Engine upgrade cost analysis
06-15-2006 | 08:42 PM
#12
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what a rush!
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Originally Posted by TurboBerserker
Is this to be paired with your radish? What CR are you shooting for?
won't yield much higher compression than I would have with the stock LQ4 pistons.
would raise my CR from 9.0-1 to 9.4-1
06-15-2006 | 08:49 PM
#13
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what a rush!
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Originally Posted by mjhoward
Align honing is not necessary, just overkill in my opinion. What I would do, pistons, rod bolts, digle berry hone to knock the glaze off, & balance. reasemble without polishing the crank or new bearings unless they look like they need it, probably not. just make sure the bearings go back in the same locations. Maybe if you get frisky find a set of pull-out lq9/ls2 rods. Just my .02.
FYI my 6.0 has used stock rod and main brgs out of 2 different engines. I checked the tolerances with a dial bore guage and mics of course. Polished the crank.
FYI my 6.0 has used stock rod and main brgs out of 2 different engines. I checked the tolerances with a dial bore guage and mics of course. Polished the crank.
06-15-2006 | 08:55 PM
#14
I'd suggest upping the CR to 10.1 ish (since you are ordering pistons anywya, it won't add to the cost). I'd do all the block clean up work you can afford -- for peace of mind if nothing else. You seem to be very methodical and detailed about your build as am I, and I'll tell you I skimped on a couple of things (lifters, chain, oil pump) that I know think about 4x per week...
Nothing wrong with letting the machine shop check the block and give you a list of what they think must be done, and what they would do on a budget if it were their ride, and what they'd do if it money was no object -- then you can cherry pick what you think is most important. Its also a good test of the shop imo
I agree with Mark on the polishing -- only do it if you must imo. You may also wanna call Joe Vinci and talk to him about mikronite and if it could be used for your build (pretty cheap metal treatment that's showing some astounding results -- like 19rwhp for treating the ring nad pinion...).
I know you mentioned budget, but look at my build to see how well I do with budget
Nothing wrong with letting the machine shop check the block and give you a list of what they think must be done, and what they would do on a budget if it were their ride, and what they'd do if it money was no object -- then you can cherry pick what you think is most important. Its also a good test of the shop imo
I agree with Mark on the polishing -- only do it if you must imo. You may also wanna call Joe Vinci and talk to him about mikronite and if it could be used for your build (pretty cheap metal treatment that's showing some astounding results -- like 19rwhp for treating the ring nad pinion...).
I know you mentioned budget, but look at my build to see how well I do with budget
06-15-2006 | 08:58 PM
#15
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what a rush!
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Originally Posted by TurboBerserker
I'd suggest upping the CR to 10.1 ish (since you are ordering pistons anywya, it won't add to the cost). I'd do all the block clean up work you can afford -- for peace of mind if nothing else. You seem to be very methodical and detailed about your build as am I, and I'll tell you I skimped on a couple of things (lifters, chain, oil pump) that I know think about 4x per week...
Nothing wrong with letting the machine shop check the block and give you a list of what they think must be done, and what they would do on a budget if it were their ride, and what they'd do if it money was no object -- then you can cherry pick what you think is most important. Its also a good test of the shop imo
I agree with Mark on the polishing -- only do it if you must imo. You may also wanna call Joe Vinci and talk to him about mikronite and if it could be used for your build (pretty cheap metal treatment that's showing some astounding results -- like 19rwhp for treating the ring nad pinion...).
I know you mentioned budget, but look at my build to see how well I do with budget
Nothing wrong with letting the machine shop check the block and give you a list of what they think must be done, and what they would do on a budget if it were their ride, and what they'd do if it money was no object -- then you can cherry pick what you think is most important. Its also a good test of the shop imo
I agree with Mark on the polishing -- only do it if you must imo. You may also wanna call Joe Vinci and talk to him about mikronite and if it could be used for your build (pretty cheap metal treatment that's showing some astounding results -- like 19rwhp for treating the ring nad pinion...).
I know you mentioned budget, but look at my build to see how well I do with budget
06-15-2006 | 09:51 PM
#18
Grippy, I know you said "minimal machine work"... but...
Changing from bolts to studs... you, IMO (along with my machinest), absolutely want to align hone. When building a shortblock I would align hone regardless. There are a few "since yer in there" procedures that are worth it...
I like JE pistons... never did me wrong with all the motors I have built. Diamond, Wiseco, and Mahle have also proven to be quality manu's...
I like Total Seal and JE file fit for forced induction... Total Seal is a very nice ring package. I have a buddy running a twin turbo setup in a C5 pushing 780 to the wheels and the Total Seal rings yield less than 3% leak down on all cylinders after several thousand hard miles.
Order your pistons with "standard" inch sizing rings instead of metric... you should save money on rings there. At least when I was building motors a little over a year ago the standard rings were much cheaper than the metric rings.
Cam bearings... Durabond
Bearings... some builders have had oil pressure issues after building shortblocks. Turns out that some main bearings (Clevite) have had some oil pressure issues due to main bearings having rather large oil paths (bleeding off pressure). I think Clevite has a handle on that now. Katech and Lingenfelter use Federal Mogul for mains (i.e. GM High Tech Performance April 06 issue pages 36-44)... two of the most trusted GENIII/IV engine builders, FYI.
Nitriding or Cryo treatment of rotating assembly parts is good insurance... although I have never done it.
One thing I would concentrate on is evaluating your budget versus obtaining the lightest rotating assembly winthin it. Eagle products are awesome... but not the lightest...
FWIW, balancing of the rotating assembly and/or verification of it is critical for a GENIII/IV engine...
Changing from bolts to studs... you, IMO (along with my machinest), absolutely want to align hone. When building a shortblock I would align hone regardless. There are a few "since yer in there" procedures that are worth it...
I like JE pistons... never did me wrong with all the motors I have built. Diamond, Wiseco, and Mahle have also proven to be quality manu's...
I like Total Seal and JE file fit for forced induction... Total Seal is a very nice ring package. I have a buddy running a twin turbo setup in a C5 pushing 780 to the wheels and the Total Seal rings yield less than 3% leak down on all cylinders after several thousand hard miles.
Order your pistons with "standard" inch sizing rings instead of metric... you should save money on rings there. At least when I was building motors a little over a year ago the standard rings were much cheaper than the metric rings.
Cam bearings... Durabond
Bearings... some builders have had oil pressure issues after building shortblocks. Turns out that some main bearings (Clevite) have had some oil pressure issues due to main bearings having rather large oil paths (bleeding off pressure). I think Clevite has a handle on that now. Katech and Lingenfelter use Federal Mogul for mains (i.e. GM High Tech Performance April 06 issue pages 36-44)... two of the most trusted GENIII/IV engine builders, FYI.
Nitriding or Cryo treatment of rotating assembly parts is good insurance... although I have never done it.
One thing I would concentrate on is evaluating your budget versus obtaining the lightest rotating assembly winthin it. Eagle products are awesome... but not the lightest...
FWIW, balancing of the rotating assembly and/or verification of it is critical for a GENIII/IV engine...
Last edited by billreid1@cox.net; 06-15-2006 at 10:00 PM.
06-15-2006 | 10:29 PM
#19
When you tear it down the high spots(wear spots on the bearings would tell you if you really need line honing. I have never line honed and never had a main bearing failure. Just check the tolerances close.
I polished my 6.0 crank mainly because I wanted the extra .0005" oil clearence it would give.
I polished my 6.0 crank mainly because I wanted the extra .0005" oil clearence it would give.
