i want to drop my pan and install them but i was told a rebalance is required for the crank. Is this true? The Kaytech are the same weight and do not require you to re balance the crank. Can any one answer this for me?????

 

i know of about 3 people that have done this, and i am fixing to, hadnt heard of having to rebalance the crank!

 

Why are so many people replacing rod bolts lately? What's wrong with the stockers? I think you're playing with dynamite messing around with something that isn't already broke.

 

The rod bolts are a huge weak link in the 6.0 Bottom end. I have a cammed twin turbo setup and im pushing the stock bottom end to its limits. by installing new rod bolts it fixes a weak link which could lead to catostrophic failure. Alot of guys a spinning these motors well above 6000 rpm. The stock rods bolt are not strong enough to handle the weight of the piston moving at that speed.

 

No rebalancing is necessary.
Pull one out at a time on each rod and torque to spec.
Be sure to remove the stock inner metal tube before inserting and installing new bolt, you will know what I'm talking about when you remove a stock bolt.


Rod bolts are a 100.00 upgrade I recomend to everyone that wants additional insurance on their setup.


Derek

 

So what is everyone's opinion of ARP vs. Katech rod bolts? Don't the Katechs supposedly just bolt back in place without any modification?

 

I like the Katechs, if I were to replace my rod bolts that's what I'd use. I've never heard of needing a rebalance with the ARP's, but I have heard of rod caps warping with them (not sure how true that is, or if it was installer error). I've read that you have to remove the sleeves for the ARP's, but I think that the Katech's just swap right in...(I'm not 100% sure so don't take my word as Gospel, it was a long time ago when I did my research)

 

I still don't understand your logic. A connecting rod bolt's purpose is to hold the rod's big end "halves" together. The only stress on the rod BOLTS is for pulling the piston away from top dead center. The only way to break a rod bolt is from excessive reciprocating WEIGHT. Unless your spinning north of 7K RPM's I wouldn't worry about it. Even if the engine produced 1,000 HP at 5K RPM's, it still wouldn't break a rod bolt. It's under high RPM application where failure occurs. Even then, unless you have an old lsx motor, the newer style bolts are good up to 7K RPM's. You're wasting your time/effort and taking a huge risk. I don't know of many guys who can accuratly use a torque wrench on their backs, under a truck, facing upwards with oil dripping on their face and going at an angle. Just remember, once a rod cap is torqued down and that bearing has conformed to the shape of the rod journal, if you loosen a bolt and move the cap even a ****'s hair, you're going to have a bearing failure. I promise you. I think you should leave it alone if you knew what was good for you. But hey, it's your motor.

 

you seem to know you stuff. I dont understand how you wouldnt want to stregthen a stock setup for the added insurance. The LQ4 is a stout motor but has a few weak areas. Im just correcting that weakness. I most likely am going to pull the motor out to do this. so laying on my back is not an issue. Under stress the stockers are shearing and shitting the pistons. Im putting 13psi to my motor and spinning to 6500 rpm. Not to mention the possibility of detonation. Again its just for added stregth and insurance. Btw after talking to some people i may just build the 370 anyway.

 

you might as well as build a 370 since your taking the motor out any ways