00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

wow I've never heard of that problem. my bolt has been on and off about a dozen times. Never put loc tite on it either

good luck. Also it still takes heating the crank pulley to put it back on right? it doesnt just slide on?

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

When I put my pulley back on I used the old bolt to press the pulley on, then used the new bolt to tighten to spec. Well, spec is 250ftlbs, so I pulled with what I thought was equivalent.

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

you know its something like torque to 250, loosen and retighten to I wanna say like 50 ft lb? some one correct me on the second torque spec.

Just sayin

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Wouldnt that defeat the purpose of the type of bolt this is?

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

The crank bolt is a torque-to-yield fastener. Press on the damper and torque the old bolt up to 250 lb-ft. Then remove that bolt and throw it away-a new bolt is $3. Now torque the new bolt to 37 lb-ft and lock the engine to prevent it from turning. Then turn the crank bolt 140 degrees. You'll need a 11/42-inch drive breaker bar and a "cheater" to do this effectively. View Related Article

(from: http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ls1_en.../photo_10.html)

sorry thats when you take the old bolt out and install the new one, my bad...
However for the LS1 its torque to yield, like the crank journal bolts.

05RST2NV

iTrader: (4)

The ASP website says after the 250 retighten to 30lbs then 120 degrees.

616 of 933

iTrader: (1)

New bolt and it the pully is off get a under drive set

wkdivr

iTrader: (8)

The balancer has to be a press fit for it to work properly. Get a new bolt, spray brake parts cleaner in the hole to make sure nothing's in the threads. Torque the NEW bolt to 37ft lbs, THEN make a vertical mark on the balancer across the bolt at 12 o'clock. Tighten the bolt further to approx. 148degrees. That's about 1/3 of the way around, or about 4,or 5 o'clock. I think that's a little bit more than "tighten the **** out of it"

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

i think what happened is he didn't tighten it enough to seat it the first time and like zippy said it removed some metal. he said when he popped the hood he seen sparks the very first time this happened. now, we did the cam swap months ago and reused the bolt and i personally did the tightening and it never had an issue. this time he removed all this to advance the cam, he reinstalled the bolt and balancer and i think he didn't understand when i tried to explain to him the importance of the torque on it. now ever since it did the first spark spin slip thing it won't stay on. so a new balancer and bolt? how much are the underdrive ones?

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

well we got a new under-drive crank pulley. its a no go i can slide it right on. so doesn't anybody have a pin kit jig and bolt? i can come up with pins but i need the jig and bolt. you can pm me. it would be great if someone in Maryland had one.