all right dammit
#11
Originally Posted by revelie5
Duration at .500"
219/222
Intake lift 564
Exhaust lift 551
Lobe separation 112
Centerline 108 degrees
advance the cam 4 degrees.
rmp range 1800 - 6200
219/222
Intake lift 564
Exhaust lift 551
Lobe separation 112
Centerline 108 degrees
advance the cam 4 degrees.
rmp range 1800 - 6200
#12
I don't think you'll have any problems with that converter and that cam. I run a 210/218 .551 112lsa cam and a 2600 Fuddle torque converter, in MY heavy *** SUV. My converter actually tightened up after a few weeks and now it feels just like stock, even if I give it a good nudge from a stop. However, If I nail it, it flashes to 2600-2800 and smokes those big *** tires. I think you will enjoy a converter. I say put it in for sure. Shift kit would be fine IMO but if you're willing to tear into the tranny and do major upgrades, go for it.
#13
The guy could be being very honest with you......To his knowledge. Like Beau said, the sounds of it this guy is old school or maybe he just doesn't know what he's talking about. There is a big difference between old school carb motors and the Gen III fuel injected engines that we have and they react differently from the old motors.
I will speak from experience, in my 04 crew cab I had, I was running a comp 216/220 with less lift than the cam you have and a 2500 stall converter and I had always wished that I was running a 3000. If you go less, you will regret it. trust me.
I will speak from experience, in my 04 crew cab I had, I was running a comp 216/220 with less lift than the cam you have and a 2500 stall converter and I had always wished that I was running a 3000. If you go less, you will regret it. trust me.
#14
I had the same thing around here, I went to 3 different tranny shops the first 2 said that putting a shift kit in a 60E was going to blow it up and refused to do it. The third guy was like hell yea, a shift kit is the best thing you can do for the tranny. I was going to just install the regular Transgo shift kit, and he was like no-way, you need to go with the HD kit. So I did, and put in the vette servo and overdrive servo. Now the truck shifts great and I have had no problems. With the shift kit and converter I picked up about 3 tenths in the 1/8th.
#15
Banned
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,151
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From: From Houma La. Living n Ellisville Miss.
Originally Posted by revelie5
Went to a guy who owns a transmission shop and also races to talk about a shift kit and get advice on what to do with my transmission to increase the durability with the extra hp and torque from a cam and other mods. Also talked about a torque converter which I have in hand. It is a Yank 3000 tt. Gave him the specs on my cam and he thought it was too much cam. Here are the specs:
Duration at .500"
219/222
Intake lift 564
Exhaust lift 551
Lobe separation 112
Centerline 108 degrees
advance the cam 4 degrees.
rmp range 1800 - 6200
The cam is a custom grind cam from Cam Motion. I talked to a rep at Cam Motion and told him my objectives. I wanted to move some torque in the lower rpm bands. The guy at the transmission shop said one of his concerns is the intake lift and exhaust lift being too high which raised his concern about the valve to piston clearance (he has nothing to gain from me getting another cam or going with this one). With out knowing that Cam Motion said the cam should be advanced 4 degrees, the the tranny guy said with those specs I should advance the cam 4-6 degrees.
He said a problem with alot of guys is they end of putting too much of something and end up not getting the most performance from your vehicle. Right now I have basic bolt ons (shorty headers, volant intake, corsa cat back) with a custom tune 60% tm removed. Will be installing 4.10 gears very soon.
He advised not going with a shift kit. Basically a shift kit only makes your transmission shift harder. He said since I have the 4L60E transmission, it would be better to take out the tranny and swap out some parts to make it more durable (now, he does have something to gain there). He did not think a stall converter would be a good idea since I am wanting more low end torque. He said that if I had a cam with the rpm range from 2500-6500 then a stall would be a good idea but the the rpm range beginning at 1800, he thought a 3000 stall would be too high. I think he is being honest as he could install the torque converter and charge me more $$$$. He thinks it is not needed for my set up. Anyway, alot of guys in here say a stall converter is a great mod.
So, anyone with some "extensive" knowledge on cams, trasmissions and stalls would like to reply to add to the.
Duration at .500"
219/222
Intake lift 564
Exhaust lift 551
Lobe separation 112
Centerline 108 degrees
advance the cam 4 degrees.
rmp range 1800 - 6200
The cam is a custom grind cam from Cam Motion. I talked to a rep at Cam Motion and told him my objectives. I wanted to move some torque in the lower rpm bands. The guy at the transmission shop said one of his concerns is the intake lift and exhaust lift being too high which raised his concern about the valve to piston clearance (he has nothing to gain from me getting another cam or going with this one). With out knowing that Cam Motion said the cam should be advanced 4 degrees, the the tranny guy said with those specs I should advance the cam 4-6 degrees.
He said a problem with alot of guys is they end of putting too much of something and end up not getting the most performance from your vehicle. Right now I have basic bolt ons (shorty headers, volant intake, corsa cat back) with a custom tune 60% tm removed. Will be installing 4.10 gears very soon.
He advised not going with a shift kit. Basically a shift kit only makes your transmission shift harder. He said since I have the 4L60E transmission, it would be better to take out the tranny and swap out some parts to make it more durable (now, he does have something to gain there). He did not think a stall converter would be a good idea since I am wanting more low end torque. He said that if I had a cam with the rpm range from 2500-6500 then a stall would be a good idea but the the rpm range beginning at 1800, he thought a 3000 stall would be too high. I think he is being honest as he could install the torque converter and charge me more $$$$. He thinks it is not needed for my set up. Anyway, alot of guys in here say a stall converter is a great mod.
So, anyone with some "extensive" knowledge on cams, trasmissions and stalls would like to reply to add to the.
alright dammit. a shift kit is not just to make the tran shift harder.u get the hrader shift from it ingauging faster to the next gear that is what gives you the fell.it sends more fluide and not pressure to each set of clutches i can make a trans shift harder just by dropping the pan and tunning the line pressure up not the right way to do things install a shift kit and a super servio and their r a few other tricks i do.
and yes the stall will help u he has to rember that u r pushing a 4000 + truck not a 2800+ car i would go with a verter just not the one u have chosen
they r a number of cams they work but frist u need to know were r u going to stop and if u r worryed about gas mileage.
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