old 08-30-2008, 12:13 PM
  #35  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (26)
 
kbracing96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Oakland, OR
Posts: 9,485
Received 30 Likes on 28 Posts
Default

I have the fix for your no low end boost problem



Old 08-30-2008, 02:16 PM
  #36  
I AM A MOTHERF*CKER
iTrader: (1)
 
TurboBerserker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,132
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by kbracing96
I have the fix for your no low end boost problem



What are the specs on that cam?






Old 08-30-2008, 02:20 PM
  #37  
Banned
iTrader: (1)
 
7845's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by TurboBerserker
What are the specs on that cam?






morethen you can handle pal!!! front mount lol
Old 08-30-2008, 02:34 PM
  #38  
GFYS and STFU
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
Spoolin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Here and sometimes there too.
Posts: 13,870
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TurboBerserker
The not being able to make boost on the line makes me think something else might be up -- or it could just be the advance plus lower cubes. I could make as more boost than the brakes could hold with a GT70 single on there and the same cam -- but in a 408.
I can build about 4psi if I stand on it long enough. Just don't have enough low end to push any further.

Originally Posted by TurboBerserker
BTW, don't you have a GT76 on there? ... if your cam added more low end, you'd get to the turbo quicker for sure. I wouldn't do a 2500-5000 cam personally...
All that exhaust housing is going to do for you is change the spool characteristics and help eliminate exhaust pressure (or add to it). What's your current housing? Is this a P-trim GT76 from STS or ??
STS GT-76 with a .68 A/R housing is what I have right now. That is why on my graph you see the turbo start to die off when it does, it's more the A/R housing than anything else. Turbo's rated for 950 hp, so it has more in it.
Originally Posted by TurboBerserker
... if your cam added more low end, you'd get to the turbo quicker for sure. I wouldn't do a 2500-5000 cam personally...
That's all I'm trying to do actually. Give the engine a torquier cam, and hopefully it will lower to spool time. Just by the fact it has more torque down low will increase the power under curve which is all I'm looking to do.
Old 08-30-2008, 02:35 PM
  #39  
GFYS and STFU
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
Spoolin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Here and sometimes there too.
Posts: 13,870
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
Yeah, that cam is way to big for a 2100rpm stall. I had no idea you had a converter that tight. I don't think gears are to blame just yet. I've pulled better 60fts than you with higher gears and a 4.8. You do have to build boost to turn them over, but you should be able to do it a lot easier with a 370.

From your graph, another problem looks like you're not making full boost until 4000rpm, but it does ramp up quickly. If you want low end tq that's probably not a good thing. That coupled with the cam's power band is probably why your hp/tq numbers look damn near like a shot of n2o. I think the biggest issue is the cam and the tight stall and the other lack of low end comes from the fact that the turbo is 15ft away.
Stall is a 2600 Yank...unless it's really really really tight or I got sent the wrong one.
Old 08-30-2008, 03:01 PM
  #40  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
 
vanillagorilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Arizona Bay
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Have you checked for exhaust leaks? What boost controller do you have, and how is it controlling the wg. I thought you posted something about a 2100rpm converter. Either way, 2600 is too tight for that cam too. You should be able to build way more that 4psi too. That's bad even for a rear mount. Your cam has 3 deg of overlap, which isn't that bad for boost. Even at low rpm it's not bleeding off too much boost. I think it's because it's lazy down low, and your truck is pushing against a tight converter. From 2600rpm-4000rpm your truck is probably real lazy. Then from 4000-6000 its a monster. That must be why you only race from a roll. Problem at the track is you launch at 2600-ish and you have to push through 2000rpm with low boost to get to its sweet spot. Then, 4000-6000 is over so fast, your into 2nd before you know it, but back at 3200-3500rpm. I had the same issues with the T56 and boost.

If you love your converter, then change the cam, if you love the cam, then change the converter and ex. A/R and plan on spinning it higher than 6000rpm.

Last edited by vanillagorilla; 08-30-2008 at 03:07 PM.


Quick Reply: 700 hp cam shaft...sound good?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:27 AM.