Cam Swap tools/parts list
#11
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Originally Posted by trucksnoobie
ARP bolt = better...thanks
As for the springs...if the LS6 are good to .570, and the cam that I intend to use lifts to .557, then I should be ok.
But, that being said, a 208/208 .557/.557 cam does seem as though it has a fast ramp rate. that is just from comparing duration and lift to other cams out there, this one seems to have a short duration and a good amount of lift = fast ramp rate.(i think)
I am not sure, but if the 5.3 is the same as the LS1, then the rocker ratio is 1.7 : 1. Going to 1.8s will change the max lift of the cam, while leaving the duration alone, increasing the ramp rate even more, taking it out of the relm of using LS6 springs? Right?
As for the springs...if the LS6 are good to .570, and the cam that I intend to use lifts to .557, then I should be ok.
But, that being said, a 208/208 .557/.557 cam does seem as though it has a fast ramp rate. that is just from comparing duration and lift to other cams out there, this one seems to have a short duration and a good amount of lift = fast ramp rate.(i think)
I am not sure, but if the 5.3 is the same as the LS1, then the rocker ratio is 1.7 : 1. Going to 1.8s will change the max lift of the cam, while leaving the duration alone, increasing the ramp rate even more, taking it out of the relm of using LS6 springs? Right?
#13
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You need a 8mm 3/8 drive 6 pt socket to BREAK to locktite on the rocker bolts. You need something to keep the crank from turning while removing and installing the crank pulley. I use a big chain wrench. Buy it in the plumbing dept at Sears or a a plumbers supply. You'll need to add some extra chain links because it is intended to hold 4" cast iron sewer pipe not an 8" crank pulley. I made my own cam remove/install handle. Welded a 2' long steel rod to a piece of 2" square flat stock into which I drilled holes for the cam sprocket bolts and dowel locator pin. Works great. I wouldn't do this job without installing an underdrive(ASP). A double row adjustable timing set is a good idea too while you have it apart. You're only looking at $300 between the pulley and chain. Well worth it since you'll already have the motor down anyway. When your removing the pulley I use a BIG allen head cap screw in the crank bolt hole to convince the puller rod to stay centered. The cap screw forces the puller rod to be self-centering. The best puller is called Posi-Lock. They make using a 3 leg pulley a one man job. If you use one of the cheaper ones you end up feeling like you need 3 extra hands to keep the legs from flopping all over the place and oh yeah you have to get the puller rod centered and screwed in at the same time. A Posi-Lock ends all those problems.
Last edited by eallanboggs; 02-04-2007 at 12:59 AM.
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