Im running ARP2000 in my 408 with Eagle Rods without problems 15psi and spun as high as 7000rpm.

 

Yea, I haven't heard of any problems with the bolts themselves, just with the factory rods after installing the bolts...something about rod cap warpage resulting in smoked bearings and rod knocks. There were some threads on Tech about it a while back, but from the feedback that I'm getting here, I'll bet that the problems that I read about were installer error

Thanks for the input, keep it coming!

 

I have them in also without resizing in two motors now. If you do them the way Kaltechs instructions read you will no problem with me. Kaltechs aren't mystical they just wrote idiot proof instructions...

 

Do you have the Katechs or ARP's? I didn't think that the Katechs were mystical, just frickin expensive!


*EDIT* Just checked Katech's website, $199 for the rod bolts...wow that's a lot of scratch, but they appear to be the strongest available with 260,000 psi yield strength

 

260,000!?, overkill! arp will work for ya, heck even the 180,000 psi bolts will work for $69. I got summit to price match SDPC price, and they beat it by a little. I payed around $90 shipped for the arp2000 bolts.


you want me to do a clean write up on how to install ARP Rod bolts?

 

Yea man I agree, total overkill, especially for my application, my setup isn't going to be wild by any means...heck, until I examined the block and realized that it needed to come apart I was just gonna use the stockers.

A clean write up would be great man, I already asked the higher-ups if they could make your other thread a sticky either here or in the GM section, so if they do, we can just replace it with the new one, thanks man!

 

I knew I shoulda got some LS6 springs from SDPC.

Evil SS 2006, as far as your opinion that Katechs were made to be utilized in the C6R, with the titanium connecting rods spinning 9000rpms for hours on end, not a stock GM powdered rod as a bandaid to fix spun rod bearings. I read where P&M did a LS7 hybrid & they're replaced the stock Ti rods w/. some steel Olivers for strength. Just thought I'd throw that out there since u mentioned spinning the Ti rods.

1969x11, if you've been running the $69 versions for 20,000 or so miles with no problems & have put in 3 or 4 sets of these w/. no issues, you're only gettin 5K miles a set on em?
I think u meant you've used in a few builds. I hope.

fastrt, I might have to do that match SD price. Not necessarily on rod bolts tho.

You have 2 sets of LS6 springs & 1 truck.

Use your power & influence.
I too agree if a problem, it woulda surfaced by now. BH3, overbuild for the future, not underbuild. If ya try to scrimp, you'll be kickin yourself later when if comes apart (& not by u disassembling it). You're wise to do it now, while you're in there.
BH3, it used to be there were 3 levels of ARP's, the ARP2000's were the pick of the litter. It's been awhile since I've looked, but they used to have a Wave-loc too.

 

BTW, up til now, I'd never heard of any issue w/. ARP anything. Other than the price. I'd attribute it to install error, but I'm on the outside looking in. I have to know circumstances & engine builders rep. I think ARP anything is the ****, & I really would hate to pay Katech price on a product that does the same thing & for less. That's just me. ARP are what I'll use on another project. You just better hope that I don't need em on my LS motor in my truck, cause it won't be for a 5.3.

 

Yea, but I have 2 engines

I made fastrt's thread a sticky, as I now have the power to do so

You know that I'm not going to skimp Tom, but I don't want to spend $200 for a set of Katech rod bolts if the ARP's work fine for $69-$99

I wonder what happened to the third level of ARP rod bolts?

 

See my 2nd comment about spending $200 on Katechs.

If they no longer carry 3 lines, they probably kept the most expensive version & the cheap one.