ARP Rod Bolt Roll Call
07-11-2010, 10:49 AM
#22
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I am running arp 2000 bolts on my motor but they are on eagle rods too..
I bought a blown up ls1 shortblock a few years ago it had arp 2000 bolts on stock rods/pistons and I guess it spun a bearing and threw a rod..
I bought a blown up ls1 shortblock a few years ago it had arp 2000 bolts on stock rods/pistons and I guess it spun a bearing and threw a rod..
07-11-2010, 03:08 PM
#24
I know everyone knows that there are differences in the bolts and that the more expensive versions are also in this case stronger, but I’m wondering if most folks are just setting back and reading the tensile strength of the bolts and trying to determine what that means to them. While just about any of the aftermarket bolts available, including the lowest grade from ARP will work for probably 95% of us, actually the factory bolts from 2000 and up will also work reliably in most of the street builds that are still using stock rods, but given the price difference for the basic ARP bolts there is no reason not to upgrade. Upgrading the rod bolts never hurts a thing as long as they are installed properly and the rods are not distorted from the installation. However does it really do any good for the motor or your wallet to have bolts that are capable of handling a 1000hp or more, when rods are really only good to about 450hp or so. Yes some have pushed parts in their motors well past the recommended ratings, but were talking about being safe here. Typical entry level I Beam rods with basic ARP 8740 bolts which are also generally larger in diameter than the stock pieces will have somewhere around a 600hp rating and some high end I Beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts may handle 1000hp or more. While a good deal of the additional strength comes from the larger bolts most aftermarket rods are equipped with, typically 7/16” vs 9mm stock rod bolts, you can get sort of an idea of an range of what the bolts can safely handle. You just need to remember that rod bolts or even the rods themselves are note rated by HP and it’s the load they see that kill them.
Stock 2000 + or GMPP = 450HP or so
ARP 8740 180,000 w/7/16” bolts = 700 to 750HP
ARP 2000 220,000 psi tensile w/7/16” bolts = 900 to 1500HP
Katech H-11 260,000 psi tensile 9mm
Per Katech, their bolts were actually engineered for replacements in the GM ASA series race motors and are advertised as being the best you can get and fitting production connecting rods without having to re-hone them to size.
Stock 2000 + or GMPP = 450HP or so
ARP 8740 180,000 w/7/16” bolts = 700 to 750HP
ARP 2000 220,000 psi tensile w/7/16” bolts = 900 to 1500HP
Katech H-11 260,000 psi tensile 9mm
Per Katech, their bolts were actually engineered for replacements in the GM ASA series race motors and are advertised as being the best you can get and fitting production connecting rods without having to re-hone them to size.
07-11-2010, 03:54 PM
#25
I know everyone knows that there are differences in the bolts and that the more expensive versions are also in this case stronger, but I’m wondering if most folks are just setting back and reading the tensile strength of the bolts and trying to determine what that means to them. While just about any of the aftermarket bolts available, including the lowest grade from ARP will work for probably 95% of us, actually the factory bolts from 2000 and up will also work reliably in most of the street builds that are still using stock rods, but given the price difference for the basic ARP bolts there is no reason not to upgrade. Upgrading the rod bolts never hurts a thing as long as they are installed properly and the rods are not distorted from the installation. However does it really do any good for the motor or your wallet to have bolts that are capable of handling a 1000hp or more, when rods are really only good to about 450hp or so. Yes some have pushed parts in their motors well past the recommended ratings, but were talking about being safe here. Typical entry level I Beam rods with basic ARP 8740 bolts which are also generally larger in diameter than the stock pieces will have somewhere around a 600hp rating and some high end I Beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts may handle 1000hp or more. While a good deal of the additional strength comes from the larger bolts most aftermarket rods are equipped with, typically 7/16” vs 9mm stock rod bolts, you can get sort of an idea of an range of what the bolts can safely handle. You just need to remember that rod bolts or even the rods themselves are note rated by HP and it’s the load they see that kill them.
Stock 2000 + or GMPP = 450HP or so
ARP 8740 180,000 w/7/16” bolts = 700 to 750HP
ARP 2000 220,000 psi tensile w/7/16” bolts = 900 to 1500HP
Katech H-11 260,000 psi tensile 9mm
Per Katech, their bolts were actually engineered for replacements in the GM ASA series race motors and are advertised as being the best you can get and fitting production connecting rods without having to re-hone them to size.
Stock 2000 + or GMPP = 450HP or so
ARP 8740 180,000 w/7/16” bolts = 700 to 750HP
ARP 2000 220,000 psi tensile w/7/16” bolts = 900 to 1500HP
Katech H-11 260,000 psi tensile 9mm
Per Katech, their bolts were actually engineered for replacements in the GM ASA series race motors and are advertised as being the best you can get and fitting production connecting rods without having to re-hone them to size.
07-11-2010, 04:49 PM
#26
Thanks Jarrod, good useful information as always. What rod bolts would you recommend on a build like mine? (NA LQ9, still not sure if they're the early rods or not, WCCH StageII heads, 224 or 220ish cam, no nitrous). Any need for upgrading the rods? I think that combo should yield about 475-500 crank hp, going by the other combos that I've seen, and what TrickFlow claims with their head/cam combos that are similar. Eventually, far down the road, I'd like to do a FAST LXrt intake, but that will probably be many years from now...
I do believe the ARP 8740 bolts are all you need as long as you’re basically freshening it up and sticking with the stock rods. Due to the fact you’re going to have your motor apart during this operation, it would be a good thing to have your rods checked for size and roundness after installing the new bolts, not to mention having them mag’d for cracks before even attempting to use them. In your case there really isn’t any reason not to.
07-12-2010, 12:53 AM
#28
