1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

Eagle stroker cranks run in the mid 800s might as well get some more cubes while ur at it. I would go the 3.9 route also since you can spin it to the moon. Get the eagle rods there are literally TONS of people on tech with them and not a problem. The bolts are fine, you every heard of anyone having a rod bolt let loose that had ARPs? Not me. The other extra crap you need will be, new cam bearings(the block will be vatted and that will mar the originals), main bearings(unless you buy a rotating assembly package), ARP main studs AND head studs(nitrous will lift those head if you arent careful sotck heads have a THIN deck and hurt quench when spraying a big shot), stock oil pump ported and put a small shim in there(not worth paying someone else to do it or I can do one for you for cheap), cometic head gaskets(dont skimp on these big shots of nitrous will eat up a stock MLS gasket), while ur at it you need to swap to some different kind of intake(Im sure you already know the options out there).

How big a shot are you going to spray? That will make it alot easier to tell you what oyu can skimp on.

onebadrubi

the biggest it WILL see will be a 200 shot and that will be rare and far between. Probably just a 150 on average.

Yah I was thinkin about goin to the 3.9" crank last night, but what about durability wise? Am I goin to run into problems over goin with the forged 3.622 crank? Labor cost and building the motor shouldnt be any different....
Yes I will deff be goin with cometic gaskets
head studs
ARP everything I can get
Going to try and find somekind of bearing package to replace every bearing possible in the block, just to be safe
Probably gonna go with a ported ls2/6 oil pump

So if I did go with the 3.9" crank and eagle rods we still have pistons and then what cc heads to decide on. ONce agian I want this motor to be able to hold many shots of 150-200 but no more then 200.

Oh and btw this will most likely be going infront of a 4l80e, just for the durability.

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

Chech out the eagle rotating assemblies. They are about 2200 but they come with EVERYTHING to the shortblock working. Bearings, rings, wrist pins, locks, pistons, rods and crank, best of all the components are matched so there is no problem with them not going together right and it is already balanced so that saves you 150 in machine work right there. If you go with a longer crank then thats the way I would go. IMO, you are already doing all the hard stuff why not go ahead and gain some real cubes while ur at it. The crank will earn you 50hp atleast plus its stronger then the stocker. If you are only going to spray 200 then there isnt a need to go to Cometics, the stockers have held 15#s of boost a 300 shots before so I wouldnt worry about the xtra 150 for cometics. Do what you would like on the oil pump but its a waste of money IMO, there wasnt hardly any diff between my Thunder Racing ported LS6 pump that I paid 150 for and the stock 180K mile 5.3 pump I had. I would get a low mile oil pump, shim it, and port the inlet and call it good. In the book "How to build a high performance ls1/6" thats what they say to do and it seems to work well for everyone that has done it. You can get away with the 4032 alloy since you are spraying a "smaller" shot. I bet though you will end up hitting it with a 250 shot once or twice

onebadrubi

see when I start to look at the price of 2200 it makes me just want to go back and use the stock crank. I was likeing spending about 800-1000 before end of this year and within jan-feb having the rest of the shortblock parts ordered, or close to it maybe just short some bearings or hardware. Make sense?

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

I understand, budget, go the way you were talking about. Its the just the devil in all of us saying go bigger I couldnt resist the urge so I waited a couple extra months and bought the big stuff, but for what it seems you are trying to accomplish the stock crank should be able to get it done not to mention longer strokes wear pistons skirts out quicker. Sounds like what Rhino posted is the way to go. BTW Richard from WCCH can get you a damn good deal on ARP stuff.